Forgin' virgin

[Heat-Beat-Treat-Repeat]

Hello there, I didn't see any topics about introducing yourself and getting started on the forums. If I missed it please let me know.
More than making knives right now I'm trying to make a shop, gather some essentials and think about a "routine" that will satisfy my personal needs.
I'm totally new to the hobby, I'm starting with anything and everything that I can cobble together. I've been a homeowner for 26 years so I have a little to work with. Primarily I have an air tank to use for my forge. I want to take the time before I cut on it, to get my burner built, so they match up correctly.
So this is where I'm at, "burner 101". YouTube seems to have value. I think that I have the fundamentals of a burner understood. Number one, no leaks, number two, double check for leaks, number three, [regulate] the gas pressure, use a [gauge] in order to know the pressure, a [needle valve] in order to introduce a specific amount of pressurized gas into the system and finally an [orifice] of the proper size in order for optimal.... delivery? ....mixture?
This is where I'm a little lost to be honest. Because with a [regulated], [gauged] and [gated] system I would think that the orifice isn't even necessary? or at least crucial? It's a forced air burner BTW. Perhaps only the naturally aspirated burners rely more heavily on a proper orifice opening?
Also it seems crucial to have a solid air-to-fuel mixture within the system before ignition. I installed into the pipe an Irwin 3/4" augur bit (with the hex shaft cut off and ground to a point) just after the (potential/future) [orifice] assuming that it will create good turbulence. Plus a 90° angle, a flared tip and a perforated plate at the opening.

TL;DR
Hello, I'm new here....
On a forced air forge burner, if I am using a regulator, a gauge, and a good needle valve is it crucial, important or even necessary to have an accurate orifice at the point of delivery?
-thanks
HBTR.

 

[kuraki]

An orifice isn't necessary. On my blown burner, the gas comes in through a regular pipe nipple that's T'd into my 2" blower pipe. That's it.

 

[Lieblad]

We use blown gassers what could be thought as crude science class combustion experiments and dont need the precision of a venturi. Using mig tips as orfice. Dunno offhand its size. But at the time was suggested and plenty were on hand. Easier to drill & tap for it rather than drilling a tiny hole what I probably not had drillbits that small on hand anyway.
Further, control flow via turning up or down the regulator a ballvalve serves as shut off. About its only "safety"feature is that valve has a large handle whats easy to turn in emergency.
Like I mention, fairly crude combustion system. Despite a tad lean burning, perform very well

 

[HomeBru]

I've built both venturi and blown burners for forges. Venturi is picky on orifice size as the pressure of the gas entering the chamber is what causes the venturi to draw air in to be mixed. Blown burners generally have just a 1/4" inlet pipe for the gas to mix freely with the blown air and a needle valve to adjust gas flow. I have my gas inlet two elbows before the burner and that seems to do a good job of mixing the air/gas.

 

[Heat-Beat-Treat-Repeat]

Thank you both, can I ask Kuraki, what sort of valve do you use? Needle, Gate or Ball?

 

[Heat-Beat-Treat-Repeat]

Excellent, thank you HomeBru.