Forging a tanto blade

W

Whoever Wherever

Joined
Nov 17, 2006
Messages
1,124
While I am waiting for forge stuff from Darren and steel from Aldo I have nothing to do but over think my plans. I have read Kevin Cashen's post on forging out a hunter blade and it had me wondering. When forging a tanto of say 8" would you also start with a downward curve or would forging in the bevels just give you a proper sori or would it end up being to pronounced. Any other tips for this type of blade? Thanks for any help, I am chomping at the bit.
 
Forge the blade straight. When you do the clay quinch the sori will form. I recomend useing parks 50 quinch oil. You can use a wter brine but expect to crack some blades learning the right quinch times.
 
I was told that something as short as a tanto would not usually curve in quench so you had to forge a bit of sori in. Was I misinformed? I will be using parks 50.
 
It depends on how promanant you want it to be. I did a 10" tanto after quinch it a 3/16" hight at center with the spine down on a sheet of glass.( just remembered it was water quinched)Here are some bad pics of it
 
Don't expect to get any curve in oil. If ANY, it will be downward curvature.

I spent well over a year learning how to use water in my shop... it's not something that seems to just come overnight. But it IS possible, so if you want to try it don't let me sway you.

Show us what you come up with :)
 
Well I want a noticeable sori so I guess I will forge it in and hope it doesnt down curve into a straight blade. So back to my original question if I start with a straight piece of steel for an 8" blade how much will it climb as the bevels are forged in? should I first create a downward curve in my knife then forge in the bevels like in Kevins how-to?
 
I haven't used parks#50 yet just got a pail fri. looking forward to playing with it. I figured it would give about the same results as water, with a less chance of cracking.Thanks for the info Nick
Nick is so right, it took me almost a year of trial and error to get a blade right. With water I still crack about 2 of 5.
 
Dustin, the reason I didn't answer that is because there are soooo many variables/unknowns.

Using the hammers and techniques that I do, I don't get a lot of that "banana" effect, and I just straighten the little bit of it I do get, as I go along.

When I first started forging, they'd curve up like a boomerang. :)

Kevin obviously knows what he's doing, but I don't think it's a matter of one of us being wrong or right... just different ways to skin a cat.

So long as your methods get you a nicely shaped blank that doesn't require a ridiculous amount of grinding to make it look like what you wanted to finish with, then I'd say your forging is successful.

MY PERSONAL way, is to forge the blade with the cutting edge straight like a wharncliff right up to the end, and then on the last few heats put the shape in the belly that I want.

If you're ever in my neighborhood I'd be happy to show you what works for me :)
 
Dustin,
I do 'em like Nick does. Forge the blade and keep it straight by resetting the edge straight at the end of each heat. Once the blade is forged, add some sori. I usually add just about what I want ( maybe a tad more), and after the clay coat and parks #50 quench, adjust the sori if needed in the grinding /togi steps. My results rarely require any adjustments, in the length of a tanto.
From experience, I can tell you that you should forge the blade wider and thicker than you think is right. It will end up narrower and thinner after the profile grinding and foundation work (shiagi togi).
Fat tanto are strange looking. Narrow tanto/aikuchi are graceful and sleek.
Stacy
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I should have figured that the amount of climb varies with your technique. I know I am over thinking things. Once I get my supplies I will get to work figuring things out thee old fashioned way. Beating on it! You guys are brave with the water, I think I would have a meltdown after blade 3 cracked. I've done some 1095 but chickened out when it came to water quenching. One of these days I'll have to try and pull off a water hamon. For now though I wanted to go with parks for results without the risk. I figure taking out all the variables I can will let me focus on my hammering.

Nick I may have to take you up on that, thanks for the offer. Stacy I may have to bug you later on in the project if I cant figure it all out from your previous posts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top