Forging.....D-2 (I Know???)

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Jun 4, 2002
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Has anyone here forged D-2 and if so what result did you get? Some years ago I forged a blade from a thick bar as it was too large in its present form for a knife. I didn’t finish the knife as of yet, but from time to time still look at it with questions. The best I remember is that it had to be forged at a high heat in order to move the metal and prevent cracking. I have some of the D-2 on hand some from planer blades and some from plate steel/bar stock and I am going to attempt to make something useful (a knife) from it. Just curious if anyone else has hammered D-2. Over the years I have done a few things that at the time weren’t suppose to be possible, I just didn’t know so tried it and it worked. Also years ago (12 yrs.+) I oil quenched a blade for a friend and he said that it was D-2 and we also tempered it with a torch, it worked. I do know that sometimes things work but might not be the best. Just fun to try and experiment. Didn’t someone once say that man would never fly….? Just the other day I saw a new way to parachute without a chute, not sure what it is called…! I have so much of known metals and they are easier to work with that I have not completed some of the things I started many moons ago.

Ramsey
 
I have forged old planer blades that were supposedly D2, no problems whatsoever. Forges like your regular tool steels like A2, 52100, H13, they all feel kind of similar and equally bastardous(new word!) to forge:D. I would like to get some definate D2 factory stock to try my hand at forging it.
 
Sam, how difficult was the D2 to grind after forging, and how did you anneal prior to grinding? Just curious.
Tad Lynch
 
I tried to forge some planar blades, and the sharpened edge of the blade cracked and seperated from the rest of the bar.

I annealed it first, but it appears I didn't do it right.

I'll have to look up some info on it, but it was a bear to forge.

6170 however, forges like butter. I am in love with this stuff. The same people who made the planar blades sent me a sample. (enough for about 5-6 blades) and it's working great. This material is what they make saw mill circular saw blades from.
 
Very difficult, I did not anneal I just ground it after forging it. You MUST drill your holes for handle slabs FIRST on the annealed bar stock, and profile your handle then forge the blade, you won't drill it afterwards. The little knife I made from the D2 was a hidden tang, so i just glued it into some wood after HT.

Hey Dave, what company sent you the 6170? I'd like to get my hands on some too!
 
Ramsey, I have forged D-2 by hand in 5/8" round stock when I first started making. Something I will not be doing again. Needs to be forged about as hot as you can get it and for a very short period of time. The planer blades I'm sure would be easier. I think it would be a good idea to anneal them first if you have a heat treat oven. Think D-2 needs to soak at 1200 for a couple hours and then ramp down about as slow as you can.
 
Thanks everyone for your input. That’s the way I remember it too, very difficult. The first piece I did was a rectangular bar. I have a heat-treat oven and will have to try the ramping down. Ray, I was out your way a few years and a fellow gave me about three five gallon buckets full of planer blades. It just kind of bothers me to have so much good knife steel laying around and not using it. I took some in on a trade once that was cut out of ¼” plate and I think it is in an annealed state that will enable me to grind it. Seems like it is getting more difficult to stay up on what we would consider “common” knife steels as I am seeing a lot of new numbers all the time. Seems like a lot of them would overlap. I’m sure that in some regards they do (element) wise. Anyone know of a type of place to look for that would do content testing for various metals. I had one near by but it went out of business (foundry). I have some steels in large enough volume that it would be worth the investment if I can find a place to do it. Thanks again fellows and those knives are looking great. Keep it up…!

Ramsey
 
Ramsey, Contact Chuck Bybee: http://www.alphaknifesupply.com/ I recall him saying he has a place that does testing. Wayne Goddard had done several knives out of the planner blades but pretty sure they were all stock removal. Not sure if he anneaed the blades or just ground them hard.
 
D2 needs to be held at 1600 for two hours, then ramped down. Here's the data sheet:

http://crucibleservice.com/datash/ACFC3C.pdf?CFID=1716762&CFTOKEN=36792618

Here's what I got when I forged D2:

d2-wootz.JPG
 
Thanks again everyone…! The information you all have provided me with will be very helpful, not only to me but I’m sure to many others as well. For everyone helped here probably there are a hundred or even hundreds you never know about that benefit from your generosity.
Phillip that blade picture reminds me a lot of the interesting pattern I remember seeing in the shear steel Ray was using some time back. It is very interesting, now I really want to try some of it.-----really makes it fun…huh?

Ramsey
 
Well Sam my Blacksmithing teacher rolled around on the floor laughing while i tried to forge New D2 stock. Got it hot and hit it with a 3 lb hammer. It made a dink sound an barely moved. So I said i'll take care of this and got er real hot, hit it and it turned into oatmeal. it can be done but it is really slow as D2 hot is as hard as hotrolled cold. Good luck in forging the sword. I would like to watch that one in person. My turn to laugh.

Chuck
 
Well Sam my Blacksmithing teacher rolled around on the floor laughing while i tried to forge New D2 stock. Got it hot and hit it with a 3 lb hammer. It made a dink sound an barely moved. So I said i'll take care of this and got er real hot, hit it and it turned into oatmeal. it can be done but it is really slow as D2 hot is as hard as hotrolled cold. Good luck in forging the sword. I would like to watch that one in person. My turn to laugh.

Chuck

:D, maybe i'll loo for flat stock:foot:.
 
I've heard that Joe Szilaski can work absolute miracles with forging D2. Man,
I would love to know how he does it.
 
I tried to forge some planar blades, and the sharpened edge of the blade cracked and seperated from the rest of the bar.

I annealed it first, but it appears I didn't do it right.

I'll have to look up some info on it, but it was a bear to forge.

6170 however, forges like butter. I am in love with this stuff. The same people who made the planar blades sent me a sample. (enough for about 5-6 blades) and it's working great. This material is what they make saw mill circular saw blades from.
Dave, what company sent you the 6170? How's it hold an edge?
Thanks,
Mitch
 
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