Forging file steel

B

bjalongi

Joined
Oct 23, 2006
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I have a TON of old files that I've picked up over the years, wore out, or had given to me for making knives.

I have nicholsons, no name farrier rasps, and other good brands. How is file steel for forging after being annealed?

Thanks.
BJ
 
You don't need to anneal files before forging, bringing metal to forging temperature does away with anything annealing does anyways. What I do however recommend is grinding the teeth off, or mostly off, to prevent from getting cold shunts in the steel as you fold it. File steel for the most part, is usually decent steel. I recommend using a known steel if you can get it, but when i pick up files for 25c a piece at times, i use them too.
 
I've been forging a few files. Too soon to call as far as my results go. I've forged three so far, two of them finished. I have been forging to shape, then normalizing X2, then quenching in vet grade mineral oil. First blade I tempered at 400 and it was too brittle, chipped on the edge. Second I tempered at 425 with good results. Third I just forged last night and haven't hardened yet. I know Robert Dark forges some files, might ask him.

As far as stock removal after annealing, they work pretty well. Good to use if you've got them cheap, but consensus around here seems to be that we're better off buying some 1084.
 
I've made a few stock removal "file knives" to date. However, I don't like the process of grinding off the teeth before forging. I'm too lazy, and would rather straighten a spring or use a known steel.

Here's some interesting File Knife history that I found online. http://www.knife-expert.com/filestory.htm

I've had good luck quenching files in a hydraulic fluid and vegetable oil mix (3:1), and tempering at 420 for two 1.5 hour cycles. If I leave it in for two hours, they become too soft. I usually take it out when the tell tale straw color appears, which is between 1.25 and 1.5 hours depending on the thickness of the blade.
 
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Use an angle grinder to remove the teeth. Pretty fast and cheaper than belts. Works for me.
 
While everyone knows how I feel about using unknown steel, the Nicholson
s should do fine. The farrier's rasps are OK for hawks with a high carbon bit added. For hawks, leave the teeth on and forge them flat. It makes a neat look.
Stacy
 
Cant remember the excact thread on another forum but the Nicholson file company was asked what type of steel they used and there reply was 1095 for all there files.
 
DanGraves said:
Cant remember the excact thread on another forum but the Nicholson file company was asked what type of steel they used and there reply was 1095 for all there files.
Click to expand...

I contacted them also, and they advised me the same thing....1095.
 
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