forging my first sword.. help please?

Knifemaker87

Knifemaker87

Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
1,073
hey everybody...
well i am taking the leap. i am foring my first wakazashi.
i am forging it out of don handon's W2.. so i have drawn the stock out... not i am shaping it.. but some tip/hits would be appreicated here is what i have done so far
DSC01681.jpg

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DSC01686.jpg

thanks!
~Chris
 
I've never forged a sword, so I can't offer much in the way of help, but that's a mightly fine bit of whup-ass you put into drawing that out...good work!

-d
 
you squee... you drink that i wanna watch... *laughs* i keep my FC acid in that bottle.
yeah i took some arm muscles to whack that out... i was gonna make it outa 1 1/4" but i chickiened out.
i have more pics... the blade is rough forged... let it cool gonna go forge the tang..
i'll post pics this evening
~Chris
 
Forge the wakazashi to a about 35% wider and thicker than you want. DO NOT forge the sori in the blade, it forms on the quench. Grind it to the blade profile you desire,(Iori, Mitsu, etc.) and still leave 20% extra. Now, turn off the power tools and get a good BIG Bastard File. Draw file the bevels in. Switch to a HARD block and wet-or-dry paper. Start with 100 and work up to 400. The blade should be at about 110% of the desired thickness now. The edge should be about .040-.050 wide. After the clay is applied, do the HT however you are planning (a trench forge and charcoal work fine) quenching in 130F water. Quench edge down , IN 1-2-3 OUT 1-2-3, IN till cool. There will be all sorts of scary noises, one hopefully will not be PING!!!
You can quench in a trough of fast oil if you are leery of a water quench, but the hamon may not be as strong,sori will be iffy, and the flare-up may startle you (just ignore it).
After a water quench the sori should be a nice curve. Temper at 400-450 twice (depending on your target hardness).
Make a sanding board to lock in your vise, or make some sort of stand with a 2X4 about 2 feet long. The blade is clamped to this with the edge at the edge to sand and polish. Go slow and watch the edge and point.
OK, now get out that block and papers and start the final sanding by hand. (Only use a grinder to remove the scale.) Go right through to as high a finish as you want, 2000 is good, but 800 will do.When the blade is getting near done, stop and do the tsuka, tsuba, and habaki fitting. When they are done go back and finish the blade polishing. When at the final grit, etch the balde, and repeat the last grit, (All sanding is being done wet at this point,BTW). Polish with choji (light oil) and rouge or just use Flitz metal polish (I like Flitz) on a leather strop made by covering a 2X10" piece of hardwood with good strop leather. The edge forms as you sand and polish ,so be careful, you can get a very severe cut by trying to go too fast. Once the final polishing is done, the blade should be completely sharp. Tape the edge for safety while working on the tsuka-make.

Send me an email if you need any more help or materials. I have a lot of silk cord and other supplies. I'm only 45 minutes away.
Stacy
 
wow... that was great!
thanks stracy. i am still kinda leery of the water... i have cracked blades every time i have tried it. however... i was guessing at temp and i can almost garentee it was too hot. so i will give it another try.
Don, what temp is best for W2?
all your advice is awesome on the blade... it has been what i have been doing on my tantos.. except i have been using "mothers aluminus and mag" polish...will this work? i usually thin it a bit with WD40 and i use leather, the real thick stuff though it isnt strop leather.
i draw file.... and hand sand.. i'll keep up updated... your helps i so totally awesome
here are more pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/Knifemaker87/W2Wakazashi

thanks for the help!
~Chris
 
Wow Chris awesome. this just proves even further how good of a choice it was to add you on aim. Cant wait to see you finished product. You know i'm a fan
of your work. Keep us posted :thumbup: :thumbup:

Vinny :D
 
My only comment on the blade (besides, nice forging job !) is that it looks a bit narrow for a wakazashi.How wide is the blade now? If it is not wide and thick, maybe you should consider an oil quench?
Stacy
 
hey!
yes... it is narrow. however it is over 3/8" (about 1 cm) thick on the spine down to a little over 1/8" on teh edge. i am going to forge it to shape (like in the picture) or try. so it will be wider.
i'll post pics... but would you recomend a oil quench is it is not wider? i have some Parks 50 also.. if i do go with an oil quench should i forge in some sori?
thanks
~Chris
 
looking great, do you hammer by hand or do you have slaves with massive hammers, (or a power hammer)? may i ask what those taped up steel tubes are?
does the phrase- don't be sori over spilt milk apply?
 
HAHAHAHA
i do all my forging with a 2 1/2 maul thingy i got at the harware store... and that taped up steel is W2 from Don Hanson.. Those are 1 1/4" diameter and about 10" long. so i was using it for some size referncing

i love your little phrase... but i dont know if it applys or not *grins*

thanks
~Chris
 
Walter Sorrels has a tutorial on his site on how to forge japanese blades.I think Don Fogg may too.
 
If you are going to oil quench it ,I would forge in the sori. The last Wakazashi I made was 3/8 thick and 1.5 wide prior to staring on the filing. Finished it was 1/4X 1.25.
Stacy

Kieth - I think "Better safe than sori.", applies better.
 
Small point (and if I offend, I'm sori) but isn't it a wakizashi as opposed to a wakazashi? Just curious...? Nice work by the way. Seriously want to see this one when it's finished!
 
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