Forging steel question and source in ct

Will Batayte

Will Batayte

Joined
Jan 8, 2007
Messages
640
Just finished my washtub forge. Got an anvil, hammer, and a pair of visegrips to stand in for some tongs until I either make or buy a pair. Now I need steel! I would like to start with either o1 or possibly 1084 since I've read both are forgiving in heat treating for noobs like me. I live in hartford CT and was wondering where to buy some stock? Anyone know a good local source?

Now for my other question. When a smith refers to mild steel is there a specific type of steel thats the go to mild steel for forging non knife blade related stuff. Tongs, decorative stuff? I do want to try my hand at a few other projects that just call for mild steel just don't know what to look for. I know railroad spikes are considered mild but I just want to buy stock rather then walk the tracks in a heatwave lol
 
Hi Cold Blooded 357,
What I have Experienced is 1084 forges easier under the hammer. O1 can have issues if over heated.
So in my opinion 1084 is what I would start with.
I and are many other BladeSmiths get their steel From Aldo. http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/shop/
Have fun and Stay Safe,
Sincerely,
Dave
 
Last edited:
Yeah, Aldo's the man.

He can answer your questions about mild steel grades too.





Big Mike
 
coldblooded357 said:
Just finished my washtub forge. Got an anvil, hammer, and a pair of visegrips to stand in for some tongs until I either make or buy a pair. Now I need steel! I would like to start with either o1 or possibly 1084 since I've read both are forgiving in heat treating for noobs like me. I live in hartford CT and was wondering where to buy some stock? Anyone know a good local source?

Now for my other question. When a smith refers to mild steel is there a specific type of steel thats the go to mild steel for forging non knife blade related stuff. Tongs, decorative stuff? I do want to try my hand at a few other projects that just call for mild steel just don't know what to look for. I know railroad spikes are considered mild but I just want to buy stock rather then walk the tracks in a heatwave lol
Click to expand...

From what I've read and worked with, 10-20 cold rolled steel is about the closest thing to the traditional wrought iron metal if that's what you want, especially for decorative work that will require many bends and heats, but it will never be exactly the same. Most of the stuff in hardware stores, farm supplies, and bulk metal supplies is mild steel designed for welding and should be fine for any rigs and jigs you want to set up for your shop. You might want to be more selective and talk to your supplier about things that will see outdoor weather, though. It's kinda hard to give steel advice without knowing the exact use for said steel. Tongs from hardware store metal will do fine just don't make the joint and jaws to thin ( you'll be beating them back to shape now and then, anyway). If you go to local flea markets and antique malls, there are usually a few old smithy's tools hanging around to look at.

I would recommend you go pick up Alex W. Bealers "The art of Blacksmithing" and read it for a starting point. It's a great deal right now on Amazon at $5-9 hardcover. It covers nearly everything from the earliest blacksmiths and metal smelters to the 20th century with great illustrations and diagrams for making basic tools and implements, as well as some decorative examples. It isn't quite up to modern standards, but any beginner should probably learn the basic primitive principles before they decide to invest their money in a modernized shop. I think this book's greatest feature is that it teaches you how smithing can be accomplished with the most modest means - fire, metal, and two hard objects for hammer and anvil. If you can get your head around that, then everything else is just gravy.

I hope you have a lot of fun, man!
 
For mild steel look for a structural steel supplier, for beginner forging blade stock get some 1084 from Aldo

-Page
 
Your mild steel will usually be referred to as 1018 or A36 or mill steel. It is sold at the hardware stores or steel supply. 1084 is considered one of the most forgiving easiest to heat treat steels available. Aldo is an excellent source.
 
Thanks for all the info! The forge is just about dry enough for me to start I think. The cat litter adobe cracked while drying so I filled em in and dried some more. I found it really helpful to spritz the surface with water from a spray bottle while smoothing everything. Gave it a really nice smooth finish. I have the forge set up on wheels so I can move it in and out of the garage to work. This way it really won't see much bad weather. I'll definitely grab that book. I've been trying to soak up as much info as possible.
 
If you do any other work with clay in the future, wrap everything in plastic to slow drying, it will really reduce cracks.
 
Thanks for that tip. I was actually trying to dry it as fast as possible with a huge fan and a 90 degree screened in porch lol.
 
Welcome to the addiction... My dad, a bladesmith here on BF introduced me and my children to forging and we all enjoy it. I built a two burner propane venturi forge and as soon as my kids hear it fire up, they're in the shop with me wanting to hammer. I pick up scraps/cutoffs of concrete rebar for the kids to play with and have a number of iron hooks made of it around our pool for towel hangers. Been holding up great! I've made a few really ugly sets of tongs out of steel from Ace and Menards as well.
 
Well ugly don't matter to me as of yet lol. Unfortunately home depot only had really thin stock. I've got some 1084 on the way from the site above. And until then I think I'm gonna have to scour the tracks for some spikes. Tomorrow I'm gonna hit the scrapyard and see about getting some mild steel for those tongs. And maybe try and make a couple anvil tools.

I had my first fire last night and have shaped an old file into a basic sheepsfoot pikal blade. I had begun trying to make it before using files for stock removal so its not the best piece to start with but I just had to pound on something!

It took a long time for the forge to dry because I used a 16.9 gallon washtub. So it was a lot of adobe to dry. Strangely enough I patched the cracks one last time then fired it up. And no more cracks. I guess it hardened the clay. For the blower I used a bathroom fan from home depot that cost $13. Seems to work fine. Maybe I'll upgrade later. The whole set up is mounted on a furniture dolly so it can come in and out of the garage for fires. I need to get a good log to mount my anvil. So far I just have it sitting on a log that happens to be a few inches too short.
 
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