forging

v-6

Joined
Nov 24, 2007
Messages
952
well I'm going to try forging, and would like to know how hot do you get your gas forge to make it pound easy, like butter .
i don't what to much, no big hammer all hand hammer.
and I'm 62 so I'm not tough any more.
want to forge 1084
vern
 
69 knives gave a good all around forging temp, but it really depends on the steel. What steel are you using? download the .PDF file for your steel (I usually use http://buffaloprecision.com/data_sheets/data_sheets_cp.htm for my data. Some steels respond well to higher heat and others will crumble where others shine. Worst thing you can do is not normalize 2-3x after your done heating and forging, each normalizing cycle should be done at a lower heat than before. If you dont have a pyrometer thats ok look no further than your kitchen...Table salt melts at 1475ºF the exact quench temp for W1, 1095 etc and start soak temp for O1, just sprinkle a little on your blade (for lack of a better term, like a line of coke) then slowly ramp up your forge till you see it melt like snow, when that happens your there. . . quench

Jason
 
Vern did say he wants to forge 1084, that's why I went with that temp range.

I use the last 3 or 4 heats to do any final straightening and touch ups as well as lowering the temps to normalize at the same time; the last 2 heats there shouldn't be any hammering taking place to not induce any more stresses.

You should be able to get a PID and K type thermocouple for about $50.00 shipped, maybe less. Use the PID as a temp guage, they're cheaper than a pyrometer.
 
:foot: how'd I miss that! 69Knives is right...:cool::thumbup: for 1084 you quench @ 1500 so let the salt totally melt before quenching.
 
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