found my first blood dvd, cant stop watching it, so i made plans for a knife!

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elvenbladesmith07

Joined
Jul 29, 2004
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663
well i finally found my rambo collection and the first blood knife is really getting to me. my plan is to make a interpretation of the knife from my imagination. in the commentary they said that the blade is based of the AFSK. i have the united cutlery version but its not good steel and the hallow handle cant take much so im making my own! first my handle will have alot of paracord wrapped around a leather stacked handle. the blade will be 1095 with saw teeth like the WSK on the back so its more funtional. the blade will be 7 1/4" long by 1/4" wide. the real on has a 9" blade, too long for me so i shortened it. the guard will have 2 lashing holes, and one will possibly be large enough to fit a 1" pole through to help secure the knife as a spear. im loosing the srewdriver guard for two reasons, there useless to me in survival, and i cant make them! :D the sheath will be more like the movie version with a very large pocket for survival needs and a whet stone. it will have a beadblasted finish with a coat of oxpho-blue. the edges will still be shiny like the movie version. what do you guys think? sound good? if i had a camera i would post pics of my blueprints and mild steel model, but i dont so ill have to barrow one sometime. questions, comments, and critisisms are all helpfull.
 
There must be somewhere you can get stainless steel tubing,I'm sure there is an application for it somewhere commercially.Maybe Marine industry? I would ditch the idea of blasting the carbon steel blade though,even with blueing it will be a rust magnet.
 
bingo! run an internet search for this company.they have all sizes of tubing.

Penn Stainless Products, Inc.
190 Kelly Rd., P.O. Box 9001
Quakertown, PA 18951-9001
Phone: (800) 222-6144
Toll Free: (888) 222-6244
Fax: (215) 536-3255
 
well is there some kind of matte finish i can get on the blade that wount make it rust? what aboput some kind of parkerizing? ive heard of people doing this but i have no idea of what it is or who does it. or som kind or phosphate coating ive heard used on knives before. maybe a powder coat of some kind? it just has to matte and i want to be able to get it in black or maybe be able to blue it.
 
Look up on Brownells website.They sell gun finishing products.I have used the Gun-kote bake on finish on my knives and guns with good results.Wife will be pissed off at the fumes from using the oven.However,They do sell a parkerizing phosphate finish kit.You can do it pretty cheaply using a stainless steel pot and barbecue grill outside to bring the chemicals up to the proper tempature.
 
elvenbladesmith07 said:
rather use gun kote. easier. why make life hard?
Click to expand...



However,I think the parkerizing may be more wear/scratch resistant.
They also sell a teflon type finish that cures in 2 weeks without needing to be baked like gun kote.
 
what do you put the teflon on and let it dry for 2 weeks or something? and what is the brownells site? ive heard of it but i cant find it on the internet.
 
Man, I cannot wait to see what you come up with. I think the first Rambo knife was the best so I am glad that you are basing yours off that. I'll keep checking back for updates...


Cerberus :cool:
 
I was having a hard time finding the non-baking,air cure product.
It was a metal coat epoxy.I see a Brownells clear metal coat epoxy listed,not a solid color one.If you just want to blast the blade with a fine oxide,and then spray it with the metal coat clear epoxy,that would be pretty cool.
I don't think I would use a course grit,that would cause larger pockets that would attract corrosion.go with the fine grit.
 
i dont think im gunna use stainless tubing. maybe coat some high carbon tubing to prevent rust. the reason for not usuing ss is i cant mig weld the tubing to the guard, and i wanted to temper the tubing to a spring to provide even more durability. i was going to make the tang as wide as the tubing, at the shoulders and about an 1" past that. then slowly taper to 1/4", so the end of the tang will be 1/4" by 1/4" and i cant round it off and put threads on it. the guard will be slipped up to the shoulders of the blade and tack welded along the sides. then the tubing will be slipped over the tang and welded to the guard. so the guard and tang are one piece and the guard and tubing are one piece. then and aluminum end cap will have a drilled and threaded hole in it so when it is put on the end of the tang it will help hold the bottom of the tang and the bottom of the tubing toghether. this concept is hard to understand in writing. i wish i had a digital camera right now. after all on the welding is done it should be heat treated, but i think this would be difficult considering all of the stress points. the reason for all the welding is, i only want the knife to be 2 pieces, the knife and but cap. if i had a mill i would just bore out a piece of round 1095 and have no welding or tang or anything like reeves knives, but i dont so im trying to think of a plan to weld it all.
 
what about soldering SS? Isn't a threaded tang with nut the usual hollow handle securement method,the weld usually not the main attachment point? I'm not that familiar with the design besides Reeves type.
 
my tang will go through out the length of the tubing. and the threaded end of it will have the butcap screwed to it. so the tang passes thru the guard and tubing and out the open end the but cap threads on to this end of the tang and tightens till its seated on the bottom of the handle. this meads the tang passes all the way through the handle. i dont think sodering would work forb the handle its not strong enough and wouldnt survive the HT.
 
i have a draft of the knife on microsoft paint, and i just made a photo bucket account but i cant figure out how to post it on photo bucket.
 
but if the tang goes throughout the length of the tubing,won't that affect storage in the handle? I was just mentioning solder (low-temp),cause I know it is used in guard joints and such like on some of the Randalls I used to have.see,if you can e-mail me a small pic,and maybe I can try and post it.
 
yeah it would make for less storage, but all i store in the handle usually is a small flint, hooks, needles, thread, and other little things hard to make in the bush. the rest will be stored in an extra large pocket on the sheath. most people say "why dont you just put a big pocket on the sheath", and i always think that the pocket isnt water proof and what if the sheath gets lost? ive had instances where the sheaths belt loop breaks and i loose the sheath. so i figure store the big stuff in the pocket and the hard to find little stuff that has to be kept dry goes in the handle. besides youed be suprised what can be fit inside on of those handles. i usually end up with too much room.
 
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