Found nice black knife! Plz tell about ht

Back to the point...I wouldn't put too much faith in the quality of the heat treat of whoever makes the Bear Edge line for Bear and Sons.
 
When it says simply 440 that normally means 440A. 440A can be heat treated very hard and so works pretty good, but usually it is not on cheaper knives. Keep in mind that Sandvik 12C28N is a 440A steel so it can be very good. However, this knife was probably make in China, originally and so I would hesitate to spend $25 when I know you can get a good knife for that amount of money that is proven. One of Spyderco's Byrd line, or the Esee Zancudo, or the Rat 1 are good examples.
 
marcinek said:
Just the incorrect stuff.

Also, the assumption that this knife is good because the domestic Bear and Sons are good should be dismissed.

Bear Edge is pretty clearly their "cheap import" line. Many makers do one, and quality of them has nothing to do with their "domestic" line, necessarily.

What is Boker's....Boker Magnum? Junk.
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Is Bear and Sons domestic line even any good?
I remember looking into them a couple years ago and all I was hearing from people that had tried them out was that their QC was trash. Maybe they've stepped up their game since then but I wouldn't spend my money on any of their products unless I had the chance to inspect it first. I sure as hell wouldn't trust their imported mystery steel offerings.
 
jimmyd1982 said:
Is Bear and Sons domestic line even any good?... I sure as hell wouldn't trust their imported mystery steel offerings.
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Beats me of the first point.
I agree on the second.

I'd trust the Spyderco Byrd line, for example.

But Bear and Sons? eh. I'm with you. I am not sold on their "first string" let alone their second.

I mean, I'm sure they cut things and they aren't going to explode or something....but I'd rather just get the Kershaw or RAT mentioned earlier.
 
filtrum said:
Thanks, i think its not bad, the overall quality, because i would see it in the pics.
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You can somehow determine the quality of the steel, heat treat, pivot and lock strength, etc just by looking at the pictures on a website?!?

Impressive. :eek::thumbsup:
 
Filtrum,
If all black is what you want, and if $100 is within your price range, try to find an HK Axis. Made by Benchmade, D2 steel. Discontinued, and out of production; but still around if you look and act fast. For a good looking black knife with a not black blade a steal of a price, I'm really liking my new Kershaw Injection. Made you know where of 8CR13mov. Everyone seems to be closing them out at 1/2 the price of that Bear edge. Another worth checking out is the TBFK at LA Police Gear. I haven't handled one, but it looks good in pictures and has some impressive specs.
 
filtrum said:
Thanks, i think its not bad, the overall quality, because i would see it in the pics.
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They can easily pick the best example to photograph, plus you can't see blade play in a picture so this isn't a good way to judge a knife.
Btw have you tried to contact Buck about the issues you've had with you're knives ?
They're known for a great warranty department and good customer service so they'd probably take care of you.

If you really want this knife though, it's pretty unknown to anyone here so you'll just have to be the guinea pig and check it out.
 
marcinek said:
Beats me of the first point.
I agree on the second.

I'd trust the Spyderco Byrd line, for example.

But Bear and Sons? eh. I'm with you. I am not sold on their "first string" let alone their second.

I mean, I'm sure they cut things and they aren't going to explode or something....but I'd rather just get the Kershaw or RAT mentioned earlier.
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Might not explode but a sketchy liner lock can and usually will fail. I remember getting a nasty bite from some home shopping channel special that a buddy gave me back when I was young and dumb.

I'm with you, byrd, kershaw's, rat, etc. there are so many proven offerings in this price range, why waste the money on something so questionable?
 
hexenjager said:
View attachment 757185
Fixed.
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How easily would this paint "scrape" off? Say for example, using your fingernail against the side of the blade. Would that be enough to remove the paint? Should I do a layer of something else before using the paint? I've been wanting to try painting a couple of my Chinese Crkt knives. I plan to paint the stainless handles of my Crkt m16-01s sky blue and the screws heads, a dark brown/red. Then mirror polish the blade. I'm not sure why I want to. Just a project to waste some free time I guess? Any advice?
 
If the knife steel just says 440 and not even the type of 440, then you can bet it isn't 440c. Generally if a company won't tell you what their steel is then there is a reason, being that the steel is nothing to brag about.

They're hoping someone sees 440 and assumes 440c.
 
CrazyCaucasian said:
How easily would this paint "scrape" off? Say for example, using your fingernail against the side of the blade. Would that be enough to remove the paint? Should I do a layer of something else before using the paint? I've been wanting to try painting a couple of my Chinese Crkt knives. I plan to paint the stainless handles of my Crkt m16-01s sky blue and the screws heads, a dark brown/red. Then mirror polish the blade. I'm not sure why I want to. Just a project to waste some free time I guess? Any advice?
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Never tried painting a knife but me and some buddies were putting together a chopper and when it came time to paint we sanded down the metal, cleaned it, applied a primer and then used a paint sprayer with some auto paint (Urethane if I'm remembering right).

I wouldn't buy a paint sprayer just for a little project, hell for a knife you could probably just get some touch up paint and do it by hand. If you want to spray paint there are spray paints made specifically for metal (rustoleum is the only one I can think of off the top of my head... and that's probably not how it's spelled lol).

Just make sure to take the scales off and cover areas where you don't want paint building up like screw threads, holes, etc. and make sure the paint and primer are compatible.
 
^^^What jimmyd said on the paint.:D

ETA: If painting knives to make them exactly the color combos you want turns out to be something that you enjoy and want to do more of it, an airbrush might be a worthwhile investment to look at in the future. :thumbsup:
 
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I have a Bear sodbuster; fit and finish are only so-so, but the blade is high carbon CV and holds a good edge. Without knowing what grade of "440" it is hard to say (I'd suspect 440A, which is adequate but by no means high quality). If it cuts and suits your needs, fine. But there are a lot better knives available.
 
4.5 inches of assisted goodness for 25 bucks. sounds like your mind is made up. Just do it and review it for the rest of us please. Some lessons are best learned first hand.
 
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