- Joined
- Oct 28, 2006
- Messages
- 13,363
Yes, I like the frame or cased constructed handles. Makers have been using them for quite some time.
I think the initial reason the process was developed was to create a better, stronger way to hold a handle on to the Bowie. Also by utilizing slab or scale cut handle material in the frame process, the maker is able to maximize his handle material, which is nice if he has a smaller piece of special ivory which he would like to use on a particular knife. Another plus in my opinion is that it allows the maker to expand on his design by using Damascus on his frame or engraving it. And it’s just one more way a maker can demonstrate his or her skill as it’s a very tedious process when performed correctly.
As pointed out in our past “deal breakers” thread and others, some don’t care for frame handles.
Probably one of the biggest disadvantages is the possibility of handle material shrinkage if the material is not properly cured before usage. Yes no doubt, a framed handle can look quite bad if the handle material shrinks away from the frame. But you take this chance with any style handle construction to varying degrees by using poorly cured handle material.
One reason I started this thread is to get input from makers as to their preferences or tricks (let’s give away some secrets) used in their frame construction process and / or to correct any of my misconceptions above. Also let’s hear form collectors as to their likes or dislikes regarding frame handles and why. And last, I bet many new collectors and possibly seasoned collectors don’t understand the process. I’m embarrassed to admit that I didn’t know until I had ordered my first Southwest Bowie and specified one. I knew I liked the look, but thought the tang was made full handle width and the scales were attached through the wide tang. And in fact some handles (full tang) are constructed that way.
I have included some good in process photos form both Jerry Fisk and Tim Hancock to help demonstrate the process. The Fisk also has a rear bolster and the Hancock fileworked spacers both adding to the complexity. In my opinion, these two makers are among the very best at this method of handle construction.
Note the small groves Jerry cuts into the interior of the frame to allow bonding material to seep in, increasing the bond to the tang. A slight task but one that helps.
Thanks for looking....
I think the initial reason the process was developed was to create a better, stronger way to hold a handle on to the Bowie. Also by utilizing slab or scale cut handle material in the frame process, the maker is able to maximize his handle material, which is nice if he has a smaller piece of special ivory which he would like to use on a particular knife. Another plus in my opinion is that it allows the maker to expand on his design by using Damascus on his frame or engraving it. And it’s just one more way a maker can demonstrate his or her skill as it’s a very tedious process when performed correctly.
As pointed out in our past “deal breakers” thread and others, some don’t care for frame handles.
Probably one of the biggest disadvantages is the possibility of handle material shrinkage if the material is not properly cured before usage. Yes no doubt, a framed handle can look quite bad if the handle material shrinks away from the frame. But you take this chance with any style handle construction to varying degrees by using poorly cured handle material.
One reason I started this thread is to get input from makers as to their preferences or tricks (let’s give away some secrets) used in their frame construction process and / or to correct any of my misconceptions above. Also let’s hear form collectors as to their likes or dislikes regarding frame handles and why. And last, I bet many new collectors and possibly seasoned collectors don’t understand the process. I’m embarrassed to admit that I didn’t know until I had ordered my first Southwest Bowie and specified one. I knew I liked the look, but thought the tang was made full handle width and the scales were attached through the wide tang. And in fact some handles (full tang) are constructed that way.
I have included some good in process photos form both Jerry Fisk and Tim Hancock to help demonstrate the process. The Fisk also has a rear bolster and the Hancock fileworked spacers both adding to the complexity. In my opinion, these two makers are among the very best at this method of handle construction.
Note the small groves Jerry cuts into the interior of the frame to allow bonding material to seep in, increasing the bond to the tang. A slight task but one that helps.









Thanks for looking....