frame lock

Yes, the bar is aluminum (part of the frame) with a steel piece on the end that contacts the rear of the blade and also acts as a stabilizer.

Rich
 
Thanks Rich.

It is a neat idea. I didn't know anyone else did it. From the manufacturiing stand point I'm sure it makes adjusting for lock over travel a simple matter that way. Sure eaiser to pop in a new insert after it wears all the way across the interface than to bump the stop pin up to the next bigger size.

STR
 
STR said:
Thanks Rich.

It is a neat idea. I didn't know anyone else did it. From the manufacturiing stand point I'm sure it makes adjusting for lock over travel a simple matter that way. Sure eaiser to pop in a new insert after it wears all the way across the interface than to bump the stop pin up to the next bigger size.

STR
Click to expand...


Hey STR, so in your opinion, is aluminum (which I assume Microtech uses as an alloy, rather than in pure form) strong enough to be an effective and relatively safe lock-bar material (with the steel tip for wear reduction, of course)? The full size Socom (manual, frame lock) has been on my list for a while, because, in person, it's really quite an impressive knife.

Also, I must say, once again, how cool it is to see certain manufacturers actually chime in on BFC, like Rick, and Sal, and others. Talking about Rick's lock-bar stabilizer and having him chime in, and actually compliment a competitor's design, speaks very well about the man and his own work, methinks.
 
ohmyheckinslc said:
Hey STR, so in your opinion, is aluminum (which I assume Microtech uses as an alloy, rather than in pure form) strong enough to be an effective and relatively safe lock-bar material (with the steel tip for wear reduction, of course)? The full size Socom (manual, frame lock) has been on my list for a while, because, in person, it's really quite an impressive knife.

Also, I must say, once again, how cool it is to see certain manufacturers actually chime in on BFC, like Rick, and Sal, and others. Talking about Rick's lock-bar stabilizer and having him chime in, and actually compliment a competitor's design, speaks very well about the man and his own work, methinks.
Click to expand...


In the right thickness aircraft grade aluminum alloy is quite strong and many many knives use it in key areas of folder construction. With the steel insert I'm sure it will hold up for wear as well as competitor stainless liner and frame locks. I have not tested one for Microtech to do an evaluation on that folder since they don't use me as a field tester like some other manufacturers have and like I said I didn't even know about it. I would love to get one to load it down good to see just what the lock is capable of but my thoughts now on it are that it may surprise even those skeptical of it if any.

I guess in a lot of ways I am out of the loop on companies that make autos. I can't carry one legally here in Oklahoma so I rarely mess with them. I like them a lot but my fear is if I had one I'd want to carry and use it so I just avoid them and don't work on them. I assume that one is an auto or available that way. It may not be for all I know though.
STR
 
ohmyheckinslc said:
Also, I must say, once again, how cool it is to see certain manufacturers actually chime in on BFC, like Rick, and Sal, and others. Talking about Rick's lock-bar stabilizer and having him chime in, and actually compliment a competitor's design, speaks very well about the man and his own work, methinks.
Click to expand...
I second that. I was pleasantly surprised too seeing Rick answering a question of mine in person in another thread, but I think I forgot to thank him for that. (That thread had gotten a bit derailed)
So, better late than never :) : Thanks Rick!

Now back on topic:
ceriksson said:
...
I have an SnG and a Sebenza, and one very noticable difference between them is that framelock cutout (which give them the flex) is on the outside in the Strider and inside the Sebenza. I wonder how much of a difference this plays.
Click to expand...
I am wondering about this too.

When this are the two variations: (blade is on the top side in my sketch)

|| A
[| Cut-out on outer side
||

and

|| B
]| Cutout on Inner Side
||


I would think version B would be slightly better, since the bending angle will be a litter smaller creating less wear. Also, when your blade is putting power on the lock bar, in version B the power will be transmitted directly onto the frame, but in A, the power vector will be pointed outside. And I would also think that in version B, your cutout area is also more protected from wear and scratches thinning it, since it is put farther away from the outside.

But since this is only a theoretical approach from an amateur, chances are big I'm totally wrong about this.
Actually I'm not even sure if the breakage(not over-bending, I mean from the direct pressure of the blade itself when it trying to close) of the cutout area has even ever occurred in real life.

Can't wait to hear what the real experts thinks about this :)
 
STR said:
I assume that one is an auto or available that way. It may not be for all I know though.
STR
Click to expand...

Most of the SOCOM's with framelocks are manuals, (though I think their D/A models are frame/liner-locks as well. (though they're more rare) Their Automatic SOCOM models are traditional plunge locks...
 
My guess is that Ti and Aluminum handled framelocks would be more susceptable to hyper extending than a steel framelock. I'll have to do some digging to validate this, but I believe that in general steel will allow a greater deflection before taking a permanent set than either Ti or Aluminum.

But, I'd be interested to know if anyone with a steel framelock has had this issue or if STR had repaired a steel framelock.
 
After a little digging around it looks like the MT Mini SOCOM Elite Frame Lock handle is made of T6 aluminum alloy.

Also, I'm pretty sure a few MT Mini SOCOM Elite Frame Locks had Ti handles. I would love to see MT make more of them and bring back the aluminum version.

Rich
 
I carry my mission mpf 3 without the clip, because I hate clips, but thats another post. So I can identify with this topic, but couldn't this all be solved much easier by not making the relief cuts so big, how about someone like STR, who has already done the research (as I think we have already been down this road, somewhat recently) post his findings and then the makers and manf. just making the absolute bare bones minimum relief cut on the knives as necessary. The relief cut in my knife is 1/16 thick while my handle slab is 1/8 inch thick, and I know there are a lot of relief cuts out there that are thinner than 1/16. If the relief cuts were made to the ABSOLUTE MINIUM REQD. for the knife to function properly and good quality handle slab material was used, would this become a moot point, and the overextension devices become unnecessary????
 
I'm guessing that using a travel limiting device allows the knife maker to make the lockbar a little easier to bend (to unlock) without the worry of damage to the lockbar.
 
knarfeng said:
I'll have to do some digging to validate this, but I believe that in general steel will allow a greater deflection before taking a permanent set than either Ti or Aluminum.
Click to expand...

Actually, Ti in particular is very "springy" and allows for very large deflections before taking a set, one of the great advantages of Ti. But it is softer than steel can be, so the force needed to reach a certain deflection can be smaller, but I would imagine that that is much more dependent on the cutout.
 
Thanks HoB.
I still think it would be interesting to get inormation on the number of steel vs. aluminum vs. Ti handles that have suffered hyper extension.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top