Frame Locks

[cziv]

I just had the stupidest idea ever.
How about we put the frame lock on a pivot, with a spring pushing it closed!

I agree sounds like a stupid idea, maybe not ever, but none the less....

 

[Tony8179]

Its worth showing I think and for good reasons. One, the lock did it's job on that HD7. If I ever experience a lock defeat of a frame lock during use I can only hope my knife would defeat the same way still securing the blade in the process. There are far worse ways to have a lock failure than what that pic shows thats for sure. In that type of situation where something has to give one has to wonder if it would really be smart to make the lock so strong that it forced something like the stop or a pivot screw head to pop instead of what we see there. In that case the defeat could be quite a bit more catastrophic than the controlled burn (so to speak) in the way that lock defeated.

STR

I agree with you Steve. Usually that pic shows up to show framelocks in a negative light instead of positive. I agree that even though the frame bent, the lock did it's job and never actually failed. :thumbup:

 

[Poez]

2 things:

1- What does the bold part of your post mean exactly? In as much detail as you can, what is a "weakened framelock" mean?

2- Can you build a better frame lock? What models have you made that are better or equivalent to the Emerson HD-7, Benchmade 755, or Spyderco Military Ti?
I'm sure Ernie, Sal, and Shane would love to know what they have been doing wrong all this time.

The BM760 and BM755 are not the only knives with frame lock I have got. And I have got Skirmish and Mini Skirmish from Benchmade - so have something to compare these newest models with.
On my BM 760 the lock was so soft, that it would not lock properly - the blade had a small play. I have disassembled the knife and bent the lock to make it to work as it should. It is still too soft to my taste - and compared to earlier BM models I have.
With BM 755 there is a similar problem. But it locks - so I leave it as it is. A friend of mine has that knife as well with absolutely the same lock strength - so I believe that is a common feature.
And sorry - I did not quite catch your comment about building the frame lock myself. Do you mean that if you do not build a car youself you can not actually judge if it is a good car? Well, then at least judging is quite common mistake these days: some people believe that if they pay for something they can judge - even if they never produced anything similar to the goods they have bought!

 

[Toyz]

I know that with all the frame locks I have owned, I have never even come close to getting the lock to fail.

The only concern I have with a somewhat weak pressure during lock-up is if you twist the knife while cutting. There needs to be enough pressure exerted to not allow for the lockbar to easily disengage while twisting, especially in a new knife where the lockup is early.

If I ever was to have a knife fail like the one in the photo - I would be very appreciative if I came away with no cuts / stitches. My fingers are worth more to me than the most expensive knife I have in my collection.

 

[effer]

I don't worry much about strength at the cutout. I have never seen or read a report about a quality knife failing there even under hard use (testing is not a real use).

I do worry much more about lockbar slipping off the blade tang, disengaging the lock. This thing does happen even on thicker liners/frames and it doesn't require much force. I usually stay away from linerlocks and framelocks that have extreme angles at the tang.
Soft lockbar doesn't bother me (prefer it it in most cases) if lock is done right.