Framelock folder making questions

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Dec 11, 2010
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Ok... so i decided to try my hands at making a folder,a framelock folder to be exact. I have Bob's book on tactical folding knives,is a framelock folder designed like a liner lock,but without the liner(lock)? Meaning can i use what i am learning in Bob's book to make a framelock? Or do i have to design a framelock in a totally different matter? My other question has to do with ordering the steel and titanium i would like to use 3/16" CPM154 steel for the blade but i do not know what size titanium i should order to use for the scales(handles). I would like to make the blade size 3.5"or 3.75" would 3/16" steel be a good size width for a blade this size or could someone recommend a better fitting width. My last question has to do with the size for the pivot. What size pivot would be a good fit for this project? Or does it really matter when it comes to the pivot size? Thanks for all the help..
 
Have you ever made a knife before? Just out of curiosity. Also, filling out your location with your profile would be very helpful. You never know who you live next door to.
 
I use .050" titanium for liner locks. And .125" titanium for framelocks. I've used .125" and .156" for the blade.
 
Thanks jbblount for the info. Yes thegeek574 i have made knives before and straightrazors. But folders is a totally different beast i would like to conquer. There is something about carrying and opening a folder you made with your own 2 hands that would just put a smile on my face.
 
OK, cool. I just get kind of worried when I see someone who wants to make folders and has never touched a file before.... I am just getting started with folders and the more I read the more i understand I don't know.
 
Ok... so i decided to try my hands at making a folder,a framelock folder to be exact.

I have Bob's book on tactical folding knives,is a framelock folder designed like a liner lock,but without the liner(lock)?

Meaning can i use what i am learning in Bob's book to make a framelock?

A framelock is a linerlock, but without the scale on the lock side.

And the liner is much thicker

What good would it do to skip the lock ?

google up some images

sebenza21.jpg


framelock_ex_02.jpg
 
1/8" to 3/16" for the frame thickness. Make sure you have a way to cut the relief in it, or you will never be able to work the lock with your thumb.
Design considerations are mostly the same for either frame or liner lock.
Pocket clip placement becomes more important on a framelock, because of the exposed lock.
Bobs book is a great start.
I like 5/32 steel, but that is personal preference.
Pivots should be 3/16 or 1/4", more important are the size of your thrust washers.
 
1/8" to 3/16" for the frame thickness. Make sure you have a way to cut the relief in it, or you will never be able to work the lock with your thumb.
Design considerations are mostly the same for either frame or liner lock.
Pocket clip placement becomes more important on a framelock, because of the exposed lock.
Bobs book is a great start.
I like 5/32 steel, but that is personal preference.
Pivots should be 3/16 or 1/4", more important are the size of your thrust washers.

+1 and I too like 5/32" stock for big frame locks.
Stan
 
1/8" to 3/16" for the frame thickness. Make sure you have a way to cut the relief in it, or you will never be able to work the lock with your thumb.
Design considerations are mostly the same for either frame or liner lock.
Pocket clip placement becomes more important on a framelock, because of the exposed lock.
Bobs book is a great start.
I like 5/32 steel, but that is personal preference.
Pivots should be 3/16 or 1/4", more important are the size of your thrust washers.

Thanks Brian for the info
 
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