Framelock strength question

Joined
Mar 24, 2001
Messages
326
Hi guys!

I've got a question that's been burning me for a while. It has to do with the real (vs. perceived) strength of a framelock, especially compared to locks that wedge metal into the tang (axis, compression, rollock, etc).

The only framelock I'm familiar with is my Kershaw Chive, but the basic design seems to pretty much the same.

From spending too much time here, I gather that most people seem to think that the framelock is quite strong, and I've heard comments that it would be almost as strong as an axis... Yet, when I look at the design on my chive, I find that hard to believe. Now I realize that the Chive is a light duty folder. But when I look at pictures of a Sebenza, for example, I see that they're built on the same principles.

So, let's assume a Sebenza, for arguments sake. To me (who was never really strong in Physics), the actual strength of the lock would be the strength of titanium at the thinnest portion (the relief at the back, to make the lock bendable). I've never handled a Sebenza, but from pictures, there doesn't seem to be that much metal left. Add to that the fact that the handle is titanium. Titanium is stronger than steel at equal weights, not equal volume. That means that at the relief point, titanium is not an advantage. Last of all, by using the frame as the locking mechanism, we introduce an angle compared to the knife blade. That means that the force acting against the lock is at an angle compared to the frame lock, which to me would introduce more stress at the relief point.

All this to say, that with my limited knowledge, I perceive a framelock to be much weaker than it would seem on the surface, compared to an axis or compression.

Now, there's a real reason why I'm asking this. I'm turning 40 this year. My wife has warned me that I can't get a mistress, and I can't sell the minivan for a Porsche. In the second case, I'd get a nasty divorce. In the first one, I'd get a nasty divorce after getting my balls cut off :eek: That leaves the third option: buying an expensive knife :D

Most of you have probably guessed by now that I'm trying to convince myself to get a Sebenza. However, I really like my Spydies, and I'm pretty sure I'd love a Benchmade. Thing is, for the price of a decorated Sebbie, I could by a Paramilitary and a Switchback. Bear in mind that I'm Canadian. By the time the Sebbie would get in my hands, I'd have spent over $550CDN, which is a faire amount of bread :grumpy:

What I need to figure out is whether a Sebenze is better than a Benchmade + a Spyderco, and I'm having a hard time convincing myself. I'm feeling that a Sebbie might be better than Benchmade or Spyderco, but not by as much as the price difference...

Help!

Thanks!

Guy
 
... a Sebbie might be better than Benchmade or Spyderco, but not by as much as the price difference...

That's the problem with luxury items, the price goes up faster than the quality can. But in the case of a Sebenza, the quality goes all the way up. Never mind the speculative physics, the lock won't fail. The hand holding it would fail long before that. (This is true of most good locks, obviously.)

Are you looking for a knife? Or are you looking for a defining moment in your knife collecting? The Sebenza is as good a working knife as you can find, and it is a fine tool you can take pride in owning, also.

I refuse to denigrate Benchmade or Spyderco, who make beautiful knives, too, but they don't come close to CRK in precision of manufacture and excellence of operation.

Words are cheap. (Sebenzas aren't! :cool: ) You really have to hold one to understand the difference. Some people don't get it until they use theirs. Some people don't like Sebenzas, ever -- that's cool, too, that's why there's a whole knife industry!

As a Canadian, have you checked out True North Knives? Neil's got a great personal reputation and since he's in Quebec should avoid some of the hassle of importing for you.
 
buy a true custom for the money, if you want an expensive knife. For using knives, I say get 2-3 BM, Spydie, MT, whatever for the price of a Sebbie.
 
Just to add fuel to the fire (and not answer your original question at all :~), both of the following knives are customs by Mike Obenauf, a great maker who stands behind his work and best of all are priced at the exact same price point as the sebenza. The Ti handled Obenauf is a framelock (3 1/8" blade) and the cf handled version is a beefy linerlock (2 3/4" blade).

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I carry a spydie police and a large classic sebenza as my edc. The spydie has been capable of doing every cutting chore I put it to, and so far I've not come across a situation where the sebbie could do somehting the spydie couldn't. I don't, and I think most people don't, use their spydie's or other knives to the point of destruction. On the otherhand, I don't intentionally abuse my knives eg treat them as pry bars etc. Having said that, I am completely convinced that should the need for extreme use arise the sebbie would meet it with more aplomb than the spydie, and if it fails, the knife is so modular. Should the blade tip break send it back for a new blade. Should the handle get scratched send it back to be refurbished. Heck I'm in Hawaii when I fly to the mainland I'll simply check the blade through and carry the handles. Point is unlike a custom blade, the sebbie is a user. If you take pride in owning fine things go for the sebbie
 
my large regular sebbie is easy to disassemble and clean and smooth as glass. then again, it's a mayonised version. why don't you get a sebbie on the aftermarket, then spend another 85-100 (incl. shipping) and send it to Tom Mayo for some loving. YOu'll be surprised what you get...
 
Patrick, you BASTID!....
Quit posting those Obies.... you're making my spleen hurt! ;) :D
Damn beautiful knives.
 
Denix, get that Sebenza. It will last you a life time.
There other great & strong folders (Spyderco Lil Temp - Obenauf's - Striders), but the Sebbie has one thing that none of the others have - which is a bushing. This means that you never have to worry about proper pivot tension, or a pivot loosening. Everything is as tight as it can be, and still silky smooth action!

Ted
 
Hi Denix. One reason titanium is used in framelocks is the "memory" it has. A steel framelock will lose its bend over time and after several THOUSAND openings. A moot point since one will probably never get to that place. The cutouts on the framelock do thin the area down. On my JWS large Evolution framelock I mik'ed that cutout thickness as .050". As far as the amount of lock that actually engages the blade tang it mik'es out at around .070". One may then conclude that the framelock really has no more lockup than a liner lock, and as an aside to that my large Evolution linerlock has liners .065" with all .065" engaging the blade tang. Not much difference. Where the real difference comes in is when you grip the handle. On a linerlock your grip is not going to push the liner over further, thus reinforcing the lockup, but on a framelock your grip can hold or even push the locking bar over further which will reinforce the grip. As far as the cutout goes it is back torwards the end of the knife and the lateral stresses applied will be dissappated by the time they reach that point.

Bottom line........GET a sebbie!
 
I for one don't beleive the hand/ fingures reinforce the lockup on frame locks. Sure it sounds good but no ones hand and flesh doesn't have flex/softness to it to hold the lock bar closed. Btw the same false arguement can be used for the lockback.
 
I've been wondering about the strength for awhile. What got me started was a Chive I bought, with a frame that had been ground nearly paper thin at the relief.
 
Before everyone goes blasting benchmade,
we still haven't heard a definative review on the
Skirmish
 
Denix said:
Hi guys!
...What I need to figure out is whether a Sebenze is better than a Benchmade + a Spyderco, and I'm having a hard time convincing myself. I'm feeling that a Sebbie might be better than Benchmade or Spyderco, but not by as much as the price difference...

Help!

Thanks!

Guy
I have owned a couple Sebenzas over the years, but I carry Benchmades (805 & 722). I have alot of faith in the Axis-lock not failing, and as a "lefty", the ambidextrious lock works perfectly (as does the reverseable pocket-clip and dual thumb-studs of my Benchmades).
 
Take Glockman's word for it. He's liner-lock paranoid.
If Glockman trusts it, it's probably a good thing.......
 
Walking Man said:
Take Glockman's word for it. He's liner-lock paranoid.
If Glockman trusts it, it's probably a good thing.......
Actually, there IS one liner-lock that I still trust, and that's the liner-lock of the Al Mar SERE 2000. I never did have a problem with any of the 3 of the SERE 2000 that I owned as they were all solid and well-engaged. (If the blade of the SERE 2000 was a full 4 inches long, I'd still own at least one of 'em.).
 
I recall reading a field test that evaluated integral lock strength -- if I'm not mistaken, it was published in Blade back in the early 90's. I know I've got a copy, but I'm not coming up with it.

The field test featured a CRK Sebenza, and two other folders with higher price tags. The two other folders, being respected for their robustness, are primary competitors of the Sebenza. (I'm not being secretive here -- I simply don't remember what the other two folder were . . . :confused: .) The knives went through a battery of tests, but the last test is the one that is pertinent to your question. The review tried to hammer the knives into the side of a log with a mallet. Competitor #1 shatter at the first strike, and competitor #2 did the same with the second strike. The sebenza was last, and after 5 strikes, the reviewer was getting worried that he wasn’t going to be able to extract the knife! After he retrieved it, the sebenza operated quite nicely, considering the abuse. (BTW, if any of you recall the review details with more accuracy than I, please hop in . . .)

15 years ago, I used to ask a lot of, in hind sight, “stupid questions” about factory vs. custom / semi-custom knives. That field test was pivotal in helping me come to conclusions assessing the worth of higher end knives. IMHO, go for the sebenza. It’s a simply amazing tool.

Best of luck in your decisions.

Fooj
 
All of this, of course, masks the real advantage of the framelock versus the liner lock, which is reliability. Any gain in strength is just gravy.

Joe
 
Hi Joe. Pardon my ignorance, but why do you believe the Reeve Integral linerlock (TM) is more reliable than a 0riginal Walker linerlock (TM)?

I have found that I usually agree with your findings, but this has me confused.

In our testing, we have found that when a linerlock fails (defeats, not breaks), the failure is a slippage at the interface between the lock and the tang. When an Integral Linerlock fails (defeats, not breaks), the failure is a result of slippage at the interface between the lock and the tang. The same, though causes may differ.

IMO, The Sebenza is very reliable because Chris is an excellent maker and he pays a great deal of attention to the geometry, spring tension and relative hardness of the interface between the lock and the tang.

IMO, I do not think that the "squeezing of the lock" with the hand is strong enough to stop a defeat, except for a very small amount of force. Maybe Cliff Stamp's grip is strong enough to make a difference, I don't think mine is.

I realize this has nothing to do with ultimate strength, I'm just curious.

sal
 
I thought I was the only one who didn't believe the hand thearey on frame locks. I'm glad to see someone who knows way more than me thinking the same way I do. Sal I couldn't agree more with your hole post. If a most types of locks are done right they work very well.
 
Wow, as usual, lots of good info. Thanks for all the replies!

I'm surprised nobody's mentionned the usual answer to questions like these: "get all three, of course!" Which is probably what I'll end up doing in due time, but the wallet won't take more than 1 per year :grumpy:

I guess the consensus is that the Sebenza is stronger than I thought, which is good.

If I do go for the Sebenza, I'll definitely take Esav's advice. True North Knives is probably the best bet for me, considering my location.

And I hear ya Joe about lock reliability! I've read so many of your posts on the subject that it's turned into a mantra :D Any knife I buy has to have a a "Talmadge approved lock" ;)

It's a tough decision though... Most of my real knife experience is with SAK's and Spyderco. I've had a love relationship with Spyderco for over 3 years now, and I honestly believe those knives will never fail me. I personally don't have any experience with Benchmade, but you guys seem to think they're as good as Spyderco, which is pretty high praise in my opinion. The thing is that people rave so much about the Sebenza, you start to wonder "can it really be as good as that?"

Decisions, decisions...

Guy



Guy
 
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