Framelock VS Linerlock

G

gilbertoliver

Joined
Apr 11, 2010
Messages
17
I have a Buck 179 Mayo Hilo framelock and I like the design better than the linerlocks I have tried, what's you opinion??
 
liner lock as long as its sturdy and well made, makes closing the knife one handed much easier in most cases
 
Framelocks seem alot more secure IMO. Its hard to disengage while your hand is squeezing the handle.
 
I've never had a good quality linerlock knife really so I can't comment on a linerlock done right (Emerson maybe?).

The idea of a framelock makes more sense to me. The one downside is a lack of a scale on the framelock side. I have a big hand and prefer a beefier grip on my knives.

Most of my knives are lockbacks or axis.
 
Not much wrong with a well-designed liner lock, but the framelock by design is the stronger knife, IMO.
 
frame locks tend to be thinner since you dont have a scale on the lock side, and that is why I prefer them.
 
I like linerlocks as long as the lockbar is pretty stout:
htm06.jpg
 
Both can be excellent if well done. For example, the liner lock on the Spyderco Military is totally dependable.
 
They're the same thing, really... The whole "your hand is squeezing the framelock, so the framelock is stronger" thing is a fraud, in my opinion. If there is such force that it's going to disengage the lock, it's going to be no problem for the lock to push against the padding of your hand.
 
THG said:
They're the same thing, really... The whole "your hand is squeezing the framelock, so the framelock is stronger" thing is a fraud, in my opinion. If there is such force that it's going to disengage the lock, it's going to be no problem for the lock to push against the padding of your hand.
Click to expand...

I'd think so too. I'd also think that if you have to grip your knife that tightly to really push against the framelock, wouldn't you just be wearing away the lockbar prematurely, if you have to grip it that tightly on a constant basis?
 
THG said:
They're the same thing, really... The whole "your hand is squeezing the framelock, so the framelock is stronger" thing is a fraud, in my opinion. If there is such force that it's going to disengage the lock, it's going to be no problem for the lock to push against the padding of your hand.
Click to expand...

My own impression is that the framelock is not claimed to be any stronger than a linerlock but rather it is less able to be accidentally disengaged with your hand whilst using the knife.

On a linerlock folder your finger flesh can conceivably get wedged on the locking liner (more so on some designs - they vary) and push it out to the side during hard use, unlocking the blade. On a framelock, this tendency is countered by your grip on the lockbar squeezing it in to the middle.
 
Bill1170 said:
On a linerlock folder your finger flesh can conceivably get wedged on the locking liner (more so on some designs - they vary) and push it out to the side during hard use, unlocking the blade. On a framelock, this tendency is countered by your grip on the lockbar squeezing it in to the middle.
Click to expand...

Which is why I prefer linerlocks without the finger relief cutout, like the picture I posted.
 
Bill1170 said:
On a linerlock folder your finger flesh can conceivably get wedged on the locking liner (more so on some designs - they vary) and push it out to the side during hard use, unlocking the blade. On a framelock, this tendency is countered by your grip on the lockbar squeezing it in to the middle.
Click to expand...

lol I don't know how you guys are gripping your knives... But I'm holding a frame lock right now. The only part of my hand making (significant) contact with the frame lock is the first of the 3 sections of my index finger. I invite you to squeeze that part of your own index finger and feel how soft that is. I seriously doubt that if there were significant force going the opposite way of the frame lock such that a liner lock would disengage that the soft padding of the index finger is going to be able to do anything to keep it shut.

I think this whole thing is just something people have generally accepted over the years without giving it much thought.
 
For the most part I tend to use my knife with the edge making contact to what I'm cutting. Actually make that all the time and not just for the most part. I don't see how if a lock even failed, how the blade would close up on you unless...you're cutting with the spine, in which case you should probably not use knives again...ever.
 
Good post finally.
I also agree that a frame lock, if enough force is applied, would disengage regardless of how hard you squeeze it with your soft hands.
Also, not all frame locks and liner locks are the same. The Spyderco Military is a superb liner lock, the best I've ever had or handled; I think its on par with many frame lock designs out there.
Also, a properly made steel liner lock would take very long to wear out, to the point of failure; while a titanium frame lock, in many cases, would wear rapidly (or so I've found with my titanium liners at least).
So all in all, it depends on materials, design, hardness properties and eventually execution.
 
Frame lock for utter simplicity, and less chance of accidental lock release by user during use due to the ability to press lock bar in the locking direction just by gripping.

Speaking of liner locks, I don't prefer the exposed liners that a number of one hand closing fans like as opposed to more safely shrouded ones.

I would also like to add I love the auto lawks and would like to see a high quality version made.
 
they are conceptually and functionally identical.

the reeve integral lock (frame lock) is basically a very thick walker liner lock.
 
IMO the frame lock is Much Stronger and more Reliable. The 1 liner lock I do

trust is the Spyderco Military. I have several frame locks made by a few

companies and 1 maker.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top