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Why does anyone care how strong either is? If your hitting the spine with something you should reconsider your tool. I prefere framelocks for their feel.
Although it really doesn't matter.
For the most part I tend to use my knife with the edge making contact to what I'm cutting. Actually make that all the time and not just for the most part. I don't see how if a lock even failed, how the blade would close up on you unless...you're cutting with the spine, in which case you should probably not use knives again...ever.
The liner-lock in general is a fragile lock.
Every time I see a thread like this I say I'll never get involved with one of those again. Buy, here I am.
Bottom line, liner-locks are for people who don't need to worry about putting much stress on thier knife. These people believe that knives are only for cutting. And in truth they don't need any type of lock at all on thier knives.
You can tell me that knives aren't for stabbing or prying, that it's abuse, blaw, blaw, blaw. The reality is that there are folding knives that can be stabbed into solid objects full force without closing and that can be used to pry. And they're not all overgrown monster knives.
I don't now if my balls are too small, or if I haven't killed enough brain cells yet, but you wont hear about me doing any stabbing with a liner-lock. -Something I've done with frame-locks, lock-backs, and axis locks.
You are wrong to believe that manufacturer, or liner thickness makes much difference either. I've watched liners fail from most major companies and in thicknesses up to the Microtech Micro-bar.
If you're happy with having a liner-lock, good for you. But if you truly believe you have the same thing as a well made frame-lock (or axis or backlock) you are mistaken. The liner-lock in general is a fragile lock.
Where's my Kettle Corn and microwave?
In all seriousness, I like the feel of a good liner lock - a solid grip all around with a small to no cutout for the liner release. Along the lines of a Kershaw Blur or Emerson Knives. I like that full grip that you get with a liner lock, but I would trust a well made frame locked knife more.
stabbed into solid objects full force without closing and that can be used to pry. And they're not all overgrown monster knives.
I don't now if my balls are too small, or if I haven't killed enough brain cells yet, but you wont hear about me doing any stabbing with a liner-lock. -Something I've done with frame-locks, lock-backs, and axis locks.
Every time I see a thread like this I say I'll never get involved with one of those again. Buy, here I am.
Bottom line, liner-locks are for people who don't need to worry about putting much stress on thier knife. These people believe that knives are only for cutting. And in truth they don't need any type of lock at all on thier knives.
You can tell me that knives aren't for stabbing or prying, that it's abuse, blaw, blaw, blaw. The reality is that there are folding knives that can be stabbed into solid objects full force without closing and that can be used to pry. And they're not all overgrown monster knives.
I don't now if my balls are too small, or if I haven't killed enough brain cells yet, but you wont hear about me doing any stabbing with a liner-lock. -Something I've done with frame-locks, lock-backs, and axis locks.
You are wrong to believe that manufacturer, or liner thickness makes much difference either. I've watched liners fail from most major companies and in thicknesses up to the Microtech Micro-bar.
If you're happy with having a liner-lock, good for you. But if you truly believe you have the same thing as a well made frame-lock (or axis or backlock) you are mistaken. The liner-lock in general is a fragile lock.
A man that shares the same mentality about that blasted cutout. :thumbup:
Personally, I hate skinny knives especially skinny knives with that finger cutout. I can't seem to get a good grip on the things.
Oh yea, here's a Warsteiner Dunkel to go along with that kettlecorn.