Free Hand Sharpening

I use an ancient Buckmaster angle guide from time to time to re-set the bevel -- maybe once or twice a year -- other than this I sharpen freehand, no problems.
 
I take it using a mini belt sander(the WorkSharp) doesn't count? I don't use the guides, and I find it demands as much skill as any other system(very easy to round the tip or have an uneven grind). I just prefer to spend 10-15 minutes reprofiling(maybe 30 minutes for S90V and S110V, including cool down time) an obtuse factory edge to a mirror finish as opposed to several hours on my DMT stones.
And given the sheer amount of time it would otherwise take to repair a poorly sharpened katana(already took 2 days to finish one side), I feel glad to have power tools:thumbup:.
 
I've never done any other kind of sharpening. Freehand or not at all. Machines and jigs are for the weak! :p

(kidding! Mostly, anyway... ;))
 
I sarted out freehanding as a kid and wasn't very good at it. Bought a Lanski guided system about ten years ago, and as others have stated, it helped me learn more about propper technique and what works. I took that knowledge and applied it to free hand stones.

Then, thanks largely to this forum, I also learned how to sharpen with sandpaper and strop. Now I don't ever touch any guided systems, it's freehand all the way!

I know you can get some great edges on some of the better systems, but I strongly agree that being able to freehand is a must out in the field. Comes in handy at other times as well, like when I visit other people, and they ask me to sharpen something spur of the momment. Not only is it easier to EDC a little DMT two sided diafold stone than a big complex guided system, but even if I don't have my little stone on me I can always improvise with something else.
 
How do you guys that freehand sharpen recurves? I've got a g10 tyrade that needs an edge something awful, but all I have are DMT 8"x3" stones and I don't see anyway to make them work?

I saw that DMT has a rounded stone, but I hate to but a whole new set of stones for that. Do I just need to suck it up and get a rod system, or a sharpmaker?
 
Learned free hand at age 11, seen no reason to change.

I dislike all the so called magic gizmos on the market for sharpening knives. The only trick they pulll is getting money from your pocket into the gizmo makers pocket. One single stone and the back of your belt should be all you need.

Carl.
 
How do you guys that freehand sharpen recurves? I've got a g10 tyrade that needs an edge something awful, but all I have are DMT 8"x3" stones and I don't see anyway to make them work?

I saw that DMT has a rounded stone, but I hate to but a whole new set of stones for that. Do I just need to suck it up and get a rod system, or a sharpmaker?

If you use a recurve, you'll eventually want to get a round hone of some sort, or at least half-round. The ones from DMT did not do well for me. I prefer the Eze-Lap diamond rods. You can also use a wooden dowel with sandpaper around it.
 
If you use a recurve, you'll eventually want to get a round hone of some sort, or at least half-round. The ones from DMT did not do well for me. I prefer the Eze-Lap diamond rods. You can also use a wooden dowel with sandpaper around it.

I tried the sandpaper and dowl thing, but it just didn't seem to cut it. I may give it a another shot with a different grit. Going to look into those eze-laps too!!!
 
I do both personally, freehand is more for touch ups these days though.
 
How do you guys that freehand sharpen recurves? I've got a g10 tyrade that needs an edge something awful, but all I have are DMT 8"x3" stones and I don't see anyway to make them work?

I saw that DMT has a rounded stone, but I hate to but a whole new set of stones for that. Do I just need to suck it up and get a rod system, or a sharpmaker?

Personally, I avoid recurve blades altogether precisely because they're such a hassle to sharpen. I bought a few cheap round ceramic rods a little while ago for sharpening recurve blades, and they work pretty well for touch-ups. I just use them like a butcher's steel. You can find them for very cheap (I think mine were 4 rods for five or ten bucks) so that might be a good option to look into. Even if they don't work out well for you there's no great loss.
 
I sharpen on a DMT diafold to maintain an edge, followed by a few passes on a loaded strop. I do use my Edge Pro for reprofiling if I feel it doesn't meet my sharpness standards.
 
I sharpen my flea market knives on the handle maker (belt grinder). The more expensive stuff gets hand sharpened on a sharpmaker like jig that I made to hold 12" stones. I have seven large stones which cover the grit spectrum pretty well. I also have some 12" extruded platens which hold abrasive paper tapes. These platens also fit on my homemade sharpmaker like jig. I set the angles with a digital clinometer. I usually set the big jig at the same angle as the real Sharpmaker so I can finish up on the smaller rig.
 
I freehand. After about 18 months of continuous practice, acquisition of good equipment, and learning about where a strop comes in, I can now predictably achieve a scary sharp edge freehand. Occasionaly I goof and have to start over, but I know I will get it. I do use a Sharpmaker (which really should be called a Sharp Keeper) just because it is so handy at the quick touch up. Frankly, as I get better and better and freehanding, I expect I will ditch the Sharpmaker too.
 
Free hand with Diamonds all the Way!

I find it is more versatile, and as others mentioned a good skill to have, for field sharpening.
 
I learned free hand on a stone, went to a Sharpmaker, then beltsander, and now do all three, depending on what I need and how dull the knife is. If you sharpen a variety of knives and other tools, freehand is worth learning. You'll eventually run across something that can't be done any other way.
 
Freehand sharpening isn't hard at all. It just takes time, patience, a steady hand, and the ability to learn from your mistakes.

I have learned to freehand sharpen conventional V-edges, scandi edges, and various types of convex edges.

The great thing about freehand sharpening is that you become comfortable with many different types of sharpening materials. I can use a natural stone, an artificial stone, a sharpening stick, sandpaper on top of something soft or hard, a ceramic coffee mug, and basically anything that I can apply an edge to that has either grinding or honing properties.

I also believe that if you can freehand sharpen, you will probably be able to use any sharpening system...

I'll finish with a quote from Braveheart,

FREEDOM!!!!!!!:D
 
I love to freehand sharpen. I find it really relaxing. I think that all the guided gizmos are kind of a cheesy way to get the job done. It seems like riding a bike with training wheels. With the skills I have learned freehand sharpening and the dmt credit card stone/mini homemade strop I always keep with me I can always have a sharp knife with me.
 
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