Free spinning pivots: something needs to be done

Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,941
This is a topic that I think is relevant to anyone interested in folding knives of all kinds; no matter what, your folding knife needs to have a pivot mechanism, so this is a universal issue regardless of our taste in manufacturers, locks, etc.

The problem is this: free spinning pivots - by which I mean a folding knife pivot with a single male screw that goes into a female portion that is not fixed in place by way of a D or hexagonal shape, or does not have a torx/hex/flathead head. When any kind of threadlocker is applied, attempting to adjust the male screw results in the entire pivot mechanism spinning.

Why is this important? Well, for one, it's common to have pivots like this. Shirogorov knives are all like this, the body screws on Hinderer and Striders are, most Rike knives, Kizer, etc. I'm sure more can be named than I can think of right now, and anyone who uses the Alpha Knife Supply pivots in their custom knives will have this problem.. With the current flipper/strong detent craze, pivots are exposed to more vibration due to the force of opening that threadlocker is all but necessary on most pivot screws now. Unless you have absolutely incredible mechanical tolerances, eventually your pivot screw will loosen if there is no threadlocker holding it in place.

So at this point, you're left with two options: 1. don't ever use threadlocker and periodically tighten the pivot (unrealistic), or 2. apply threadlocker to the male pivot screw. Once you apply threadlocker and let it cure, you will no longer be able to adjust the male screw as the whole unit will spin. There are some hokey solutions to this problem, such as applying superglue to the very small gap between the female end of the pivot and the hole it goes through, or applying pressure to the female end with something like a rubber band or rubber glove.

Unfortunately, these don't always work. With stronger threadlocker, it will simply break the hold of the superglue (which if the tolerances of the pivot in the pivot hole are high, will likely not penetrate very far down). Using the rubber band/glove solution also is hit or miss because it can be very difficult to get it to grip the female portion well enough. Even when you heat the pivot up to loosen the threadlocker, it is still necessary to be able to turn the male screw without the female screw to break its hold, so you're left at square 1.

What can knife companies do? The more expensive solution is to make D shaped or octagonal female pivot ends that fit into a similarly machined hole, as Zero Tolerance/Kershaw does. However, it's as simple as using a two male screw pivot mechanism, or simply putting a torx/hex/flathead head on the female bolt portion of the pivot. I'm no insider, but I honestly don't see what the benefit is of not doing this. Cleanliness, maybe? That seems like an okay thing to sacrifice for a pivot you can actually adjust.

Maybe it's only me that constantly encounters this problem, but I've found it really frustrating lately because 99% of the time, the two solutions I mentioned above have not worked. Does anyone have a tried and true solution for this? And can you think of a reason why having a pivot like this is advantageous?
 
I've run into that issue more times than I can count. Hate it, hate it, hate it.
 
get a vice, clamp knife in vice, make sure enough padding is used to not scratch or crush it. use two torq drivers on each side and undo. thats what i do.

anyways, you are right, its lazy for knife makers to keep doing this. i dont think it will ever stop. some companies just dont care for 1 and 2, they think people will send the product in to be maintained.

i think when they manufacture something they leave out lots of stuff, they also dont think people will need to ever open them. its all about the money really.
 
Last edited:
That's good advice Mo, but a few companies do not give you that option.
The Katana, for example, only has the Torx screw on one side. The other side is smooth with nothing to grab.
Big time PITA for sure.
Joe
 
That's good advice Mo, but a few companies do not give you that option.
The Katana, for example, only has the Torx screw on one side. The other side is smooth with nothing to grab.
Big time PITA for sure.
Joe

Yes, this is the problem I'm getting at - Spyderco's or Lionsteel's have two sided pivots, which can be annoying to adjust, but at least you'll never be totally locked out of the pivot.
 
I gave up trying to lube my shiro because I was too lazy to go to the garage for a heat gun. Saved it for another day.
 
I gave up trying to lube my shiro because I was too lazy to go to the garage for a heat gun. Saved it for another day.

If I remember correctly, the female portion of the pivot screw on the 95's is proud of the scales slightly, which should make it easier to grip with something tacky like a rubber band. Hardly a consolation, but it will probably be easier than if it were totally flush with the handle.
 
There is the old open the blade up, torque to one side to hold the female side of the pivot, and adjust trick.
 
There is the old open the blade up, torque to one side to hold the female side of the pivot, and adjust trick.

I've had limited success with this, but it does work sometimes. Last night I tried this with a Rike knife that I had put some vibra-tite in and it cures so quickly that I couldn't get the pivot screw all the way in before it started binding. Torquing the blade fixed the pivot in place enough to get the last bit of thread screwed in.
 
I've had limited success with this, but it does work sometimes. Last night I tried this with a Rike knife that I had put some vibra-tite in and it cures so quickly that I couldn't get the pivot screw all the way in before it started binding. Torquing the blade fixed the pivot in place enough to get the last bit of thread screwed in.

I've had similar experience. Some times it works, some times it doesnt.
 
Here's what I was talking about on the Katana.
The other side will
Accept a Torx.....this side just spins. Been trying to center the blade for a month with no joy.
That side is actually recessed a little.
Joe
eb9dd010001aa68e67cf0796df2324a1.jpg
 
I've always given props to Cold Steel and OLD zt's for using a D shape female pivot. These days the market screams for "custom looking pivots" and all the other art knife junk that goes with it. Structural common sense goes out the window.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DMG
One of my hinderer's pivot turns when I open and close the blade.....pita..
some Spyderco's and ZT's have used "D" shaped pivots....love em!
 
My older Microtech Socom elite is a major offender. Especially since I dont have the proprietary tool. I would. Eedntwo of them. Basically I have to hold the back screw with my thumb and pinch the little tiny tri wing design on the other screw with micro pliers through a cloth so not to scratch it. It is the screw that you need a female tool to adjust, absolute nightmare. Thanks microtech for sending me a knife with a loose pivot that I need a special tool to adjust.

Other knives where I can use a torx on each side, not so bad.
 
My older Microtech Socom elite is a major offender. Especially since I dont have the proprietary tool....

Before I bought my MT drivers I came up with a temporary solution that may help you out. I made my own "bit" by kneading up some epoxy putty and pressing it into the pivot of the "propitiatory" screw hole, took it out and let it set. It worked for a good long while. Just be sure to oil the hole with a q tip lightly beforehand.
 
There are TWO solutions I came up with on the Hinderer XM-18 Folders that work to eliminate the need for a special tool, and ease disassembly and adjustments. But first you have to get the pivot screw out the 1st time, so make a spanner out of a US Nickle or pre-1982 US Copper Penny, and remove the screw.

So OK, you now have the Hinderer Pivot Screw Out (leaving the main Pivot in place is OK),...and you simply shorten the pivot screw maybe 2-1/2 to 3 threads, clean off any burs, and check for fit. I aim for shortening the length to be level with the flat bottom of the Pivot Slot, although a little lower does no harm. Once the length is level, with proper tension on the blade with no wobble, I remove it to lightly finish sand and brush finish the end of the pivot screw for a good look, and sometimes polish it as seen here.

ltnq1f5.jpg


Since these later screw threads don't hold onto anything anyway with the pivot fully assembled, you have NOT weakened the pivot in any way, ...but simply opened UP the area to accept a standard screwdriver blade! (and a FLAT sided Gunsmithing Screwdriver works best, ... especially one that fits the slot's length and width well. :)

I use a Jeweler's ring clamp with leather inserts to hold the screw when sanding or grinding the few threads off,...but a small vise with some scrap leather to prevent damage to the wide part of the screw can work to hold it for the shortening process. I've even done a few without a clamp, but the screw can get warm and burn your fingers,.... so I clamp them all now! :) I use a 240 grit and 320 grit 1/2 inch diameter drum sander on my Flexible Shaft Machine to do the shortening.

Oh,... if you don't want to shorten your original Pivot screw, I believe you can still order a replacement SS pivot "screw" from hinderer or their parts supplier. The original main part of the pivot is not available this way though.

Also, if you don't want to try this yourself, I've found the Hinderer 3-1/2 inch XM-18 "Skinny" Pivot Screw works well to do what I describe, when used in the original thickness 3-1/2 inch knives.

In the end, all Hinderer has to do is use shorter screws in all their knives with that pivot,...and the special tool is no longer needed! :)

Solution #2 is described in my thread below entitled "Folding Knife Pivot Interface To End Free Spinning Pivots" that I wrote in September of 2017. (link below)

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads...nterface-to-end-free-spinning-pivots.1517940/

I've often combined the two procedures on my personal Hinderer XM-18 Folders, because I've found with the ball bearing pivot interface, the Hinderer Pivot screw doesn't come out of adjustment for a long time, (even without Lock-Tite)....and if it does due to the shock of opening,... it can be adjusted with just my thumbnail in a few seconds. :)
 
Last edited:
I've used a small piece of Scotchbrite and a lot of pressure with my thumb to tighten down spinning screws. It only worked with moderate tightening though. The maroon Scotch has just enough texture to hold it. No moderation of the screw required.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top