Freehand grind?

I've really never used a jig. I tried one early on and I couldn't "feel" anything and I also felt limited in what I could do.

I think long-term it makes thing easier becoming proficient by hand. I'd assume it almost takes similar time investment to build and perfect using a jig than just buying 10 paint stirrers from home depot and spending a day grinding wooden blades.

That being said, No one is going to pay less knowing someone uses a jig, nor will someone pay more because you don't use one.
 
I grind freehand all the time. Don't forget work rests or other holding methods for freehand grinding. There's no "one way" to do things. Figure out what works best for you... or really, just keep on hunting for what works best.
 
I started making knives before there were any jigs so I learned to grind freehand. I am glad I did.
 
I use a combo of tilt table and completely free hand when hollow grinding. I completely free hand flat/convex grinds when using the platen

I use the tilt table as a rest when setting the hollow grinds, especially with smaller wheels and deep hollows, to make sure I don’t grind through the middle.
 
New knife maker here, I bought a grinding jig initially. Used it on a few mild steel blanks that I had. Never could get my grinds as nice as I would like them. I switched over to freehand grinding. Practiced on about 15 mild steel blanks and finally got the hang of what I was supposed to do. I finally ground some knife steel and was happy enough with the grinds to heat treat them and turn them into knives. Since there is a learning curve anyways I might as well start freehand grinding since that was the goal all along. Glad I took the plunge and did it.
 
Off the top of my head I can think of a few famous makers who use grinding jiggs such as Terzuola, Niro and Snody.

So just do what works for you.
 
Good morning, Jomama. Welcome to the forum.
Just letting you know that it's generally considered bad form to 'resurrect' an older thread like this. It's better to start a new thread and reference the older one instead of bringing the old one back.
I think the main reason for this is that replying to an older thread makes folks thinks there's an update, and they take the time to read the new posts and then get frustrated for wasting their time.
 
weo said:
Good morning, Jomama. Welcome to the forum.
Just letting you know that it's generally considered bad form to 'resurrect' an older thread like this. It's better to start a new thread and reference the older one instead of bringing the old one back.
I think the main reason for this is that replying to an older thread makes folks thinks there's an update, and they take the time to read the new posts and then get frustrated for wasting their time.
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sorry never posted a question before
 
If I'm just playing around with an idea, I'll grind freehand. I've been grinding blades for twenty some years. But once I develop a blade that I feel like I'm going to make many times, I turn to a Bubble Jig. The reason; I can write down the grind angles and the geometry of the blade and I will be able to reproduce the exact same blade many times over. Using the BJ is faster that freehand as well. No need to look at the bevel surface between each pass. It's accurate without looking.
I never grind false edges free hand and I know many accomplished makers who will agree, using this tool results in a false edge that looks machine ground.
If I'm grinding forged blades I use the BJ to control the angle of all surfaces so they all match up. I've not thrown a blade in the junk can for a lot of years. I got tired of wasting steel and wasting my time. Now at 80 that's even more important.

Fred
PS Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with freehand grinding I can do so myself. But I'm interested in results and I'm going to use the procedure that gives me the best results in the shortest amount of time. I feel this way when milling, welding, sharpening or any other task.
 
Jomama said:
do you have to grind a relief on back of tilt table?
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Yes. Your angle range will be very limited without a relief. Keep in mind that the tilt table concept has some drawbacks, the biggest one being that it will scratch the blade badly. You can get around it by putting tape on the tang, which slightly lifts the flat off of the table, but it doesn't 100% solve the issue. The second is that adjustments are hard. Being able to make adjustments on the fly such as with a well designed sled jig or going freehand (with or without the bubble jig) really helps.
 
I'm glad this one came back from the dead!
It's a topic that can raise up some good advice. The value of reading about people's process who've been doing it for a long time and/or have tried out a lot of things ain't lost on me. Good stuff!
 
Both! However I think your better off learning freehand first. The other way around and I feel like your just using the jig as a crutch and limiting your skills and knowledge.
 
Ok … ill chime in on the necro-discussion. From the beginning i decided to freehand, so have never used a jig. Ive done “ok”, but it seems like its a continuous and ongoing learning process. Seems like i really get the “feel” for it, but then i change/push things (longer blade (use a sacrificial tab at the tip for more control), thinner material (use a backing board or plate), much wider bevel (slowing the belt to really refine the flat of the bevel). Not sure if a jig would see one through all those transitions and variations?

I will say that blades like skinners, EDCs, and hunters, which tend to be shorter, and significantly thicker stock, seem to be easier to grind by hand … and so are maybe more amenable to using a jig? Just a thought…
 
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