Freehand sharpening Vs System sharpeners - whats better?

I've freehand sharpened my knives (and chainsaw, mower blades, axes, and other garden tools) for years. I remember some of the frustration learning to get good at it, but if you're into knives, I think it's really the only way to go. It's a lifelong skill you can use your whole life (save for when your de-knived upon entering the retirement home).

To each their own, but my recommendation is to get some stones and keep up your practicing.
 
If you are having success freehanding, then you should certainly hone that skill. It will teach you much more about sharpening than trying to learn how to use a jig system. As was stated earlier, success with the lansky/dmt is proper set up and it is less commonly known that the wobble that the hole allows affects success. My results improved to near perfect bevels when I started placing my index finger over the rod holding it down and to one side of the guide hole. As someone described earlier, the stone and rod need to set flush on a flat surface and this should be consistent from stone to stone. Lastly, you need to clamp the knife in exactly the same place and I argue on the same side of the knife each time you use the clamp taking care to tighten the screw precisely the same(I tighten it completely). All of these results will show when you get to the ultrafine stone and you get a fine polish down and across the entire bevel plane. Executed correctly, you can get scary sharp edges.

With all that said, in my case, I can do all of these things and chop a hanging hair(sometimes), but I can't even get a nominally sharp edge freehand. If I were you, I would stick with the freehand method and be proud that you can do it.
 
I can't seem to get to the point of hanging hair being chop. Do you strop it in leather afterwards
 
In case it's not obvious yet, the better way to sharpen is the one you're most comfortable using to get a consistently satisfying edge. :thumbup:

Where's that beating the dead horse smiley? :p
 
Freehand is more fun, systems (Edgepro) is more precise. I seriously doubt that even a very good free-hand could get the level of sharpness that an Edgepro can reliably duplicate time after time. That said, freehand is plenty good enough 99% of the time for me, and the Edgepro actually improved my freehand technique!

It's kind of like John Henry v.s. the steam engine...
 
azzkikr said:
I can't seem to get to the point of hanging hair being chop. Do you strop it in leather afterwards
Click to expand...

Let me be clear. I'm not cleanly cutting hanging hair. I'm swiping at it at an angle and when it catches the hair with a little drag, it cuts it. I don't think it qualifies as a clean swipe, but It's still cutting hanging hair.

Nonetheless, no I'm not stropping. I havn't figured out stropping either. I'm sure if I knew how to freehand, then stropping would be that much easier, but as of right now I'm clueless as to how much angle to stropp at and it only seems to diminish my results. I just finish on my ultra fine dmt stone(when I'm playing).

This is why I am a strong believer that the jig systems work well when you eliminate all of the discrepencies out of the process. If I wanted a polished edge at work, then I would put more emphasis on learning how to stropp, but the materials I cut most often at work don't agree well with a polished edge. I have a decent strop, but I need to order some decent compound. The sears stuff just clogs my leather up. When I get around to it, I plan on getting that yellow gold stuff or whatever they call it.
 
Freehand is the only way to go in my opinion. It's almost a lost art now, if you learn to freehand sharpen, you'll never regret it.
 
"SKILLED" I am not. I cannot get an edge on a knife that I haven't previously 'worked' over with my lansky. Yes, this is a major handicap. Now, I can file an axe with it between my legs to a scary sharpness. (But this a wire edge..still dang sharp for an axe after that breaks off)

So far my skill impairment allows me to get the best result from a mix or the two. Get a good edge going with the lansky...then finish up with with 2000grit sandpaper on a large softback book. I do sorely wish I could find some 3000 or higher grit paper. I guess I need to break the piggy bank and get a real strop and some compounds.
 
Brett,

Why is there a problem with using a water stone on D2 or 154CM? I recently purchased a 1000/8000 stone it seems to work fine on my knives so far. FOr what it is worth I sharpen only by hand and been doing so for 40 years.

Ken
 
Folks, each method has its place. On a bevel that needs reshaping, I don't think any of us can hold the angle freehand as precisely as a jig can. On the other hand, to touch up/polish an established bevel, it's pretty tough to replicate jig alignment to the exact bevel of the blade - freehanding is superior in this sense.

I do think you can get a sharper, more durable edge freehanded, but it takes practice.

cinteal
 
You may be having a problem with mainatining your blade angle on both sides of the blade which will lead to problems. Short answer, put a stack of coins on the left and right corners of your bench stone that equals the angle you wish to sharpen at on each side of the blade (say a dime and a quarter for 15 degrees). Then, as you set up for each swipe, take the time to check your blade angle against the stack of coins to make sure your where you should be for your blade angle. It's easy, it works, and it develops muscle memory with time. Give it a shot (you don't necessarily need to get all those higher grits to get your blades spooky sharp, just need consistency with you blade angle)!

Good Luck.

NJ
 
I've never had the opportunity to put one of my knives next to one that has been skillfully sharpened freehand so I don"t know. I can say this however. I have carried Spydercos for years and they come out of the box scary sharp. After years of practice I can reproduce that edge with a lansky and an old belt with some metal polish worked in it. If someone can get a blade sharper freehand my hats off to them.
 
I use several different systems and also can get a good edge free hand. However Once I have a knife sharp, it only gets the edgemaker Pro treatment. Keeps them shaving sharp without removing steel.
 
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