Freehand sharpening

I agree with mr-winkie01 about DMT diasharp stones. They have the added benefit of being pretty foolproof as far as stones go (they probably won't break or warp or wear out under any sort of normal use). The main problem I have with them is that they're so expensive.

If you want a less expensive option, Norton water stones are extremely effective and quite affordable. I have a 220 grit stone and a 1000/8000 combination stone from them and it's a great combination for knife and tool sharpening. Ice bear stones are also quite good and less expensive still, iirc.
 
I have been putting edges on blades for over 40 years and making them for over 30. I tryed just about everything in the book that will put a good edge on ANY blade. As I went along this trial, 100% of the gagits (set it up, have to have the right rod, angle, stone, flat surface) stuff went in the trash. (My sp. of "gagets" is what I think of them) After finding so many other items had so many limits, I just allways came back to a Norton India combination stone. I have had my first one (over 40 years old) still lookin new (They don't wear out, or scoop out like an ark stone, Or some diamond ones) It seems they get better with age. I have quite a few, but use my 8 in. one the most. The nice thing about them aside from a razor edge with ease, is a good stone can just be put in your pack and you can use it anywhere you end up. A short story about some of those Nortons; I went to a Gun/Blade show in Idaho about 10 years ago, and one guy had nothing but about 70-80+? 8 in. Nortons on a table, with a sign that said "I will sharpin any blade here for free" With so Many different types, hardness, lengths, and steels, He put a hair poper edge on every one. OH he also sold every one of the Nortons before noon of his first day there. So I guess that makes it not just my opinion. Enjoy edgy :thumbup:
 
2Edgy4u,

What, if anything do you use on your stones (oil, water, dry, etc.), and if oil, what type?

cbw
 
Depends on what you sharpen, carbon steels and softer stainless like 1095, AUS8, 440, or modern alloys like M4, S30V, ZDP?

If your not a steel junky like a few of us then a norton or some water stones would be a excellent choice, especially if you have mostly carbon steels. The norton coarse/fine india and a King 1k/6k would be a very respectable start to getting razor sharp edges.

Now, if your a steel junky and like your folders with super steels a good set of diamonds would be your best friend. A DMT C/F/EF would be a good set to start with, coarse enough to profile and fine enough to produce a keen razor sharp edge.

So tell us a little about the knives you have and the results you would like to achieve and we can get you pointed in the right direction.
 
Well I'll be sharpening blades made out of 1055, 1095, 154cm, 8cr13mov, d2, and possibly s30v, s90v. Results? as sharp as I can get them. Also, I'm not looking to spend as much as the dmt stones cost.
 
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DMT diamond stones. For real. And water. Just use a little spray bottle to keep them moist.

I have the coarse stone, and the two sided fine/extra fine. Very happy.
 
What does everyone here think of an extra coarse diasharp continuous? I never thought 325 was very coarse, but I only have a small interrupted hand-sharpener.
 
Budget? my first suggestion will run you about 60 dollars and the later will be about 150.

You could probably get away with a norton and water stone for now and it would work very well on most of the steels you listed. Your problem will be with S30V and S90V though, those steels have so much wear resistance your almost causing more wear to the stone than the steel.
 
knifenut1013 said:
Budget? my first suggestion will run you about 60 dollars and the later will be about 150.

You could probably get away with a norton and water stone for now and it would work very well on most of the steels you listed. Your problem will be with S30V and S90V though, those steels have so much wear resistance your almost causing more wear to the stone than the steel.
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hmmm well I wonder how long a dmt stone would last?
 
knifenut1013 said:
Longer than you :)
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To quite DMT:

"How long should the Diamond last on a sharpener?

It depends on how often you use it, if you use it properly, and if you keep it clean and properly stored. When used properly, kept clean and stored dry, DMT® diamond sharpeners will last a very long time. They do not last forever, but they last for years and years. If you use your sharpener as part of your daily work and use it many times a day, you will likely need to replace it in a few years after extraordinary service. If you use your sharpener to sharpen your kitchen knives every so often, chances are your sharpener will last ten or more years. Some of our customers report their DMT® sharpeners are still performing after twenty years of service! "

Not that it matter so much. I wouldn't sharpen my knives very often. The DMT stones seem nice. However I don't know if they would be worth it in my case. I don't see them getting knives any sharper then another kind of stones. Then again I don't know much about the subject. I've used Arkansas stones before and they seem to have worked well.
 
Is there any particular reason why you specifically want freehand sharpening? While it's peculiar, I get the same sense of satisfaction using a mini belt sander.
 
Noctis3880 said:
Is there any particular reason why you specifically want freehand sharpening? While it's peculiar, I get the same sense of satisfaction using a mini belt sander.
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I guess to have the ability to sharpen things without being guided. It feels like cheating.
 
Nothing lasts forever but truthfully do you think you could ever wear out any stone? I've used mine far more than average and in 2 years they have only become better, remember these stones need to break in. At my rate and with how I care for them I can easily see another 20 years of use.

The advantage to diamonds is speed and the ability to sharpen any steel. As you have probably noticed with arkansas stones they work slow and have troubles with harder or more wear resistant steels. With diamonds these issues go away and no steel is too hard or wear resistant to not be effectively sharpened.

Its all give and take though, you buy diamonds and you can sharpen any steel with ease and yield impressive sharpness by anyones standards. Buy norton or water stones and you will yield premium results from carbon steels, average with most "softer" stainless, and with enough skill and time might be able to get premium steels sharp.

Getting sharper than other stones? that's a complex question in itself. For carbon steels probably not, I always get better results with water stones or sandpaper. Stainless non PM steels, ceramics for finishing like the UF spyderco are near impossible to beat. PM steels, well.... diamonds rule that area.

DMT is a high quality product and you get what you pay for but like me you will most likely end up with a wide range of steels and find out not all can be sharpened the same way. Its why I have diamonds, ceramics, water stones, sandpaper, beltsander, MANY strops, and way more micro polishing compounds than I need.
 
For pure freehand I use a simple Smith's Arkansas stone (I think it's 8 inches) with 3-in-1 oil or the Smith's Honing solution.

To finish the knife I have a Spyderco Double Stuff which has the medium grit on one side and the fine ceramic on the other. Since the Double Stuff is ceramic it does not require oil or water.

I agree that there is that "good" feeling when sharpening free-hand. You can feel the edge and listen for the scrapes until it's all smooth and doesn't make a sound :)
 
knifenut1013 said:
Depends on what you sharpen, carbon steels and softer stainless like 1095, AUS8, 440, or modern alloys like M4, S30V, ZDP?

If your not a steel junky like a few of us then a norton or some water stones would be a excellent choice, especially if you have mostly carbon steels. The norton coarse/fine india and a King 1k/6k would be a very respectable start to getting razor sharp edges.

Now, if your a steel junky and like your folders with super steels a good set of diamonds would be your best friend. A DMT C/F/EF would be a good set to start with, coarse enough to profile and fine enough to produce a keen razor sharp edge.

So tell us a little about the knives you have and the results you would like to achieve and we can get you pointed in the right direction.
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I think I'm going to take the plunge on your suggestion of the DMT diamond stones. Given that I probably won't spend nearly as much time using the stones as you do, what size would you suggest? There's obviously a price difference. Thanks for all your suggestions!
 
I'd go 8x3 for two reasons 1) its a standard size of most all sharpening stones and large enough to handle bigger blades 2) besides the diafolds its the only size containing all grits so expansion is easier.
 
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