Freehand sharpening

[TX Archer]

I'd go 8x3 for two reasons 1) its a standard size of most all sharpening stones and large enough to handle bigger blades 2) besides the diafolds its the only size containing all grits so expansion is easier.

Thanks a lot. I really appreciate all your advice. I may not post much but I read a lot and you're very helpful.

 

[Jason B.]

Thanks a lot. I really appreciate all your advice. I may not post much but I read a lot and you're very helpful.

Thank you.

 

[Mr .44 Spl]

I'm going to insert myself into this conversation and ask a couple of additional questions.

I'm in kind of the same boat as the OP. I can use a Sharpmaker and DMT Aligner and get reasonable results. But I always feel like I don't really know how to sharpen a knife. I'm about ready to take the plunge into free hand.

If the largest blades I'm likely to be sharpening are on the order of 4" -5" would the 6" DMT stones be sufficient? (The reason I ask is the huge price difference between the 6" and 8" stones.)

If the 6" stones are sufficient, are there any issues with the double sided stones from DMT? With these you could have 4 grits for a fairly reasonable price.

What about the stones like the DuoSharp series that have a non-continuous surface? I would guess that they work slower, but are they as effective?

Thanks for the help.

 

[Phydeaux]

I use a Norton combination stone about the same vintage as 2Edgy4u (mine's only ~36 years old). It still works. I've tried some ceramic rods that mount in a V configuration, but I still like free handing with a bench stone. I use the Norton on just about everything and recently picked up a Spyderco ceramic stone to finish the edges on a couple of S30V knives that I have.

Be patient. Practice on some cheap knives.

One thing that helped me a lot was to watch one of my friends sharpen knives a couple of times over the years. Each time I watched him, I seemed to pick up on some little bit of technique or wisdom.

Ric

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

If the largest blades I'm likely to be sharpening are on the order of 4" -5" would the 6" DMT stones be sufficient? (The reason I ask is the huge price difference between the 6" and 8" stones.)

I've just begun using two of the double-sided 6"x2" Diasharp continuous stones (XC/C and F/EF). I personally feel they're plenty large enough for a fairly large blade, up to 5" or 6". Depending upon individual technique, I could see these working pretty well on larger blades too. I bought these for the same reason you mentioned, they're considerably less expensive than the larger Diasharp stones.

If the 6" stones are sufficient, are there any issues with the double sided stones from DMT? With these you could have 4 grits for a fairly reasonable price.

I have no complaints at all about my double-sided stones. In fact, from a usability standpoint, they're quite handy to just flip over and keep on going, when progressing between grits.

What about the stones like the DuoSharp series that have a non-continuous surface? I would guess that they work slower, but are they as effective?

I have two of the pocket-sized Duo-Folds, and one of the larger Duo-Sharp bench hones. They are still very effective, but the continuous surface stones from DMT will remove metal amazingly fast in comparison. It's all about the total surface area occupied by the diamonds. And, the continuous surface makes it easier to sharpen the tips of your blades, in particular. Have to be careful to avoid the holes in the interrupted surface stones (although I believe newer versions of the Duosharp bench hones have a small 'pad' of continuous surface on one end of the hone, for sharpening tips or other small tools).

Another thing, there's a 'smoothness' to the feel of the continuous hones, compared to the interrupted surface hones. Especially with the Fine/EF hone, the EF can feel almost glassy smooth under your blade. It seems hard to comprehend that diamond abrasive, rubbing against steel, can feel like this. That smoothness inspires confidence, especially when you can see how fast it works, and the hint of polish it leaves on the bevel.

I'll toss in one more thing. I've always used small, pocket-size hones for any free-hand sharpening I've done. My whole technique is built around holding the stone in one hand, and the knife in the other. I never use the hone on the bench or table. For this reason, I've really come to like the 6"x2" DMT Diasharps. They're just big enough to handle almost all typical blades, but still just small enough that I can hold it in one hand while sharpening, just as I've always done. I know it's a personal preference thing, but I really do like that.

That's my 2 cents' worth.

 

[JRR85]

Hello I'm new to the forum here, but figured I'd throw my opinion in as well on the subject since I have 16 almost 17 years of exprience freehand sharpening with Arkansas stones, Japanese waterstones and Diamond stones, as well as a few other odds and ends.

I would as others have already done before me recommend DMT Diamond stones to a beginner or novice as well, you can get a set of Course (325 Grit), Fine (600 Grit), and Extra Fine (1200 Grit) for around 90 US Dollars. I recently acquired a new set from http://www.smkw.com/webapp/eCommerc...+Whetstone™+Sharpening+System/W6EFC.html , that set will be everything you need to learn and produce some very good edges with untill you're comfortable enough to purchase other equipment to further yourself in sharpening.

 

[JRR85]

If the largest blades I'm likely to be sharpening are on the order of 4" -5" would the 6" DMT stones be sufficient? (The reason I ask is the huge price difference between the 6" and 8" stones.)

I personally can sharpen 10 - 12 inch blades on my assorted 6 inch stones, really it just comes down to technique and skill level. You'll have more than enough room though on a 6 inch stone when sharpening 4-5 inch blades.

If the 6" stones are sufficient, are there any issues with the double sided stones from DMT? With these you could have 4 grits for a fairly reasonable price.

I would go with the set I previously linked and purchase the Extra Course (220 Grit) only if you really need it for repairing extremely damaged blades, or if you're sharpening axes or other constantly and heavily abused tools.

I personally haven't found a better deal than that three piece set for the price, though you might be able to find something cheaper I suppose.

 

[KarlMaldensNose]

I sometimes struggle with the 8" length of my Norton India for kitchen knives. Another couple inches would be nice. I have a 15" horsebutt strop that has spoiled me.

What some are suggesting about technique and skill playing a part in whether 6" is long enough sounds right. My technique is to use one long, continuous stroke for the entire length of the edge, tip to heel. I feel it produces a more uniform bevel, rather than "patching" together a bevel by sharpening the edge in multiple sections. But using the section method allows for smaller stones to be used effectively, and saves money, at least in the short term.

 

[JRR85]

I produce a uniform bevel as well when sharpening long knives on my 6 inch stones, I don't sharpen it in "patches" or sections really. It's a learned technique showed to me and used with a large amount of practice that works well for me personally.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I sometimes struggle with the 8" length of my Norton India for kitchen knives. Another couple inches would be nice. I have a 15" horsebutt strop that has spoiled me.

What some are suggesting about technique and skill playing a part in whether 6" is long enough sounds right. My technique is to use one long, continuous stroke for the entire length of the edge, tip to heel. I feel it produces a more uniform bevel, rather than "patching" together a bevel by sharpening the edge in multiple sections. But using the section method allows for smaller stones to be used effectively, and saves money, at least in the short term.

I mentioned earlier, that my whole free-hand sharpening technique has been built on using small, pocket-sized hones (shorter than 6"). I adapted my sharpening 'stroke' accordingly. I figured out early on, that using what I suppose would be called a 'draw cut' stroke (heel to tip), diagonally, with the blade oriented corner-to-corner across the stone, makes the stone much 'bigger' (effectively). This has also been very effective when sharpening long blades (6" - 8") on the many different makes/styles of 'V-crock' style sharpeners, many of which have rods that are only 4" - 6" long. Even at this short length, the draw cut stroke allows one, continuous, sweeping stroke over the full length of a 6" - 8" blade. With the vast majority of blades, if they have any curvature at all, the actual contact point with the stone will be very small. You can adjust the stroke accordingly, to maintain contact in the central portion of the stone, along the full length of the cutting edge as you draw the blade diagonally across the stone.