Freestyle draw filers, step in here a moment please.

Wade Jones

Wade Jones

Joined
Nov 1, 2009
Messages
183
My first draw file edge came out pretty nice. The latest one is an exercise in frustration. The bevel on one side looks good, the other has a "wave" to it.
I'm guessing I'm tilting the file slightly on the one side. I'm trying to concentrate and move slower on the re-grind.

You freestylers have any secrets or tips for me?
 
How long is the blade? I seem to recall reading in some tutorial that you should support the middle or end of the blade as it could/would flex when draw filing. My blade is 1/4" and pretty short so I haven't noticed it, but that might be a cause.

I know you're not supposed to, but I find that keeping the file in contact on the back stroke helps me keep it level.

I'm cutting out an 18" Bowie for one of my next projects--that may be more of a challenge.
 
do a search for Nick Wheeler's draw filing jig. it was . . . well as Dreamy as he is. :D
also Green pete's set up isnt to shaggy either and both will make a consistant bevel on both sides. :thumbup:

Jason
 
Blade is short, under 3"

It was pissing me off so bad yesterday I had to walk away from it. :mad:

I was just thinking there might be some freestylers around here with some hints and tips, before I go the jig route.
 
I tend to do most of the blade with files. I do not use a "jig" all I use is a black sharpee to consistantly blacken out the blade to see where I am filing and work very slowly. do the 45 deg inital on my 2x42 craftsman and then file out my plung lines with a small chainsaw file.

works great for me and I dont ever make big mistakes on my plunge lines and I keep a relatively "flat grind"
 
As much as I can... I try to keep the file at a 45 to the length of the blade. (hard to put into words and hard to do on a short blade) Basically I try to keep as much of the file in contact with the piece as I can. I helps to avoid teeter-totter disease. If you were using a belt grinder, it would be called the 2" disease. I am willing to bet the wave is about an inch off the plunge line.... right. If it is, you may be digging in to much as you start your stroke and the leading edge of the file is biting harder than the trailing edge. Throw some scribing dye or magic marker on the surface so you can guage where the hills and valleys are. Use a VERY light stroke to level everything.

Just some thoughts... it would help to see the warp...

Rick
 
I started using a sharpie, and it's helping some.
And yes, it is about an inch off the plunge. I'd snap a pic, but I've started working it back some already and it's hard to see now. If you were looking at it from the side, the bevel comes straight out from the plunge, then dips a bit, and then comes back up. It didn't really look that bad... until I flat sanded everthing down, then it was really apparent. :(

Seems when I'm moving right to left is when it rears it's ugly head. Left to right looks pretty good.

I'll keep using the marker and go lighter and slower I guess.
 
How wide is your file? I will bet that it is about an inch wide. it is most likely that you are tilting the file slightly and digging the rear edge into the blade as you start your stroke.
 
Edit: :foot: Thats what I get for not reading ALL the posts before replying.
 
Last edited:
Mr. Bad Example said:
How long is the blade? I seem to recall reading in some tutorial that you should support the middle or end of the blade as it could/would flex when draw filing. My blade is 1/4" and pretty short so I haven't noticed it, but that might be a cause.

I know you're not supposed to, but I find that keeping the file in contact on the back stroke helps me keep it level.

I'm cutting out an 18" Bowie for one of my next projects--that may be more of a challenge.
Click to expand...

That was under the sticky of how to draw file IIRC.
 
Draw filing a blade that short ends up being more filing and less drawing. In such cases, the 1" line ( same as a 2" line caused by sanding belts) often shows. Start flat and don't dig in either edge. It works much better on a long blade.

The other problem encountered is the strong hand vs the weak hand. One side is being filed ( or ground) at a position and direction that makes the most of the file teeth. The other side will be guided by the other hand, and everything will be different. Most folks automatically start on the strong side, because it feels right. Next time start on the weak side ( same for grinding). You will have much evener sides that way.
 
Thanks guys.
You're right Stacy, my last blade was much longer and I didn't see this effect on it.
I spent a little time on it last night and it seems to be getting better.


Slow and steady. Slow and steady. :)
 
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