- Joined
- Feb 4, 1999
- Messages
- 5,786
Well, I have a nit to report on my little friction folder project... I settled on a Persian folder sort of design with an upswept blade. I screwed up drilling the original pivot hole (3/16") royally, so I removed some material and did it on a much slower speed and it worked really well! I now have a much longer tang extension as a result, but that's okay! Anyway, coming up with where to put the pivot so the stop pin will work is a challenge. i am obviously missing out on something big because this took me a long time and I still am not sure if i did it right. I don't know if it's my blade shape that is screwing it up of what. Hopefully the hole I drilled will end up being the right thing!
I used a big bastard file to grind the blade out, too. I ground the profile on my 6" bench grinder, but the actual bevels I did with a file. L-6 grinds SOOOOOOO much easier than D-2 I previously had, it isn't even a comparison! The problem with files is that you get chunks of metal, essentially splinters, frequently and they leave very deep grind lines. It sands fast, but I don't know how I am going to get those deep lines out...any ideas? I guess gentle filing with frequent checks for metal shavings in the file teeth would be the answer. Anyway, I was aiming for a flat grind, by this is almost impossible with a file. I seem to have gotten pretty close, though, with nice plunge cuts and a pretty even edge (still thick to withstand warping from heat treat). I think if I use a harp sanding block for finishing I can knock a little of the convexity out of the blade and end up with a reasonable flat grind. Hopefully I have removed enough material to insure that the knife cuts well!
I know from my experience with fixed blade finishing that the beginner always wants to leave stuff too thick! Anyway, my next step is to get the blade cleaned up and remove all those deep digs in the steel, then finish it up as much as possible. Then I will need to see if I can heat treat it myself or if I'd be better off sending it to someone to do it for me. I want to sen up with a temper line, but I don't know if it is worth it or not if it is a lot of trouble. Anyway, I am very happy with the blade so far, and if I can get the pivot problem worked out and a good handle together, then this will be one nice folder! Keep your fingers crossed! Some things I need input on:
1) heat treat myself (first time) or send it out?
2) Liner material? I have stainless that I could leave plain or heat color, as well as some titanium that I could leave plain or probably find someone to anodize for me. In fact, I may be able to find a power source to do it myself...I know someone with tons of junk in their workshop, and a power source may be in there somewhere!
3) Washers or not? My pivot is 3/16" in diameter and I have a 3/16" pivot pin that is threaded (bought from Kovals) so it is adjustable. I also bought some Nylatron (pretty stiff stuff) washers from Kovals that I could use. Any advantages/disadvantages in terms of a friction folder?
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My Knife & Sheath Pages:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/frames.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
Sheath Makers Referral Directory
agocs_s@dd.palmer.edu
Madpoet (Mel Sorg, Jr.) Tribute page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/madpoet/main.html
I used a big bastard file to grind the blade out, too. I ground the profile on my 6" bench grinder, but the actual bevels I did with a file. L-6 grinds SOOOOOOO much easier than D-2 I previously had, it isn't even a comparison! The problem with files is that you get chunks of metal, essentially splinters, frequently and they leave very deep grind lines. It sands fast, but I don't know how I am going to get those deep lines out...any ideas? I guess gentle filing with frequent checks for metal shavings in the file teeth would be the answer. Anyway, I was aiming for a flat grind, by this is almost impossible with a file. I seem to have gotten pretty close, though, with nice plunge cuts and a pretty even edge (still thick to withstand warping from heat treat). I think if I use a harp sanding block for finishing I can knock a little of the convexity out of the blade and end up with a reasonable flat grind. Hopefully I have removed enough material to insure that the knife cuts well!
1) heat treat myself (first time) or send it out?
2) Liner material? I have stainless that I could leave plain or heat color, as well as some titanium that I could leave plain or probably find someone to anodize for me. In fact, I may be able to find a power source to do it myself...I know someone with tons of junk in their workshop, and a power source may be in there somewhere!
3) Washers or not? My pivot is 3/16" in diameter and I have a 3/16" pivot pin that is threaded (bought from Kovals) so it is adjustable. I also bought some Nylatron (pretty stiff stuff) washers from Kovals that I could use. Any advantages/disadvantages in terms of a friction folder?
------------------
My Knife & Sheath Pages:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/frames.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
Sheath Makers Referral Directory
agocs_s@dd.palmer.edu
Madpoet (Mel Sorg, Jr.) Tribute page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/madpoet/main.html