Frosts Moras

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Jul 11, 2007
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What has been you experience with Frosts of Sweden Moras? I bought a Mora with a laminated blade. Two stainless steel Moras. And, two high carbon Moras.

If you've had some experience of your own, has it been positive or negative. Do you do anything to treat the blade on the high carbon Moras? I was told to stick the blade in a grapefruit or onion for four hours to put a patina on the blade. I respect the guy who told me this because he's from GB and has a load of experience with Moras.

Thanks
 
Mora's are real nice for the money, I have 3, #137,#2000, and #780. The laminated mora get very sharp but the edge will chip easy due to its high hardness, the 2000 (stainless) has fair edge retension and has the benifit of being stainless. The #780 is my favorite, it has a differential heat treatment that makes the edge hard and the spine soft, it has the best edge retension of the three and can stand up to some fair amount of prying without dammage.

Never tried grapefruit but a onion or some vinegar will do the trick.
 
I have a few Frosts, 711,740,760,780. Also have some Ericksson Moras, 510,545, They are all good, Ericksson tend to have the thicker blades. Vinegar works quite well for a forced patina on the carbon models.
 
IUKE12 - do you use white vinegar or apple cider vinegar? Right now I've got my three carbom moras and my Opinel stuck up to the hilt in a big onion. So, I guess I'll know in a few hours how well it worked.
 
I have a Frost Mora carbon steel. On the Sharpmaker I can get it incredibly sharp. For proetction of the blade, I wipe it down with mineral oil, and it has developed a fine patina. One of the great knives for the money.
 
I have a 2000 coming in on monday and I cant wait! I'll leave feedback after I cut some stuff. I will probably be taking this one with me to 4th of july BBQ Cook off. Do you know if it will make bbq taste better?;)
 
I have one frosts stainless steel and some Mora CS, and i do nothing to protect those blade against rust.
Maybe i will try vinegar for make a patina for the look.
 
mustard will also work heck if your ultra cheap grab a couple packs from the hot dog tray at the gas station and paint it on.
 
I used and onion and it left a mottled look like tree rings on the blade. I took them out of the oniln after 4 hours. So, I put them back in again to see if they change any. They look cool though - almost like they are Damascus steel.
 
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My first fixed blade was an Errickson (sp?- I'm not looking at it) Mora- the youth/scout model. I have several Frosts moras- 2 Swedish Army/ OD clippers (1 carbon, 1 stainless) and 1 of the slightly larger Swedish Army models. The quality on them is awsome, especially for the price. I have found that to be true of Scandanavian knives in general- so its not just a Frosts thing.

One downside, however. The steel is soft. I loaned one out, and tip was (from what I was told) damaged after it was stuck with a small amount of force (the type of force that shouldn't normally break a tip). Of course, the knife is still functional, and the borrower bought me a replacement. Now he has his own, slightly damaged, Mora.
 
mp510 - I understand the steel has a rockwell hardness rating of 59 - to 61 IIRC. Perhaps the knife tip broke because it was defective?
 
mp510 - I understand the steel has a rockwell hardness rating of 59 - to 61 IIRC. Perhaps the knife tip broke because it was defective?

Or more likely because it's too hard, not too soft. A soft blade would most likely bend well before breaking.

My Erikssons seem pretty hard to me.
 
Or more likely because it's too hard, not too soft. A soft blade would most likely bend well before breaking.

My Erikssons seem pretty hard to me.

It was more of a roll/bend- not a break as in snapped off. I used that word a tad liberally in my original post. Maybe that particular knife was too soft.
 
It was more of a roll/bend- not a break as in snapped off. I used that word a tad liberally in my original post. Maybe that particular knife was too soft.

If the blade still performs like others of the same steel, I would say it was a good heat treat. I had something similar happen to my 780, about a 1/16 of a inch at the very tip bent to the side while prying on a log. It was my fault because the stab was to shallow but I bent it back and it looks like new, and this knife still out perform's my other mora's.
 
My father and I have used one as a shop knife to throw whatever at since he found one in Norway many moons ago. They've all held up good (Carbon Models) and do what they were disigned for.....to cut.
 
Carbon Mora knives are freakin' awesome. They actually perform as good as my $400 handmades (they just don't look handmade).

If you don't have the patience to let them patina naturally, try a combo of vinegar & tabasco sauce. You can get some wild patterning by shaking some drops of tabasco onto a vinegar stained blade.
 
I sunk the blades in a large onion for six hours and then after they dried for awhile I smothered them with mustard. I am very happy with the results I got. I'll try and get some decent pictures and post them. So far, I'm very impressed with these knives.

Here are the picture as best as I can get them. Notice how the light works on the end picture.
 

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This is what my viniger patina (and a whole lot of use) looks like. The hairs are proof of how sharp you can get a carbon Mora on a simple fine ceramic Spyderco benchstone.
SplittingHairs4.jpg

SplittingHairs2.jpg
 
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