Frustrated Using a Sewing Awl stitcher

Fort Henry Custom Knives

Fort Henry Custom Knives

Joined
Nov 17, 1999
Messages
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Can anyone help me get started on using the Sewing Awl stitcher? I have a printed table of instructions from the Tandy catalog but it makes no sense to me... probably just me but I can't understand it.

Anyone have time to either write out the directions for the first stitches (so that a newbie like me can get it) or heck - I will even call someone if they want to walk me through it.

Thanks
 
I have never tried one of those, I use 2 needles going two different directions. I think the famous Gary Graley uses one and he does some awesome leather work!!! Look in the Sheaths and Such section of this forum, he has some turorials that might help you.
 
Mike, I got mine from Tandy. SOMEHOW I got the first stitch to take but really don't know if the following stitches are coming out correctly. I've got about half done.

I did look at the Tutorial that Gary posted and it did help.

I will try and take a pic of the stitches tomorrow and see if I can post them somewhere for some advice.
 
I have used the awl sticher, but prefer to use a saddle stitch (Using two needles pulling through the same hole). It has worked out faster and produced tighter stiches. The awl stitcher was just to clumsy for me - or I was for it, not sure. Check out some of the videos which can give you great ideas.
 
If I had known you wanted one I would have GLADLY given you mine. I just can't even come close to getting as nice of stitch with what you are using , as I can with two needles, and belive me I've tried.:mad: In my opininion, be glad you can't figure it out, call Tracy Mickley, and get some harness needles.
Matt
 
My suggestion would be to try to get your money back on the sewing awl, or, at least, throw it away. It manually does a 'lock stitch' like a sewing machine. Hand stitching is stronger and looks better with just a few feet of practice. You need one 'how to' book - -
and a few tools - - -
harness needles - - -
an overstitcher for marking where the holes will be--
a groover to make the groove the overstitcher will mark - -
an awl for poking the holes marked by the overstitcher - -
and some thread and some wax.

All of which is available in a kit - - -
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/searchresults/11189-00.aspx?feature=Product_6&kw=groover

Plus, you'll need one of these - -
a stitching pony
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/searchresults/3132-00.aspx

I can't say much for the awl. And unwaxed thread is better than pre-waxed, but it's a start.

If you're anywhere near Dallas, Texas, I'll be glad to show you how.
 
I have bought most my leather supplys from tandy and they are really expensive unless its on sale. 100 BUCKS for a couple needles and a grover and awl is outragous . I bought a thonging chisle and waxed linen thread 2 colors for 18 bucks total that was 50 yards of thread that was on sale for 3 bucks a spool and the chisel is a must like 12 bucks but wow it makes sewing easy. kellyw heres a sheath i made my 3 one
HPIM0701-1.jpg
 
See if this helps - suppliers listed below - Gary Graley is the only crafter I've known in the last 48 years of leather crafting that can make one of those stitch awls work - even then though a saddle stich for most is faster and stronger since if one side of stitch gets cut the otherside won't fail....
http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_leatherstitch.html
http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_stitchpony.html
When using 5 cord linen thread order some single 0 (ought) Osborne egg eye harness needles

Below are suppliers:
Veg/Bark Tan Leather - I order the 8/10 oz Tooling-Holster or 8/10 oz saddle skirting - back can also be ordered for $1.00 more per sq ft, but there is less wastage so the cost is equivalent, plus you get the cleanest most consistent leather by buying backs.
Wickett & Craig - www.wickett-craig.com - my own favorite as well as the favorite of such sheath luminaries as Paul Long, Dave Cole, and Sandy Morrisey....

Dyes, all types of leather including some exotics, hardware, etc.:
Siegel of Ca - www.siegelofca.com
Leather Factory/Tandy
Mid-Continent Leather Sales Company (800) 926-2061 - http://www.midcontinentleather.com/

Linen Thread - 5 cord left or right hand twist is a good all purpose thread:
Campbell- Bosworth: http://campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=linen - I have not used the less expensive Hungarian thread myself but reports that I have received from others who have state that it just fine and costs half as much as the Barbour's.
$20.00 plus for thread may sound like a lot but you get a full pound for that price, the smaller rolls sold by others work out to about ten times that figure when purchasing a comparable amount......

Tools: Cheap but OK (older pre-1990 - tools in the Craftsman brand are better - watch for them on ebay and other such sites):
Leather Factory/Tandy - the Craftsman brand

Tools: Better - Osborne and other brands of better quality tools:
Mid-Continent Leather Sales Company (800) 926-2061 http://www.midcontinentleather.com/
Campbell- Bosworth: http://campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=linen
Leather Factory/Tandy and Siegel also sell Osborne tools

Tools: Best:
Jeremiah Watt - www.ranch2arena.com
Expensive but worth it - made by a master saddle maker and a heck of a nice guy!

Gomph-Hackbarth Leather Tools
10754 N. Martineau Road
Elfrida, AZ 85610
520-642-3891
Hackbarthtools@hotmail.com

Robert Beard: http://robertbeardtools.com/index.html

Gore Tool Route 1
Box 306-B Caddo Mills
Texas 75135-9801
800-859-8338

McMillen Leather Tool Company
864 Four Waters Drive
Sunrise Beach, MO 65079
573-374-7880

Barry King
http://www.barrykingtools.com/

Yes it's not "cheap" always to purchase supplies, but IMO get the best - anything else is second or third rate and not worth it in the long run..voice of much experience...........
 
First of all I'm right handed so all instructions reflect that.

After determining placement of stiching line, groove then use overstich wheel
to determine stich per inch and mark hole placement. I drill the hole with 1/16 drill bit on a small drill press for ease of stiching.

1 First hole, push needle with thread half the length of needle thru first hole,
thread is now sticking out left side of leather to be sewn, now we need the
proper amount or thread for the left side of the stich. If the stiching line is
4in long you will need 3 times that length or 12 to 16 in of thread.
Pull this amount thru the needle and leave it hanging.
Now pull the needle back thru to the right side leaving the excess thru the first hole on the left side.

2 second hole, push needle thru hole to base of handle, pull back half way
creating a loop next to the needle, pass your left hand thread thru this loop
pulling it all the way. Holding tightly onto the left hand thread,
slowly pull the needle back thru the hole. As you pull slowly you will draw the

left hand thread thru the hole onto the right hand side. Carefully hold both sides tightly
and pull the left thread back till the looped portion is in the center of both of your pieces of leather.
You have now compleated stich one, you should not be able to see any of the looped thread creating the stick from either side.

Clear as mud?????

to me what makes perfect hand stiching is consistent placement of stich holes,
drilling the holes perpendicular to your work, and last of all, use that overstich wheel to condition you work after you've compleated the line to be
stiched.

Not made many knife sheaths but have built 100 plus holsters of my design.
Knife making and sheaths are next in a long line of things to learn.

Leadfoot
 
Don't know about being famous, though my kids do look up to me with awe
or is that a sad sounding aww, ;) well, it's one of those :)

And yep, that's awl I've used since starting making these things out of leather
around the late 80's or so.

BUT, I don't ever use the little tiny spools, those are a joke to me at least and a
royal pain. I do similar to what leadfoot says, use enough thread that it will make
it's way around the project, ball park is folded in half and then lay that length a little
more than 1 1/2 times the length around the stitching area.

I've not had any stitching come free, in fact I cut a sheath in half a while back, as
I didn't like the retention it provided, I screwed up when cutting the pattern, but I
thought it would be ok, it worked, but I wasn't thrilled so I made a new one and
then cut the naughty one in half, just as a reminder to myself and you can see
the threads in the cutout section even after cutting, they're still snugged down tight;

edited to add that the sheath pictured here was about 80% complete, the edging needed to be
finished and then the outer coat of Atom balm wax applied, but, since I ended it's short life, there
wasn't need to finish it completely...

IMG_0145.jpg


IMG_0146.jpg


and in the one tutorial I do have some photos of how the awl thingy works
if anyone needs additional photos or has questions, feel free to email or post.

Thanks,
G2
 
Last edited:
wild rose thanks for all the links . Gary you make a dam fine sheath I need a few lessons. If you look up thats my 4th sheath ive made its not bad and im getting better with each one i do but run into small problems mostly cuzz i have no leather tools but a thonging chisle and a couple stamps and a rivot setter, 3 needle and thread. I have knothing to make a grove and i think it would help any advice ?? Im all ears. kellyw
 
Thanks Kellyw, as you've found, it doesn't take a LOT of tools to get the job done,
I have a small foam block that I put the main tools in, helps to keep them handy
as well as I can see if one's missing and find it before it gets lost.

As far as a groove maker goes, you can do well with the end of the bone folder tool
to make a 'groove' impression along the top of the sheath, one leather maker even
uses his thumb nail while the leather is damp and rides his thumb along the edge.
He's a tricky rascal!

That sheath looks mighty good for a 4th effort! very solid looking and with the fasteners
on either end, should last a long time!
From the photo can't tell if you used glue on the sheath too? Either way one thing that
pops out would be your edges, and you can get them pretty close to even with a sharp
knife, I'd recommend drawing a line to help you keep things even.
Then use some sheets of sand paper and just drag the sheath's edge across that, keeping
the sheath up right, progressively smoother sand paper but at first something a bit coarse
to remove some leather and make the edges even.
Lastly I would then dye the edge, burnish it with a bone folder, dye it again and burnish
and then apply some Gum tragacanth and let that soak in and burnish that and then lightly
sand with 800 or higher grit.
As mentioned there are some photos and other tips in this Thread in the leather section
which may help clear things up some.

G2
 
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