Frustrated with convex edge

W

WVHILLS

Gold Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
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1,830
Ok I just put a hair poppin convex edge on my GW, no problem:thumbup:. However putting a super sharp convex edge on my CGFBM is a different story... It will slice paper but its no where close to shaving sharp:thumbdn: I started out with 100 grit sandpaper, then moved to 150, 220, 320, 400, then 600. Thats as high as I could find at my local hardware store. So is it just that the edge of my FBM is too thick? or am I doing something wrong? I can post pics later if that would help anyone to help me
 
Also I am unable to find a leather strope anywhere... I called and left a message with armoralleather to see if Mr. Pucket could make me a good one.
 
the FBM will take a lot of time and effort. i took a break and did this over a couple days. overall i think it took me about 5 hours, but i wasn't very good back then.
 
i have that knives plus strop and it works pretty well.
you could probably find higher grit paper online, but i'm not sure where. there was a thread about that a while ago.
 
WVHILLS said:
Ok I just put a hair poppin convex edge on my GW, no problem:thumbup:. However putting a super sharp convex edge on my CGFBM is a different story... It will slice paper but its no where close to shaving sharp:thumbdn: I started out with 100 grit sandpaper, then moved to 150, 220, 320, 400, then 600. Thats as high as I could find at my local hardware store. So is it just that the edge of my FBM is too thick? or am I doing something wrong? I can post pics later if that would help anyone to help me
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I have been working on my FFFBM edge and I had to thin it out quite a bit (i.e take the convex edge bevels higher than original)

IMG_3140.jpg


It is now shaving sharp so I'll probably stop at this as it's still got to take the abuse of being a chopper.

IMG_3142.jpg


But yeah... time and patience are required...

You managed to sort out your GW edge to your tastes... so you shouldn't have a problem with the FBM... it's just all on a bigger scale of course. :D
 
WVHILLS said:
Ok I just put a hair poppin convex edge on my GW, no problem:thumbup:. However putting a super sharp convex edge on my CGFBM is a different story... It will slice paper but its no where close to shaving sharp:thumbdn: I started out with 100 grit sandpaper, then moved to 150, 220, 320, 400, then 600. Thats as high as I could find at my local hardware store. So is it just that the edge of my FBM is too thick? or am I doing something wrong? I can post pics later if that would help anyone to help me
Click to expand...

You should be able to shave easy at 600. Drop back down to 320 and do another 50 to 100 strokes per side to fully form the convex. Then go up through the grits to 600 again. I am betting you never went all the way to form a burr with the 100 grit. If you did and used decent care afterwards on the next grits the knife would be sharp. No way around it.

This system if done properly simply can not fail to produce a sharp knife.
 
WVHILLS said:
I started out with 100 grit sandpaper, then moved to 150, 220, 320, 400, then 600. Thats as high as I could find at my local hardware store.
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Automotive stores sell finer sandpaper for prepping bodywork, right up to 2000 grit.
 
Justabuyer said:
You should be able to shave easy at 600. Drop back down to 320 and do another 50 to 100 strokes per side to fully form the convex. Then go up through the grits to 600 again. I am betting you never went all the way to form a burr with the 100 grit. If you did and used decent care afterwards on the next grits the knife would be sharp. No way around it.

This system if done properly simply can not fail to produce a sharp knife.
Click to expand...

I agree. It may also be that you are inadvertently rounding the edge as you tire (lifting the spine while the edge is still in contact with the sandpaper).
 
Justabuyer said:
You should be able to shave easy at 600. Drop back down to 320 and do another 50 to 100 strokes per side to fully form the convex. Then go up through the grits to 600 again. I am betting you never went all the way to form a burr with the 100 grit. If you did and used decent care afterwards on the next grits the knife would be sharp. No way around it.

This system if done properly simply can not fail to produce a sharp knife.
Click to expand...

I have been holding the blade at about a 13 degree angle, would this affect the "bur" ? can I go back down to 100 and reform it?
 
my biggest fear is wearing away too much of the edge, gonna keep tryin though
 
soup_monger said:
I was lookin on Hand American the other day and it said "60,000 grit"...

Typo? :confused:
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If there is a typo its prolly mine.

It would be interesting to try to tell the difference between 16,000 and 60,000 grit

one is extra extra extra extra smooth and the other extra extra extra extra smoother. LoL
 
You might want to try puting your paper on a leather covered strop. It is a harder surface and you can use more pressure without rolling the edge.
 
WVHILLS said:
using two mouse pads sstacked on top of one another, hardly pushing down at all though. Should I try it with just one?
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Yes, two pads is probably too soft. Some people think even a single thick mousepad is too soft, they use a leather backing. Even a thick magazine could work.
 
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