Frustrated!

Thank you for the responses, everyone! After reading all of your suggestions, I came to the conclusion that the issue is probably a combination of too much pressue on the hones, and the angle difference between the old angle guide and new hones. I am also convinced that an angle finder and some sort of magnifier would be worthwhile tools for me to invest in before giving it another go.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a decent quality angle finder, and magnifier? What power of magnification is ideal?
 
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The only angle guide I would recommend is the CATRA laser goniometer. For magnification it really pays to spend the extra on something like the veho digital microscope, otherwise you miss a lot of detail.
 
knifenut1013 said:
The only angle guide I would recommend is the CATRA laser goniometer. For magnification it really pays to spend the extra on something like the veho digital microscope, otherwise you miss a lot of detail.
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Higher tech, higher priced items like the laser goniometer and digital microscope you mentioned are things I would definitely consider investing in later on down the road. For the time being, I am looking for something that works well, is fairly inexpensive, and can be purchased locally. In other words, on my way home from work today :)
 
A 30x would be enough to see the burr and other small details. As for angle don't worry about it, your using a guide.
 
knifenut1013 said:
A 30x would be enough to see the burr and other small details. As for angle don't worry about it, your using a guide.
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30x? Ok sounds good. As for the angle finder, my main purpose for that is to give me some idea of what angle the DMT hones are sharpening at with the Lansky clamp, in relation to what is actually printed on the clamp. I also have a brand new Gatco clamp with which I would like to do the same. I understand there is some variation there, not to mention I would like to reprofile my S30V L.U.D.T. down to 20 degrees inclusive at some point in the future, so I would like to know if I can hit that 20 degree mark or not.
 
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When the knife is locked in the sharpening tool and don’t move at all – and when the sharpening angle is locked – the law of psychics rule - and - it cannot be anything else than a perfect flat edge.

If you have problem with sharpness – something is wrong.

A, Do the knife’s move during the sharpening process? If so, the edge will not be perfectly flat.

B, do you use to high pressure? Did the guide rod bend a little? If so, the edge will not be flat, it will be irregular convex.

C, is your sharpeners to aggressive? If they are new, they probably are very aggressive, and if point 1 and 2 also are involved – you have a big problem to get the edges flat. Use very little pressure, perhaps only the weight of the sharpener…. It will take some time – but the edge WILL be perfectly flat. It cannot be anything else.

• Two flat and smooth surfaces who meet in a low angle = sharp.

1. Flat is necessary to get it real sharp = a guided tool and the law of psychic rules (use very little pressure).

2. Smooth decides by the last sharpener you use on the flat surface. (Check out your sharpeners, are they perfectly flat, how aggressive are they)?

3. Meet = the two surfaces needs to meet each other properly, (grind until you have burr!)

4. Low angle = you have decided an edge angle and use the tool to get it, and this angle is locked = no problems with the low angle.

What I can see, you need to check point 2 and 3. Point 1 and 4 is probably ok.

Thomas
 
Ok so I picked up an angle finder (Home Depot) and a magnifier (Radi Shack) yesterday afternoon, and last night I started by taking some measurements. First I measured each of the angles on the Lansky angle clamp, without a knife inserted, using a DMT Diafold hone. Each measurement result was exactly 2 degrees less than the angle stated on the angle clamp (stated=30, actual=28, etc.). Then I placed my L.U.D.T. in the angle clamp, tightened everything up as if I were about to sharpen the blade, and measured again. This time each measurement result was exactly 3 degrees less than the angle stated on the angle clamp (stated=30, actual=27).

With that information in mind, I decided that I was going to try sharpening my L.U.D.T. again, and that I wasn't going to stop until I felt it was sharp enough, no matter how long it took. I clamped my L.U.D.T. in the Lansky angle guide, grabbed the EC hone, and began grinding away at the 20 degree mark (actual=17 degrees). I used VERY light pressure this time, even lighter than before, and checked for a burr often. I was surprised at how fast I was able to raise a burr with such light pressure, and long story short, got MUCH better results this time around after working my way through the C, F, EF, and EEF hones.

After finishing with the EEF hone, I began stropping on bare MDF with 6 micron Diapaste, then 3 and 1 micron. Now, as far as stropping goes, I am an amateur, however I have had a lot of practice recently; enough to know what it feels like when I am doing it right. So, my first question is, if I am finishing on the EEF hone, is there any real point or benefit to stropping with with the 6 micron Diapaste before moving to 3? My results were good, but not where I would like them to be yet, so my second question is, If I am still seeing scratch marks with the naked eye after the 1 micron Diapaste, does that mean I need to go back and spend more time with the 3 micron or perhaps the 6? Anyone have a rough estimate of how long it can take to bring out a mirror polish in S30V?
 
S30V is slow to polish unless its at a lower hardness.

Using the 6 Micron after the EEF hone is correct. The hone with a fixed abrasive cuts deeper so the paste that is a loose abrasive needs too be slightly coarser to properly grind the scratches and prep the edge for further polishing.

At the end of using the 6 Micron you should no longer see scratch marks from the hone and only those being made by the compound. Repeating the stropping and watching for the same changes with the 3 and 1 Micron compounds will get very close to a mirror finish on balsa but it probably still looks a little foggy?

To further refine the scratch apply 1 Micron compound to a quality leather strop, changing the substrate changes the performance of the compound. I typically used HA 1 Micron spray on leather but the DMT paste will work its just the leather can get "sticky" as you strop a edge.
 
knifenut1013 said:
S30V is slow to polish unless its at a lower hardness.

Using the 6 Micron after the EEF hone is correct. The hone with a fixed abrasive cuts deeper so the paste that is a loose abrasive needs too be slightly coarser to properly grind the scratches and prep the edge for further polishing.

At the end of using the 6 Micron you should no longer see scratch marks from the hone and only those being made by the compound. Repeating the stropping and watching for the same changes with the 3 and 1 Micron compounds will get very close to a mirror finish on balsa but it probably still looks a little foggy?

To further refine the scratch apply 1 Micron compound to a quality leather strop, changing the substrate changes the performance of the compound. I typically used HA 1 Micron spray on leather but the DMT paste will work its just the leather can get "sticky" as you strop a edge.
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Ok good. I think what I saw before I had to quit last night was what you meant by the term, "foggy". If I could describe it, I would say it looked as though the bevels had a layer of polished transparent glass over them, and the microscopic scratches were underneath this layer, shining through. Strange to say the least. Thanks again for the tips! Also, FYI, looking at "the first sharpening" about a month ago was the inspiration for what has now become an obsession of mine. Thanks!
 
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