Full Flat Grind ??

chavez556

chavez556

Joined
Jan 10, 2011
Messages
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I have some blanks I cut out of .160 thick 0-1,and the blade height is 3/4". So I scribed the line on my edge (.80 ). What I want to know is will I have to do a full height flat grind ? Also how do I determine on lets say a blade that is 2" high, how tall my grind lines should be if the thickness is .160?
 
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It all depends on what kind of knife you are making. For a general use knife I would certainly grind all the way to the spine on a 3/4" wide blade or it would be too much like a wedge.

Think of blade shapes as triangles. An axe head will be short and broad while a kitchen slicer will be long and narrow. Like I said, it all depends on what you plan to use the knife for.
 
A common misconception is that there is some specific angle that you have to grind your bevels for a flat grind based on thickness or profile. The angle of the bevels can be whatever it takes to get the geometry and look you are shooting for. Start your bevel and begin working it up the blade towards the spine. When you get it where you want it, stop. Yes, if you took at 1/4" piece of stock and only ground a 1/2" tall bevel, it will be way too thick and not slice well. And a full height flat grind on a 1/4" thick blade will be more obtuse than the same grind on a 1/8" blade of the same profile. That's just part of the art of design and material selection for indented purpose. That same 1/4" full flat grind will likely function much better as a camp chopper than the 1/8" stock.

--nathan
 
It has always been my understanding that a FULL flat grind goes all the way to the spine. As for a 3/4" wide blade that is .160" thick, I would definitely take the bevels all the way to the spine and depending on the use of the blade I would take the edge down to .005-.020" before applying the final bevel.
 
It is a bird and trout shape that will be meant for EDC, or camp knife.

You guys are the best. Thank you for the quick response!!
 
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