Full Tang with Carbon Steel?

James, I'm rather new here, and being unemployed at the moment my opinion doesn't hold much weight since I don't have the cash for new toys.

I for one don't go out for too long, and I'd like cpm3v.

if it's gonna be hidden pins on the tang, I'd say coat the tang.

Scratches on a user knife mean nothing, I have my own wet/dry paper and would use it.

the beginners knife maintenance kit is a great idea, I'd say just print up some basic care instructions or tips for beginners and send them with the knife. I know when I first started out with knives I would have loved some basic info.
 
Skimo said:
James, I'm rather new here, and being unemployed at the moment my opinion doesn't hold much weight since I don't have the cash for new toys.
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Doesn't cost anything to share your opinion. :) This isn't a for sale thread, in fact I don't have anything up for sale at the moment. Just clarifying some ideas.
 
G'day Mike

Big Mike said:
The fact that you’re making high carbon steel knives for the likes of us speaks of users, and us users seek out high carbon steel blades for there toughness and edge holding ability; those that demand stainless steel blades are a different breed.
I'm not exactly sure I know what you mean by this Mike. Would you mind clarifying this for me?



Kind regards
Mick
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I think the term "high carbon steel" is fairly meaningless outside someone trying to sell you something. It's as banal as "surgical steel".
 
SouthernCross said:
G'day Mike

Big Mike said:
The fact that you’re making high carbon steel knives for the likes of us speaks of users, and us users seek out high carbon steel blades for there toughness and edge holding ability; those that demand stainless steel blades are a different breed.
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I'm not exactly sure I know what you mean by this Mike. Would you mind clarifying this for me?
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It just seems to me that most on us here on this sub-forum seem to prefer the toughness and edge retention associated with high carbon steel blades.

Not that there is anything wrong with the stainless steels used in knives these days, in fact there are many very good stain resistant steels available to knifemakers, and some excel at getting the best out of these steels.

It just seems to me that the majority of the bushcraft crowd represented here in the W&SS sub-forum likes the more traditional high carbon knife steels, and are not the type to be put off by a little patina in their blades, in fact many are proud to show off well used knives.

Even the makers here seem to cater to this demand and make us the kind of knives we long for.

Granted, there are many knife enthusiasts that prefer the corrosion resistance and perceived lower maintenance requirements of stainless steel, but I do not think those are a majority here.

Personally I like the higher alloyed tools steels, A2 and 50-100B (when properly heat treated) are some of my favorites; all of the toughness of the simple high carbon steels but with a little better edge retention.

I will also confess to preferring stainless steel knives for everyday kitchen use and when fishing in salt water, not that the high carbon steel blades don’t do well, but the stainless steels are a bit more forgiving in these corrosive environments.

The bottom line is that stainless knife steels have come a long way from the “silly putty” like 420 steel of yesteryear, but I feel that most of us here like our high carbon steel blades.




Big Mike

”Scaring the tree huggers.”

Forest & Stream
 
James, if you go with the outdoor market to sell your product you will find probably 99% of your customers will want straight carbon steels like the 10X series also 5160. Plus carbon tool steels like A2, O1 and D2.
I understand where Big Mike is coming from with stainless steels. I've tried many times to convince customers to go with 154CM and CPM 154 (the two SS I use) but they only want carbon steels. Some have and are very happy with them. Those two SS I use are my favorites. I prefer them with smaller knives and my deer knife. Both are tough, hold an edge very well and are easy to sharpen. Next to those, for a hunting knife, D2 is the best IMO but if you want low maintance for game prep, 154CM or CPM 154 is the way to go.
Scott
 
cybrok said:
Isn't that the whole point of Bushcraft and survival? ;)
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Heck yeah! :)

baldtaco-II said:
I think the term "high carbon steel" is fairly meaningless outside someone trying to sell you something. It's as banal as "surgical steel".
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"High-carbon" and "Stainless" are two classes of steel. Generally speaking, a cutlery steel is called "stainless" if the alloy contains 13% or more chromium, and often significant amounts of other elements as well. Most people agree that "high-carbon" means it has greater than .7 % carbon, and little if any chromium or other alloying elements. Tool steels fall somewhere in the middle, chemistry-wise.

I would never attempt to sell a knife without clearly identifying exactly which alloy I used to build it by the recognized trade name. (1095, D2, whatever.) The only recycled steel I use is worn-out Nicholson files, because I've worked with it enough that I know how to do deal with it and can guarantee the knives with confidence. Other than that, I strictly use brand new steel from reputable suppliers. No old saw blades, leaf springs or lawn-mower blades, no guessing, no voodoo, no baloney. And no, I'm not going to enter any "steel snob" debates... this is just the way I've chosen to work. It's easier for me to learn if I know exactly what I'm dealing with, that's all.

Big Mike said:
It just seems to me that the majority of the bushcraft crowd represented here in the W&SS sub-forum likes the more traditional high carbon knife steels, and are not the type to be put off by a little patina in their blades, in fact many are proud to show off well used knives.

Even the makers here seem to cater to this demand and make us the kind of knives we long for.
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That, sir, is precisely the point of this thread, and why it's in this particular sub-forum. :)

Scott, thanks for your input, I certainly respect your opinions! I've learned a lot just from reading your posts, and reviews of your excellent knives. I'm a high-carbon guy myself, but I'm eager to learn about tool and stainless steels as well. I'm working mostly with D2 and CPM154, respectively... when my stock of D2 is used up I will be switching to CPMD2.
 
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G'day Mike

Thanks for clearing this up :thumbup:

Now that I know you were referring to the majority of regulars here, I understand where your comming from.



Kind regards
Mick
 
A) Hard to go wrong with a good quality carbon steel.

B) It's not patina it's character and I have no problem with it.

C) A forced patina is not character, I would prefer to let it happen naturally.

D) see answer to B

E) I think a good satin finish is the best a knife can have.

F) Why would a kit be needed? I've got oils and rags that I clean my other toys with.
 
The vast majority of my knives are a high carbon steel of some kind or another. Just as long as its not too hard so that the tip breaks when you're digging out a hole. I like the blade to be almost spring like flexible to be easy to sharpen and yet hold a good edge and be tough.
I don't like coatings for the most part. They can hide rust. Patinas are a different matter,they can be very nice to look at without hiding a problem.
I like full tangs as long as the handle and tang are flush together making a smooth edge and the blade is a little wider than the handle to keep the finger from sliding onto the blade.
A mirror polish is nice for keeping clean and corrosion free but it is also more costly and reflective. It might be nice as an option.

Thanks for wanting to listen to our opinions.
 
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