Fully Convexed Folding Knife?

Or go with a Full Flat Grind... Spyderco Militaries, Strider SnG, Sodbuster, AG Russell Cowboy...
 
jayz5000 said:
I would a fully convexed BLADE to clarify.
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A full convex grind is not what that guy in the video is talking about. He is talking about flat or hollow grinds with a convexed section.

As I said before full convex grinds, that are thickest below the spine and thin towards it, are rare. They are called Appleseed grinds also. Usually found on high end handmade knives.
 
Full convex

appleseed.jpg


Flat ground with a convexed portion (exaggerated and the transition from A to B would be smoother)

mikegrind.jpg
 
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I don't think my opinel is thicker below the spine. It is certainly convex, however. Is there some other distinction I'm not understanding?
 
I think it's common for there to be significant variation of grind definitions (or any definitions, for that matter).

I think the distinction here is "full convex" vs "convex". The Opinel being the latter.
 
pinnah said:
I think it's common for there to be significant variation of grind definitions (or any definitions, for that matter).

I think the distinction here is "full convex" vs "convex". The Opinel being the latter.
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Actually, I believe an Opinel IS full convex. It is thickest below the spine. At least mine is. Its subtle, but its there.
 
Full convex does not necessarily mean that it has to be thicker below the spine, though it can be. Opinels are a full convex, but I'm pretty sure it's still a continuously diminishing thickness down to the edge.

Edit: Just grabbed a No.7 and clamped it tight in the parallel jaws of my calipers and it was contacting squarely at the spine--not down from it. Not even a smidgen. But it's a full convex.
 
Yeah the primary grind on Svords is convex, but the factory edge is flat ground.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Full convex does not necessarily mean that it has to be thicker below the spine, though it can be. Opinels are a full convex, but I'm pretty sure it's still a continuously diminishing thickness down to the edge.

Edit: Just grabbed a No.7 and clamped it tight in the parallel jaws of my calipers and it was contacting squarely at the spine--not down from it. Not even a smidgen. But it's a full convex.
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Well, for the sake of science I'll go with what your calipers say, :thumbup: but mine shows the slightest thinning near the spine.

And your point about "continuously diminishing thickness" is an excellent one. Point taken!
 
Seems like the Busse NMSFNOs are full convex, possibly all the Busse NM (Nuclear Meltdown) knives although I'm mainly thinking of the NMSFNO.. (doh, not a folder though..)

I second the vote for the Ken Onion version of the Work Sharp, can't get much easier and faster than that..
 
marcinek said:
On the Peasant? Not on mine.
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It's very shallow, both due to the thin stock and the relatively low amount of grinding. Also, some variability likely occurs since I'm pretty sure they're ground by hand. If not much pressure is applied to a slack belt or the slack region is short (such as between a platen and contact wheel) then the degree of convexity is reduced and appears much more flat. That being said, I haven't checked them in a while but about a year and a half ago (when I last actually checked to confirm) they were all slightly convex in the primary grind. It just wasn't by a ton.
 
jayz5000 said:
Where could I find one of these? Do I have to delve into the custom realm to find one or are there any production ones out there?

Here is a link if you don't know what I'm talking about and why I want one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZSjeqGeo7Q
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I sure liked this Youtube and I agree with the basic message, go convex!

The Opinel's are full height convex and affordable.
They are great slicers and can also cut deep into harder materials like wood, after setting the edge a little bit thicker than the factory edge.
I have an Opinel #9 and the factory edge needed to be sharpened away.
After setting my own working edge, it's an incredible cutter for the money!

For a higher end folder in powdersteel, the Fällkniven range is the way to go, but the factory bevel needs to be convexed!
This is done by using the Fällkniven DC stone and then finishing on finegrit wet/dry sandpaper on stiff leatherbacking.
Honing is done on the leather, loaded with sharpening compound.
I don't use sharpening compound as I can get Autosol Chromepolish from the nearest gas-station.
Works just as well!

For Youtube convex sharpening, the videos from Virtuovice are worth to watch, but his stones are very expensive.
That's why I use the Fällkniven DC stone and wet/dry sandpaper.
Not as sofisticated as Virtuovice or the Proffesionals, but it works for a low cost.

Beltsanders have been mentioned and they are very useful for a total makeover of a blade, but they need very light hands not to overheat the edge.


Regards
Mikael
 
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