Fully shaped and finished?

C_Claycomb said:
What files do you recommend he use for cutting the bevels in hardened 1084?
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big ass mill bastard
9ZnsAnp.jpg
 
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C_Claycomb said:
Don’t use foil for 1084 or other oil quench steel. It will interfere with the cooling rate.
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I probably will, I still recommend it for any other thermal cycling besides the austenize, and quench. I've never left it on during that part personally. Though I know there are a lot of people that like to use anti scale for that.

Well, except for some small coupons that I was trying to run a test on (unrelated to seeing if they would hardned in a foil pouch). It did still harden, but that wasn't what I was trying to test, and I have no way of personally checking rockwell, or anything. I would probably avoid doing it like you said.
 
Simular question.....
I'm sure different steels behave differently, I'm tried to wrap my head around why my A2 blades broke from Bos Heat Treating?

I did grind them to about .015" bte before treating.

one was an early blade, I had a slight dip into the bevel before heat treating.
After heat treating my bevel grinding looked great, it was smooth and flat.

Could I have introduced a stress point because of the slight depression from the heat treating?

Is that why some do all bevels After heat treating?
 
I am wondering if there were any coarser scratches left in the blades before they were heat treated? It's easy to miss a deep scratch in the steel if the scratch pattern is all in the same direction! A2 is air hardening steel, so it's not a super shocking quench like it would be in Parks 50 or Brine. Most go to .020" at the edge before HT, but others have gone with thinner bevels. I've had a lot of blades from Bos done over the years with no issues. It is the Bos/Paul Farner in Idaho at Buck Knives, correct? There is another BOS heat treating in Ohio?

Grinding bevels post HT is more to minimize warping and to remove any decarb that may occur. Many find hardened steel grinds more cleanly than softer steel and get better grinds post HT.
 
Taz said:
I am wondering if there were any coarser scratches left in the blades before they were heat treated? It's easy to miss a deep scratch in the steel if the scratch pattern is all in the same direction! A2 is air hardening steel, so it's not a super shocking quench like it would be in Parks 50 or Brine. Most go to .020" at the edge before HT, but others have gone with thinner bevels. I've had a lot of blades from Bos done over the years with no issues. It is the Bos/Paul Farner in Idaho at Buck Knives, correct? There is another BOS heat treating in Ohio?

Grinding bevels post HT is more to minimize warping and to remove any decarb that may occur. Many find hardened steel grinds more cleanly than softer steel and get better grinds post HT.
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Yes Idaho.
This was my first time with them. They were very responsive, but Idk where I'm going next? I heard JT is back, up and running.

* I'll be more mindful of the direction of the scratch patterns
My other non A2 blades I finished finer before HT, so hopefully they are ok
Is there a difference between a deep scratch and a depression before heat treat.
That, and the thin edge is all I can think of as to why it might of been my fault
 
The deep scratch will have a sharper side to it and be more likely to cause a crack versus a dip which is more gradual. I wonder if the steel was overheated at all when cutting/grinding it, which can cause issues?
I use both JT and Bos with no issues with either. Bos was quicker and less expensive and can do longer blades up to 30+ for stainless blades. I started doing my own carbon steel heat treat lately after getting a kiln/PID and quench oil and tanks set up.
 
Taz said:
The deep scratch will have a sharper side to it and be more likely to cause a crack versus a dip which is more gradual. I wonder if the steel was overheated at all when cutting/grinding it, which can cause issues?
I use both JT and Bos with no issues with either. Bos was quicker and less expensive and can do longer blades up to 30+ for stainless blades. I started doing my own carbon steel heat treat lately after getting a kiln/PID and quench oil and tanks set up.
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Before treatment I didn't concern myself with heat?
However, I free hand grind my blades. I do not wear gloves.

I'm positive I didn't overheat after heat treat...... And if I did, would that Not make them less like glass? Haha.
Pretty much the opposite of what I had.

Thanks for letting me know the depression wasn't likely a stress riser spot
 
Crag the Brewer said:
Before treatment I didn't concern myself with heat?
However, I free hand grind my blades. I do not wear gloves.

I'm positive I didn't overheat after heat treat...... And if I did, would that Not make them less like glass? Haha.
Pretty much the opposite of what I had.

Thanks for letting me know the depression wasn't likely a stress riser spot
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I'm confused on what actually happened to the blade? It snapped? What exactly snapped it?
 
Blankblank said:
I'm confused on what actually happened to the blade? It snapped? What exactly snapped it?
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Without going into it again too much......
I brought it up here briefly, but mostly talked about it with the guys over at BCUSA.

My Bos heat treated thin (.015" bye), Very Sharp A2 blade broke like glass.
It was literally three tiny taps, setting up the wood to be battoned. I didn't even really hit it yet.
The blades came back looking great, no warps.

The main thing that brothers me about them, is I got no confirmation as to What they did.....and no testing. Nothing but a shipped box with golden and purple blades back.

I sent them a mix of
A2
3V
AEB-L
All labeled/engraved with the heat treating I wanted.
Did I get that? Idk.....

They were very responsive back to me, saying I could ship them back for another tempering..... Or I could do it myself.

So far I broke 2 out of the three A2 blades.

Just trying to wrap my head around everything, and I'm leaning towards all my bevel grinding After heat treating.



 
C_Claycomb said:
What files do you recommend he use for cutting the bevels in hardened 1084?
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I've never filed a whole knife after heat treating.......but.
I did reprofile my SYKCO 1311 after I removed it's paint.
It had Horrible chatter marks from their machining. Looked like a F' Beaver chewed it out.... Haha.

I brought a large diamond file from Amazon. It's coarse. Works Very well.
Cheap.
I now use it a lot, I'm going to buy a backup
 
It sounds to me like they messed up, and didn't temper your blades at all.

That's, honestly got to be on them.
 
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