Funky hunter fighter!

Joined
Oct 13, 2005
Messages
1,236
I finished this one this morning it is hand forged from W2 claycoated and quenched in oil.
O.A.L is 10" with a 5 1/4" blade to the guard
Handle is dyed and stabilized box elder burl with red and black spacers
The guard is satin finish wrought iron.
As usual all comments are welcome, thanks for looking.
Bob
Dyedhunter.jpg

Dyedhunter1.jpg

Dyedhunter2.jpg

Dyedhunter3.jpg
 
:eek:
Well... another great knife...
I noticed you pinned the handle to the hidden tang.
Did you finish the blade, fit the handle blank, drill it for the pin, heat treat the blade, and put the whole together?

Did you dye the handle woodyourself?
 
Nice knife!! That burl is really nice looking
Where did you get spacer material that thick??
 
:eek:
Well... another great knife...
I noticed you pinned the handle to the hidden tang.
Did you finish the blade, fit the handle blank, drill it for the pin, heat treat the blade, and put the whole together?

Did you dye the handle woodyourself?

The blade was already heat treated and etched then wrapped with cloth and taped then i made the guard then epoxied on the block and then ground and shaped sanded and polished. No i bought the block already dyed and stabilized from David Peterson
Bob
 
Bob,
That's my kinda pig sticker! Nice job!:thumbup: Looks like you could use a little higher finish on the handle though in my opinion. I like 2000grit and then buffing w/ fabulstre. It's not too late for that, but it's yours not mine...
Matt
 
Thanks John!
Matt i can only buy up to 1500 grit around here this is at 400. Thanks for commenting!
Bob
 
I like it, Bob! Really nice blade shape and taper, and nice guard treatment. This is one of the more personally appealing multi-dyed pieces of burl I've seen.
 
I like it, Bob! Really nice blade shape and taper, and nice guard treatment. This is one of the more personally appealing multi-dyed pieces of burl I've seen.

Sorta reminds you of them t shirts we used to ware way back when!:D
Thanks Mike and Will
 
The blade was already heat treated and etched then wrapped with cloth and taped then i made the guard then epoxied on the block and then ground and shaped sanded and polished. No i bought the block already dyed and stabilized from David Peterson
Bob

But then, how did you pin the block to the tang? :confused:
Did you drill the heat treated tang?
Was the tang left annealed?
Sorry to drown you in questions, but that's an issue I always wondered about, and didn't ever make a hidden tang with pin because I didn't know how to do it correctly... :(

PS: with clay hardening, IMHO is MUCh better not to go with too fine a polish, least of all a mirror polished blade.
400 grit looks great.
I anyway never go over 600 grit with plain carbon steel.
 
But then, how did you pin the block to the tang? :confused:
Did you drill the heat treated tang?
Was the tang left annealed?
Sorry to drown you in questions, but that's an issue I always wondered about, and didn't ever make a hidden tang with pin because I didn't know how to do it correctly... :(

PS: with clay hardening, IMHO is MUCh better not to go with too fine a polish, least of all a mirror polished blade.
400 grit looks great.
I anyway never go over 600 grit with plain carbon steel.

The whole knife tang and all are heat treated with the tang hole pre drilled.
The handle block is mortised out then measured and marked on the outside
for the pin hole and drilled. I have never been able to get the handle to fit perfect.Hence the spacers, add as many spacers in the colours of your choice
and the thickness you need to make the pin just snug. Epoxy up the spacers, fill the handle with epoxy put it on the tang and instal the pin. Wipe off exess epoxy and let cure. And i don't nessesarily no how to do it correctly either this is just the way i do it.
Bob
 
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