G10 liner with unstablized wood- Bad idea?

flatblackcapo

flatblackcapo

Joined
Mar 25, 2012
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Is it a good idea to try to use a g10 liner with unstablized hard wood? This will be a small full tang fixed blade with a 3.5" handle. The wood is well cured walnut. I would be using Gflex epoxy and flared tube attacment.
 
Personally, I'd have no reservations about it.
 
I have done it with black walnut and red g10 and it is used in the kitchen and has performed just fine.

I must say I really am liking Blade Bond epoxy. It is easy to use, tough as nails and affordable.

When used between G10 and wood, it is has proven to be a winner.
 
You will be good to go.

I'd clamp everything together {with wax paper or tin foil between} or against something flat as sometimes the glue up will warp otherwise flat material
 
Thanks you guys. Adam I will check out the Blade Bond epoxy.
Daniel, I will have to use the wax paper, all my tin foil is being used for hats at the moment. :D
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
You will be good to go.

I'd clamp everything together {with wax paper or tin foil between} or against something flat as sometimes the glue up will warp otherwise flat material
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Just to note - don't clamp hard. Too much clamp pressure will squeeze out all the resin and make a glue starved joint. Flatten the two surfaces on 100 grit paper and glue up using small and light pressure spring clamps. The assembled scale will be virtually impossible to separate.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Just to note - don't clamp hard. Too much clamp pressure will squeeze out all the resin and make a glue starved joint. Flatten the two surfaces on 100 grit paper and glue up using small and light pressure spring clamps. The assembled scale will be virtually impossible to separate.
Click to expand...

I agree! I even prefer the clamps with the yellow vs orange {accents}as they grip lighter. They come in big bags at most hardware stores. I sort through the bags and mostly use the smallest ones.

I've just noticed that with liners or more complicated liner/bolster glue-ups that during the first stage my scales will sometimes warp from the glue up. I have everything dead flat before... but it's a tiny issue that only takes a minute to sand out. They always go on the knife just fine... this only happens when I am adding thin liners, liners between a bolster, etc.
 
Thanks Stacy & Daniel. I have a big bin of those yellow spring clamps. . . One can never have too many clamps! :D
 
I found that G10 holds far better with CA thick glue rather than epoxy. I scuff the G10 with 120 grit.
Frank
 
flatblackcapo said:
Frank, Do you still use epoxy to secure the scale to the knife?
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I do the same as Frank with the CA glue. I then use epoxy to secure the scale to the knife. I make a bunch of divots in the g10 that go through to the wood. This gives the epoxy more to grab onto.

 
Thanks Shane - I like the way that is done. I'll start using that technique for liners. It will make liner 'n scales just like scale only... I LIKE IT!! :):thumbup:

Ken H>
 
Thanks, Shane. Those holes are sure to give a good bond for both scale to knife and liner to scale. Thanks to all for your help.
Kevin
 
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