G10 slipjoint

M

Mike Fennessy

Joined
Dec 19, 2005
Messages
326
Here's a slipjoint I just finished. It's a little over 7" oal. The bolsters are so big cause I'm going to engrave them. I'm getting sick of buying crappy imports to practice on (wrong steel, wrong size etc). Bolster/liner is milled 7075 alloy until I get the whole process down, then I'll worry about working with 416 and soldering. Opinions and criticism very welcome. Thanks for looking. :)

edit: this is the epoxy and fiberglass, jade-like handle material. That's actually G11 isn't it?

fourthfolder.jpg
 
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Looks like natural G10 to me. I have sheets and sheets of the stuff at work, and it is all labeled G10.

BTW the knife looks good. You will need to post follow up pics of the engraving now. :)
 
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Cool. I like the long pull. Looking foreward to seeing the finished product.
Darcy:)
 
Mike,
Nice knife!
Why not forgo that nasty G10 and just make the handles solid aluminum? Good basis for engraving, sturdier, less pinning/assembly time.
 
Hey Mike, That's a nice knife, and I have a couple of questions for you if you do not mind.

What tool did you use for the nail pull? I've used a dove tail cutter to cut the curved style nail nick, and I've used a dremel cutoff wheel to cut long pulls, but the cutoff wheel left the ends of the pull rounded. I like the way yours are square. That looks really good.

I can't tell from the picture, but I'm assuming that the top of the blade where the pull is must be flat, and that's one reason that it does not curve inward at its edges. Is that correct?

Thanks -chris

Chris Crawford Knives
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DVDs & Tutorials are available at http://chriscrawfordknives.com
 
Hi Chris,
I did that one with a dremel knock-off slot cutter (like this one) from some cheap accessory kit. I mounted it in the milling machine. It didn't last much longer than the test to see if it worked and then two blades I think.

The real cutter made for cutting metal in a milling machine is this one, a WOODRUFF KEY SEAT from Enco:

It cuts much, much better but the slot on that one (1/16) might be slightly too wide. I haven't compared the slots it cuts with the slot in this knife yet. Enco has all different thicknesses and diameters. The bigger the diameter the more of a slope at each end of the cut. I'm guessing the larger diameters would last longer but I don't know if that's an issue cause these seem really well made.

These key seats are metal and are meant to cut out chips so the corners stay square, unlike the dremel cut offs which are abrasive and wear down while they grind away the material, leaving a rounded shoulder.

I didn't think of leaving the top flat so the slot would be square but I think you're right. I just like the look of the bevel stopping before the top so I brought it right up to the bottom of the slot. My guess is if you brought the bevel up to the spine the slot shoulders would be kind of a trapezoid shape, which might look good. I've got plenty of messed up folder blades to try it out on :D
 
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