gameco plattens

Geoff Flato

Geoff Flato

Joined
May 23, 2017
Messages
1,268
I was looking around a bit this morning, and I noticed Gameco out of Australia sells both carbide plattens, and radius chiller plattens.
Anyone have any experience with either of those? The carbide platten in particular I'm interested in.
 
I bought 2 of Nathan's chillers, glued them together end to end with epoxy, mounted them in a tray to hold them firmly, glued 1/8th x 6" x 1" carbide strips to the top of the chillers to make a 2" x 12" platten. Hope to have the water hooked up in a couple of days. Would be a lot easier to buy them from Gameco.
 
I have the carbide platen, though I haven't done a lot with it yet, though I've gotten it toasty enough not to touch between belt changes.. it's not perfectly perfectly flat, I'll get some pictures today to show it in situ..

T
 
Here's the pictures of the platen :-) if you'd like any more specifics let me know, the residue visible scrapes/washes off with solvent, I think it's the backing off one of the belts that got a bit warmer than it should have...







 
Is that 1/8th " carbide face on steel or is it solid carbide? If it's solid carbide it looks about 1/2" thick.
Tim
 
I'm surprised it gets that hot, maybe a chiller really is required for these. Also not too impressed with the flatness. I've got a surface grinder with a diamond wheel to fit it that could be used to flatten it, but most people buying them probably don't.
I might end up passing on these.
 
I wouldn't say a chiller is required for this one, it's uncomfortable to touch, but nowhere near debonding temperature... also this is a smaller grinder, 2x36, so the belt doesn't get that long to cool before coming around again, and I've mainly been using it to hog out blanks/flatten stuff for more processing...

The radius platens have a much bigger surface/contact area so will build up heat faster, they definitely need the chiller.

Even with the slight dip, for this level of product I'm quite happy, apart from anything else, I don't think it'll get worn anywhere near as fast as the standard steel platen.

Tom
 
Flyingwatchmaker said:
I wouldn't say a chiller is required for this one, it's uncomfortable to touch, but nowhere near debonding temperature... also this is a smaller grinder, 2x36, so the belt doesn't get that long to cool before coming around again, and I've mainly been using it to hog out blanks/flatten stuff for more processing...

The radius platens have a much bigger surface/contact area so will build up heat faster, they definitely need the chiller.

Even with the slight dip, for this level of product I'm quite happy, apart from anything else, I don't think it'll get worn anywhere near as fast as the standard steel platen.

Tom
Click to expand...
SIC has very low coefficient of friction . . . What kind of belt you use ? Maybe you should read this ..........
https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media...performance-of-abrasive-belts-white-paper.pdf

Applying too low of pressure results in different visual cues. The telltale sign of insufficient pressure is when glazing, or capping, occurs on the abrasive. Figure 4 shows an example of an abrasive belt where glazing occurred. In the side-by-side comparison, it is evident the belt on the right appears capped with metal from the workpiece. This happens because pressure that is too low causes the abrasive to rub, rather than cut, the substrate. The friction incurred from the rubbing increases the heat between the belt and the workpiece. This can result in pieces of the workpiece being welded to the abrasive. Glazing, or capping, can occur after one application if the pressure is insufficient, and will effectively curtail the lifespan of the abrasive. The appearance of shelling or glazing on used abrasive belts are visual cues that the belt selection, application pressure, or both should be altered.
Click to expand...
 
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