Gap between liner and scales on an ebony Case Tribal Spear

silenthunterstudios

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I found an issue with one of my favorite folders, my Case Tribal Spear. It appears that the ebony scales have shrunk somewhat, leaving a gap between the scales and the liner, wide enough to fit an envelope between the two. I don't carry this knife often, but have had it out and about recently before I discovered this last week. I have not contacted Case about repairing it, but for such an expensive knife, I am not going to fill in the space with any type of adhesive etc. I'll let them fix it.

This knife spends it's existence in the zippered pouch it came with, except for "dress carry". I do live in Maryland, and the knife is not kept in a safe, maybe the coastal weather had something to do with this "shrinking"? Other knives, both folding and fixed with wood scales, have not exhibited these issues, to this degree.

Does anyone have any ideas on what I can do? Sending it in to Case is the obvious answer, however, I have read of some recent issues with Case customer service. The knife is too expensive and nice to do some shade tree engineering on.
 
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I'd give it an overnight soak in a jar of mineral oil, for starters, to allow the ebony a chance to 'sponge' back out to its original size.
 
I wasn't aware that ebony could shrink that much; had always assumed it's inherent density sort of minimized that. I have two old Buck 112s in Macassar ebony, and they haven't budged at all, in the couple decades I've owned them (and I'm in the very dry southwest, after having lived in more humid Texas for 20 years). I'd think Maryland's humidity(?) would prevent much shrinkage (wood usually swells in high humidity). BUT, having admitted my ignorance of what may occur with it, I'd send it back and let Case handle it, for sure.


David
 
I don't know about soaking it in mineral oil overnight but I would rub it down substantially with mineral oil and then store it in a humid place. Based on your profile you already live in a humid location. If there are no pin cracks, checks etc. don't send it back as it will only get re-scaled in the same quality of ebony. You will be surprised at how much it swells back out. The ebony that Case, GEC etc. uses is not old growth, well cured, ebony. From my experience once you get it close, it will stay close, but will always move around. I have had knives that move overnight, based on a thumbnail check over pins and bolsters. I keep all of my natural handled knives in a humidity controlled environment. It works, it is worth the effort. Some decent plastic storage boxes and some cheap cigar humidifiers will work fine.
 
I keep all of my natural handled knives in a humidity controlled environment. It works, it is worth the effort. Some decent plastic storage boxes and some cheap cigar humidifiers will work fine.

Really good tip!
Thanks :)
 
That's substantial movement. I'm not sure mineral oil will help at this point, but it's worth a try.
 
Here in Scandinavia, the rel.humidity is terrible (from cold dry air/ hot rooms). Frequently indoors it is under 10% which is not healthy for us and disaster for knives. I use a room humidifyer but even so it struggles to get past 30% at times. A cigar humidor could be excellent for storage, but aren't they dear?

Based on my experiences, Bone is not too affected, Stag can move a lot, Horn is a nightmare, Cell too but for other reasons...:eek::D Wood seems to be satisfactory, Ebony does move somewhat, Rosewood less. All depends on the curing of the wood, grade etc. But, handling and using it seems to improve matters, the oil and dirt from your hands actually 'nourish' wood so the more you use it the less it's prone to drying out. The CASE/Bose pouches could actually keep the knife from 'breathing' so that might be a thing to consider.

These are relatively expensive knives , if the movement of the wood is appreciable or varies, if it gives rough liners etc you ought to send it in. Re-handling could be the best thing, then handle it more!
 
Are the cover pins still tight?
 
I wish you would also post pictures.

Here is my Peanut, after I sent it to case because the blades were not centered. Im really unhappy about the way they bent the blades, totally not worth having them work on it.

My experience with Case Warranty, on 4 separate occasions, has been very sad. I either got knives back that had the same issue, proud backspring, or they swapped the knife for another one, and did not tell me, claiming instead that they had fixed the knife. And then there is the blade centering fiasco. I hate that the 2 blades dont open parallel.

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My advice, if you dont like a Case knife, is to return for refund. Then buy another one and hope you get lucky. Or ask for a replacement, and again, hope you get lucky.
 
Problem is, with the Tribal Spear, they don't have any others sitting around. All I have is a cellphone camera, I'll take some pics.
 
I never knew that ebony could change that much, but most of my experience has been with guitars, not knives.

I have had good luck with Case CS, but I have had to send 2 Case/Bose back for blade wobble. Both were fixed and were the same knives.
 
I had the same problem with an ebony AK hunter. I put paper in the gaps so it could be seen and sent it in.

They fixed it quick. Per their staff, it happens with high humidity and a poor glue/scale bond. The scales are glued and pinned. They reglued them in place and sent it back all within 2 weeks. If you don't want them to resharpen your blade, tell them, or you'll get it back with a new edge.

Now the scale expands and contracts (you can tell by the edge) but does not lift up.

I've used Case warranty service twice with no complaints. The Bose collaborations get fast tracked. They have two levels of repairs, easy ones and those that require a cutler's attention. Easy ones go straight to repair, difficult ones go to a cutler first for assessment. If you don't like your service, call them, the lady I spoke to was very nice. Sometimes service problems can be more poor communication than poor service.
 
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I haven't been anywhere to get any mineral oil, would linseed oil work for wiping it down? Also, plain ol' mineral oil from the drug store would work fine?
 
> If you don't want them to resharpen your blade, tell them, or you'll get it back with a new edge.

My experience is different, Case did not resharpen any of my knives. They did however repolish my stag handles, removing some of the burn color, leaving it more white.. I did not mind, I was actually glad to lose the orange burn lines.

I did have one Case Tiny Toothpick that had blade wobble, and I agree, that one got fixed not replaced. My Damascus Stag Peanut also developed blade wobble, and yes, Case did fix that to my complete satisfaction also.

I worked past the nice lady on the phone, and was dealing with the department head for warranty service. He tried his best to do right by me. I think there are things happening at the repair and cutler end, that he was not aware or in control of. Sort of a right hand not knowing what the left hand was doing, kind of thing.
 
I wrapped it in a clean rag, after wiping the handle down with mineral oil. The wood eased out, but after letting it sit outside of the rag, the gap reappeared. I left it all day in the rag with some mineral oil, if it didn't improve when I get home, I'm sending it to Case, along with a slim trapper.
 
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