Garage Workshop

Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Messages
88
I posted this in the workshop projects area but got no replies. Hopefully it is OK to post here. I will be building my knife making shop next weekend in my garage and wanted to get some ideas of what others have done. Looking for pictures or plans from knife makers.

  • I am interested in your experience with workbenches with wheels, pluses or minuses, wheel types and sizes. I am thinking about putting my KMG on it so I can grind outside to cut down on dust.
  • What height your benches are off the ground.
  • Did you choose a solid wood bench top or a sheet or 2 of plywood.
  • If you have portable anvils and gas forges I would like to see their set ups too.

I plan to have a 16'X6' overall bench area in an L shape (against 2 walls) with a 5' bench on wheels.

Foot
 
My shop is in my Garage as well. I made one workbench about 8' long along the wall. The top is made out of a 3/4" 4x8 sheet of plywood ripped in-two then laminated together. I then used about 8 coats (over several days) of poly/stain combo to seal it. I have my drill press, bench vise and toaster oven on this workbench with lots of room for assembly.

I also made another stand alone work bench that is 5' long. The legs are 4x4 post and the top is a sheet of 3/4" plywood ripped in-two and laminated together.

I have a craftsman 2x42 that I bolted to one of these grinder stands. I also used another stand like this to mount a slow speed grinder from Woodcraft and I use it as a buffer. With this setup, I can carry the 2x42 outside to grind.

I'm currently in the process of saving up for a VFD and Motor for my Wilmont LB-1000. I mounted it on this work station. I plan on buying this mobile base for the work station so I can move it outside to grind.

I also have two Black & Decker Workmates with machines on them. I have my HF Bandsaw mounted to one and the other has a Sharp Shop Machine knife sharpener mounted to it. Workmates make great work stations.

Other than that, I have one of those old metal teachers desk that has some plastic drawers where I keep all kinds of stuff on.
 
My garage houses ALL of my shop toys: woodworking, welding/cutting, knifemaking, forging, mechanics, etc. I have all power tools and a couple of work surfaces on wheels so I can rearrange based on what I'm doing on a particular day. My biggest suggestion, DON'T GO CHEAP ON WHEELS! I've tried using what I can get on the cheap and have always ended up replacing them with industrial quality gear.

My assembly table is a pair of cabinets with a solid-core door for a top all on 6" industrial casters.

My propane forge sits on a wheeled shop cart and I just bull my anvil/stump setup out to the driveway.
 
FP,

Like you guys, I'm working out of my garage and basement. Click on the picture below then click the arrows left and right. The first thing I realized was that the power in my garage was not adequate for MY needs. It took a while to save up but I finally had the power to my house and garage upgraded to 200amp. Everything is on separate circuits so that I don't trip breakers when using more than one piece of equipment at a time. If you are going to be modifying the power in your work space plan ahead. Figure out where every piece of machinery will go first so you can put the appropriate receptacle near it. If you need 110/115V or 220/230V make sure it is where you need it. You cannot have too much counter area. Plan for a bigger table than you think you need. Think in three dimensions. Not everything has to sit on the floor or on the table top. Use the walls and ceiling to store items. Garage walls and floors are dirty, cracked have varied textures. I have a clean white piece of foamcore board that I can view the profiles/progress of my blades against. Like HomeBru says, DON'T GO CHEAP ON WHEELS! The wheeled cart I have my HT oven and forge on worries me. The rack is rated for something like 2000 lbs but I can tell you the wheels are not. The threaded rod that mounts the wheels to the bottom of the cart are bending. I'll have to replace those before the whole mess ends up on the floor.

I made my anvil stand out of layered 6x6s with big wheels mounted on the back. I can tip it up on the wheels for moving and then set it down on a flat bottom. I have a hole drilled in the front of the stand for a 4' length of black pipe handle. I pop it in for moving and take it out for working. Works great.

The two benches in the garage are about 8' long. One was there when I bought the house. The Grey bench I found on craigslist for a good price. It took me a while to build my work bench in my basement but it is a blessing to have. Lots of storage and a large sturdy top. Top height is 39", depth is 42". The length of the top is 12 feet. It is 2x4 construction with 4x4 foot posts. The top is made from 2x6s with a 1/2" plywood covering then topped off with Masonite for a smooth top surface. There is no flex. You could land F18's on the thing. I made sure to leave generous overhang of the top for working with clamps and so you are not constantly banging your knees against the front of the bench. I made the feet adjustable for leveling the bench on an uneven floor. Plan to have enough outlets. I also added some interior lighting. If you are planning to have wheels on your workbench consider using the type that you lift up onto the wheels with a lever and drop down onto the solid feet of the bench when in place. It's better to have a solid connection with the floor if possible when working.

As far as my forge cart goes, I ran an overhead blackpipe line out the side wall of the garage to a 100# LP tank. I wouldn't keep the tank near the forge. There are several places along the line to cut off the gas ( a valve at the tank, a ball valve overhead along the pipe, and valves on the intakes of the forge). I always triple check to make sure everything is shut off when I'm done. First at the tank valve, letting the hot forge burn off any gas left in the line, then at the overhead valve, then at the forge.

One last thing. Make sure you have adequate lighting in your shop. Run 2 or 3, 8 foot flourescent overhead.


 
Last edited:
MB, HR and I4Marc,

Thank you for your inputs. I got a lot of ideas from your posts so far. I will need to get an electrician in this week before I start. I will need more outlets and lighting. Great advice here.

For wheels I was looking at 5 inch casters with brakes. I did see the pop up casters but have no experience with them. I agree with the solid base though. Don't want the cart moving while grinding.

I want tops that are smooth. I was planning to double the plywood. Glue and screw from the bottom to leave the surface smooth. I like both the polyurethane and masonite suggestions.

Keep the ideas coming.

Foot
 
I4Marc I really find your mobil anvil box design interesting. Cleaver use of 4x4's and 2x6s and the front end lever approach.
 
FP,

Let me know if you need detail shots of anything. I'm sure you will figure out the best ways and designs that work for you. I went with a Masonite covering for my workbench because it will eventually get knackered. The Masonite will be easy to pry up and replace with a nice new one. It is only held on around the perimeter with small brad nails. The wheel configuration I have on my anvil stand could work for your mobile grinder cart. Have a couple of solid, non swiveling casters mounted just off the ground behind the back legs of the cart. As soon as you tip up the front of the cart the wheels do their thing. Lay it back down and you have a solid base. The 6x6s are not an original idea but like everything I do, I put my ideas into customizing it for my own needs. The handle set-up does work very nicely. The other thing is to keep at least one decent sized up-to-date fire extinguisher where you can get to it in a hurry. The likelihood that you'll need it is low but you don't want to go looking for one when time is of the essence.
 
I plan to have a 16'X6' overall bench area in an L shape (against 2 walls) with a 5' bench on wheels.

Why so wide/deep if it's going to be against the wall/corner? A 6' deep bench will just fill up with stuff you can't reach (unless you have really long arms)... maybe I'm misunderstanding your figures.

I built my main bench based around a 3/4" plywood top. I ripped the sheet down to 3' wide and used the extra 1' x 8' piece for shelving. Build your bench heavy and bolt/screw it to the wall if at all possible... a wobbly bench is a real pain when you're doing heavy filing or even hand-sanding. Mine is just screwed to the wall studs with 3" drywall screws and big washers through the 2x4 legs. Kinda ghetto but it works.

I certainly agree that there's really so such thing as too many outlets, too much light or too much space. Since you're having an electrician come in, consider whether or not you will be needing a 220 circuit for a HT kiln. Even if you opt for a smaller 110 kiln, you will definitely want a dedicated 20-amp circuit just for the kiln.
 
Last edited:
My shop is a two car garage that's been almost entirely devoted to shop at this point, other than the washer/dryer and some household storage.

I either benches or machinery against all three walls and I built a bench and drill press station down the center of the garage. I have to walk around things a bit more than some would like but it's allowed me to fit a lot of work space and machinery into the space I have.

Here are some pics...













 
Take your time deciding the hight of your workbenches.
I ended up with three different ones build around me.
I used stacks of boxes etc. to try hights. Less then an inch difference can mean backpain.

Paint the walls white before building your workbenches. It is easier on the eyes and reflects light.

I screwed cheap and thin plywood on top of the work surface. When it gets to used it can be replaced and give a clean new worksurface

Just an impression:
P1011714.JPG

P1011719.JPG
 
Why so wide/deep if it's going to be against the wall/corner? A 6' deep bench will just fill up with stuff you can't reach (unless you have really long arms)... maybe I'm misunderstanding your figures.

I knew this was not the best way to explain it. I have a 3 car garage, 2 cars wide next to the garage door and on the right side, it is 2 cars deep. I plan to use the back deep area for the shop area. The shop area is 16' x 8'. I would like to run benches down the long side side and across the back in an "L" shape. The width of the benches I was thinking about is 30 inches for the ones that will be attached to the wall. I was thinking about 24" wide for the mobile 5 ' bench.

Thank you all for your pictures and advice. This is a great thread so far.

Foot
 
The shop area is 16' x 8'. I would like to run benches down the long side side and across the back in an "L" shape. The width of the benches I was thinking about is 30 inches for the ones that will be attached to the wall. I was thinking about 24" wide for the mobile 5 ' bench.

Gotcha. That's a lot of work-surface area :thumbup: I kinda figured I was just confused. :o
 
Back
Top