Garud problem - Question

Svashtar

Svashtar

Joined
Dec 28, 2003
Messages
4,793
I didn't want to hijack the DOTD for 7/8 thread, but looking at the Garud pic in Yangdu's posted photo, see that single pin thru the tang? On one of mine that pin is loose. Just a millimeter of movement laterally. No way to really get any glue down there as the wood to pin fit is still good and flush. I guess the wood has shrunk just a tiny bit. I actually was thinking of trying to drive it out with a punch, and then rough it up, coat it with epoxy and drive it back in, but I have no knowledge of the internals and how the pin is fitted to the tang.

Any suggestions as to how to tighten it up? Only thing I can think of is to try and get it on an anvil at that point and peen (pein? (-:) it down from the other side, but I would be afraid of damaging the wood. Dan told me these pins are pretty soft.

Any suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks,

Norm
 
In my experience, it's pronounced 'pain'. Not that this response is a WHOLE lot of help...
 
Yes, pinging it would help, but probably marr the surface, darn it.

I think I'd try to squirt some super glue there. You could try heating the khuk and hope that would settle any laha they might have poured in when they burned the tang into the wood.
I wonder if you drilled a very small hole all the way through, and filled it with a very small rod, if that would help...just thinking aloud. You could always replace the pin you know with an entirely new one and end the problem- cept for the marrs in your now new pin....
(maybe I shouldn't be allowed to think out loud?)


Of course, if you never use the khuk for field work, it might be best just to leave it alone.


munk
 
Smack it hard.


:D


Use a 4" or longer nail
(thick enough not to bend, a concrete nail is harder
& could be considerably shorter)
to give it a good hit in the center of the pin on each side
Back the other side with smooth metal.
[side or face of hammer can work if it is firmly fixed or supported]
This will spread the pin on both sides to hold it tighter.
Repeat if necessary.
If you hit gently to start a dimple
it will be less likely to slide off when you hit hard.

I'd use a file or sandpaper
to smooth the point of the nail first
to give a smooth dimple.

If you want less of a dot afterward
you can round the point,
or sand it out tiny to soften the dot afterward.

You can also use a flat surface
[cut off nail / head of nail]
[same diameter as pin being hit]
instead of a point.
No much visible change after peening;
but maybe more/harder hits;
maybe harder to keep centerred.



~
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<> THEY call me 'Dean' :)-fYI-fWiW-iIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TiA-YW-GL-HH-HBd-IBSCUtWS-theWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
What munk said about heat, especially if it is not a user. Laha LIKES to flow.

I was thinking moist heat would swell the wood, but that would bring on additional potential problems.
 
Kismet said:
I was thinking moist heat would swell the wood, but that would bring on additional potential problems.
Click to expand...

Finishing oil soak



~
~~~~~~~~~
<> THEY call me 'Dean' :)-fYI-fWiW-iIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TiA-YW-GL-HH-HBd-IBSCUtWS-theWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
A nail set for finishing nails would also work although whatever you use is going to mark it a bit.
 
interesting thread....I have a Garud sitting here on my table that I'm going to remove the handle and put on a new one.....:D


My experience (with khukuris) has been that the tang pins are heavily peened when they are put in the handle. That ends up making a cross section like this:


attachment.php


The brown is the handle material, the dark grey is the tang and the light grey is the pin.

By the time the pin has been peened into place, it's usually larger than the hole, and irregular in shape. So, trying to push it through may or may not work. :(

If I was going to make this one rock solid - I would drill the pin out (labor intensive), drill a new hole and put in a larger pin.

That said, I'm not sure I fully understand what's going on with your Garud, Svashtar.



When you say "lateral movement"...do you mean perpendicular to the tang (parallel to the hole)? If that's the case, does the other side move too?

If that is the case, then it sounds to me like the handle shrunk, causing the peened pin to come loose - the pins are not glued usually and don't shrink when the handle does.

So, imho, you have two choices: peen the pin further into the hole, or remove it and replace it with another pin.

Either way is simple - just takes time and patience.

Let me know and I can walk you through it.
 
Looks to me like if the handle has shrunk that it would have shrunk around the pin making it even tighter, or am I missing something here? :confused:

Another way to do it would be to use two ballpein hammers and a hammer to hit one with. Place the pin over the center of one ballpein and then place the center of the pein of the 2nd hammer in the center of the top of the pin. A good rap on the face of the top ballpein should seat the pin on both sides. Will need at least two people and three wouldn't hurt.:rolleyes: :p ;) :D :confused: :footinmou
 
Shrinking means the material is moving away from the pin Yvsa...so looser it gets. If it were mine (and we all know that it may be some day ;)), I would get out my lettering punch set and reset (peen) the pin on each side with a nice script "N"

Of course, you might want to stamp it with an "S"...I can always change it later! ;)

.
 
I'm intrigued (mildly) by the shrinking wood. Nasty's right, of course, but I'm thinking the wood could shrink in such a way as to hold the pin tighter also. Perhaps if the pin was positioned in the grain to accomodate.



munk
 
Nails back out munk...if the pin were driven into the handle, it would push the pin out. As the hole is drilled, it releases as it shrinks.

Folks are comparing this to modern stabilized wood such as Dan uses...and learning one of the reasons for the added expense of the product.

.
 
You lost me with that, Nasty, but I do know that most times the wood is going to pull away, like you say. I just wouldn't put it past the sneaky wood to do something different every once in awhile- to keep us on our toes.

I like threads like this where we put it all together. I learn a lot. (and a lot of what I know I know from reading Yvsa when I was new) Still, wood is one of the few physical substances involving technique and know-how I'm not entirely flumoxed on. I've always worked with wood.

But I'm one of those guys who could never make the chess board squares absolutely flush.



munk
 
I would say Bro' Nasty is correct. As the wood shrinks, it draws inward -- away from all it's surfaces, making the hole larger.

How about some sort of screw or a butcher's (male/female) rivet?
 
munk said:
But I'm one of those guys who could never make the chess board squares absolutely flush.

munk
Click to expand...

Two words *power sander*

.
 
One more vote for staking the sucker. Get a center punch on it and start tapping.

Look at it this way - it might work. If it does, great. If it doesn't, you may wind up driving the pin out. If the pin neither tightens nor loosens further, you can still drill it out and install a new one. You'll lose nothing in trying.
 
If you do replace it, put in a nice mosaic one...

.
 
When I pinned my AK Villager I was apprehensive, but it worked out great.


What's a mosiac pin, Nasty?


munk
 
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