Gas forge questions.

Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
23
I've recently finished a new forge from a propane tank and the placement of my burner is on top at an angle so I can get the swirl effect but I'm getting a huge hot spot on the wall where the burner flame is touching. My question is that a problem should I face the burner straight down to the fire brick floor. New to all this and self tought so trying to get the most info possible for the best results. Thanks
 
Ill be in my shop come winter, Im in west LA. If you like you can come and see my forge set up. It might help you understand the set up
 
What are you using to insulate the walls? What refractory are you using? And is your burner angled towards the back? And where in the chamber is the burner located?
 
Normally, the burner enters at the tangent from one side at the top and is angled forward about 20°. This will create a hot spot along the opposite wall, but will fairly evenly heat the chamber once allowed to run long enough to soak the refractory. This is all assuming the chamber is insulated well enough ( 1" or 2" Inswool) and has a sufficient coating of refractory ( satanite and ITC-100). Most forges take 10 minutes or so to soak and get the refractory evenly heated.
 
Normally, the burner enters at the tangent from one side at the top and is angled forward about 20°. This will create a hot spot along the opposite wall, but will fairly evenly heat the chamber once allowed to run long enough to soak the refractory. This is all assuming the chamber is insulated well enough ( 1" or 2" Inswool) and has a sufficient coating of refractory ( satanite and ITC-100). Most forges take 10 minutes or so to soak and get the refractory evenly heated.

I have 2in of wool then atleast 1/4in of satanite as u suggested. I also put two thin coats of ITC-100 and fully cured. As of now my burner is towards the front coming in at an angle to create the swirl effect. I have a door at the front and back about 5in square. I can close a door and leave one open indicating the front and back. But if it comes to it I can angle the the intake pipe to face inwards towards the center of the forge. I'd post pictures but like I've said I'm new to forums and haven't gotten that far yet
 
Ill be in my shop come winter, Im in west LA. If you like you can come and see my forge set up. It might help you understand the set up

Right on man that would be awesome I sent you an email a while back with contact info so just hit me up when your back from school and we can meet up I have friends in la and go out there quite often.
 
What are you using to insulate the walls? What refractory are you using? And is your burner angled towards the back? And where in the chamber is the burner located?

Normally, the burner enters at the tangent from one side at the top and is angled forward about 20°. This will create a hot spot along the opposite wall, but will fairly evenly heat the chamber once allowed to run long enough to soak the refractory. This is all assuming the chamber is insulated well enough ( 1" or 2" Inswool) and has a sufficient coating of refractory ( satanite and ITC-100). Most forges take 10 minutes or so to soak and get the refractory evenly heated.

I have 2in of wool then atleast 1/4in of satanite as u suggested. I also put two thin coats of ITC-100 and fully cured. As of now my burner is towards the front coming in at an angle to create the swirl effect. I have a door at the front and back about 5in square. I can close a door and leave one open indicating the front and back. But if it comes to it I can angle the the intake pipe to face inwards towards the center of the forge. I'd post pictures but like I've said I'm to forums and haven't gotten that far yet. One more question. Would it be best to paint on the ITC-100 in thin layers, curing fully between layers. Or just let each layer dry before applying a new coat
 
ITC-100 is best applied in several thin layers. It should be applied over cured and fired satanite.

The burner should angle back or forward about 20 degrees.
 
Back
Top