Gatco Sharpening system

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rc3mil

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Without watching the vids, I'll give my opinion being an owner of both the Gatco system and the Sharpmaker.

The Sharpmaker is much, much easier to use. I like the fact that the Gatco system gives a lot of different angle options, but in reality, the majority of factory, v-edged knives are at a 20 degree per side (40 degree overall) angle anyway. This is what the Sharpmaker uses.

The clamp on the Gatco system can be a little difficult to use if your knife doesn't have a good, even spine - e.g. a Benchmade Nitrous Stryker I used to own had a little bit of an unsharpened swedge, making it very difficult to clamp.

Bottom line...If all you are looking to do is sharpen/hone a knife with day-to-day maintenance, I recommend the Sharpmaker. If you want to reprofile a knife, or have a ridiculously dull edge, the Gatco will work better.

Someone else may have opinions for you on the Edge Pro, but I can't speak to that.
 
einsteinjon said:
Without watching the vids, I'll give my opinion being an owner of both the Gatco system and the Sharpmaker.

The Sharpmaker is much, much easier to use. I like the fact that the Gatco system gives a lot of different angle options, but in reality, the majority of factory, v-edged knives are at a 20 degree per side (40 degree overall) angle anyway. This is what the Sharpmaker uses.

The clamp on the Gatco system can be a little difficult to use if your knife doesn't have a good, even spine - e.g. a Benchmade Nitrous Stryker I used to own had a little bit of an unsharpened swedge, making it very difficult to clamp.

Bottom line...If all you are looking to do is sharpen a knife with day-to-day maintenance, I recommend the Sharpmaker. If you want to reprofile a knife, or have a ridiculously dull edge, the Gatco will work better.

Someone else may have opinions for you on the Edge Pro, but I can't speak to that.
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Thanks. I want to sharpen my kitchen knives too and i dont think they are 20' per side. The shaprmaker looks like its almost freehand, like you have to line it up at the right angle then run the blade across it. The GATCO sets the angle for you so you cant screw it up by tilting the blade to a different angle. Wouldnt that make the GATCO easier to use?
 
rc3mil said:
Thanks. I want to sharpen my kitchen knives too and i dont think they are 20' per side. The shaprmaker looks like its almost freehand, like you have to line it up at the right angle then run the blade across it. The GATCO sets the angle for you so you cant screw it up by tilting the blade to a different angle. Wouldnt that make the GATCO easier to use?
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The Sharpmaker's ceramic stones/sticks are inset into the holder at the appropriate angle, so all you have to do is hold the knife straight and run it along the stick...it's definitely easier done than said. Like bigmo66 said, it's a "no brainer."

The Gatco is only good for knives about 4"-5" max. Beyond this length - such as an 8" kitchen knife - the stones don't hit the edge appropriately, which screws up the angle. It seems easy, but it can actually be quite difficult and cumbersome, not to mention time consuming. I've heard of people buying two clamps and two clamp holders for the Gatco system, thus allowing them to clamp down the entire length of the knife and sharpening it all at once. It's also possible to do the first half of the knife, then unclamp/reclamp to do the second half. That is so much hassle I rarely use my Gatco anymore. It is also too easy to blunt the tip of a knife if you're not really careful.

For kitchen knives, it works for me to use a honing steel, or a Lansky or Fallkniven ceramic stick (I have both), but the angles for those are by eyesight and feel.

If you are looking to buy just one system for all your knives, I'd look into the Edge Pro Apex over the Gatco. By the time you spend the time and money on getting the Gatco right, you might as well spend the money on the Edge Pro. If you are looking for quck, easy, and foolproof quality results, I stand by the Sharpmaker recommendation.
 
Personally I like my Edge Pro. ;)

I also use a Sharpmaker and a Tri Hone.
 
Thanks for taking the time to give me some more knowledge on sharpening systems. I think i might go with the sharpmaker after all. Can a blade with a 20' angle be shaving and hair splitting sharp or can that only be done with a 15' angle? What angle does RAT Cutlery put on there blades? I just ordered an IZULA and was wondering if it will match up to the sharpmaker. I have a kershaw storm and im probably getting a bk2 and a ka bar usmc. Anyone know what angle these blades come with?
 
rc3mil said:
Thanks for taking the time to give me some more knowledge on sharpening systems. I think i might go with the sharpmaker after all. Can a blade with a 20' angle be shaving and hair splitting sharp
Click to expand...

Yes it can very easy. :thumbup:
 
rc3mil said:
Then why are people always talking about re profiling there edges to +- 15' ? What is the point?
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I always reprofile to 15 degrees why, because I use a lansky, and most it's easier to get a hair whittling knife at 15 that say 20. Add in a microbevel you get the narrowness and the slicing ability of a 15, but the rigidity of a 20 or 30.
 
So if i wanted my knives to have a 15' angle, the spyderco sharpmaker will be useless to me?
 
rc3mil said:
So if i wanted my knives to have a 15' angle, the spyderco sharpmaker will be useless to me?
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No, it won't be useless. It actually does have both 20 deg per side slots AND 15 deg per side slots (40 and 30 degrees inclusive), useful for sharpening/honing. What you won't be able to do - at least not at all easily as far as I am aware - is reprofile your knife to 15 degrees per side. This is what I was referring to before when I mentioned the Gatco would be better if you wanted to reprofile a knife, and what chococrazy is referring to with his Lansky system (very similar to the Gatco).

If I remember correctly, you can buy coarser stones for the Sharpmaker than it comes with, but I've never used those. Theoretically they'd reprofile your knife okay, if you wanted to, but I have a hunch it would take awhile.

As far as actually deciding to reprofile a knife to 15 degrees per side, that's a matter of opinion. I personally don't care to take the time, and I'm not too crazy about weakening the edge by thinning it down. You can get into the microbevel stuff chococrazy is talking about, which gives you the best of both worlds, but that's beyond my ability. To be blunt, I'm too lazy to figure out how to do it, and the 20 degrees per side is plenty sharp for me. The sharpest factory knives I have are Spydercos at 20 degrees per side...hair shaving, mind blowingly sharp.

One other thing about the Sharpmaker is that you can actually set the stones into the underside of the base, effectively creating a benchstone with unlimited angle abilities. But you don't have an angle guide with that.

RATs...I THINK they are at 20 degrees per side, but I really don't know for sure. There is a RAT forum in the Manufacturers section that I'm sure you could get an answer straight from the owner.

Hopefully I haven't given you too much information :D:thumbup:
 
einsteinjon said:
No, it won't be useless. It actually does have both 20 deg per side slots AND 15 deg per side slots (40 and 30 degrees inclusive), useful for sharpening/honing. What you won't be able to do - at least not at all easily as far as I am aware - is reprofile your knife to 15 degrees per side. This is what I was referring to before when I mentioned the Gatco would be better if you wanted to reprofile a knife, and what chococrazy is referring to with his Lansky system (very similar to the Gatco).

If I remember correctly, you can buy coarser stones for the Sharpmaker than it comes with, but I've never used those. Theoretically they'd reprofile your knife okay, if you wanted to, but I have a hunch it would take awhile.

As far as actually deciding to reprofile a knife to 15 degrees per side, that's a matter of opinion. I personally don't care to take the time, and I'm not too crazy about weakening the edge by thinning it down. You can get into the microbevel stuff chococrazy is talking about, which gives you the best of both worlds, but that's beyond my ability. To be blunt, I'm too lazy to figure out how to do it, and the 20 degrees per side is plenty sharp for me. The sharpest factory knives I have are Spydercos at 20 degrees per side...hair shaving, mind blowingly sharp.

One other thing about the Sharpmaker is that you can actually set the stones into the underside of the base, effectively creating a benchstone with unlimited angle abilities. But you don't have an angle guide with that.

RATs...I THINK they are at 20 degrees per side, but I really don't know for sure. There is a RAT forum in the Manufacturers section that I'm sure you could get an answer straight from the owner.

Hopefully I haven't given you too much information :D:thumbup:
Click to expand...

I thank you for taking your time to help me out here on the forums. Your information has proven valuable to my future purchase of a sharpening system :thumbup: Happy New Year
 
Spyderco knives are close to 15 degrees per side. Sharpmaker can handle anything 20 degrees per side and below-less than 15, and the 15 degree setting will set a secondary bevel.

I do recommend reprofiling, especially on folders. It improves cutting power, especially with premium steels. If you use and resharpen your Izula, or any other knife, frequently, over a long period of time it will require reprofiling anyway.

Another system you may want to consider is the DMT Aligner. It works on a similar principle to Lansky/Gatco. Their diamond hones cut really fast. Knifecenter has a special offer as well-order a DMT aligner for 45 bucks and they'll throw in an 8000 grit hone.
Hope this helps.
 
I am a GATCO owner and am very happy with the kit. I have the Professional kit. I added the extra fine and ultimate finishing hones as well as a stropping step.

I feel that the extra angle options are a plus to the GATCO system. I just did a dozen knives the other night on the GATCO including paring knives, a 10" chef's, a 6.5" Nakiri, a 8" Santuko, a Benchmade Ambush, and a Kershaw Vapor. All sharpened up real nice.

One of the advantages I have heard others state about the Sharpmaker is that it is great for maintenance. Only one of the knives I sharpened needed to go coarser than the fine stone and most only needed a bit of time with the extra fine, ultimate finishing and the strop.

With the GATCO and similar systems you are able to both maintain and reprofile.

I do not leave many blades at the factory angles. They all seem to slice, cut, perform better, and are able to support a shallower angle.

Once you have the means to achieve and maintain those angles you will really appreciate them.

Try a kitchen knife at both 20° per side and then at 11° per side and you will see the difference.

Get a chip in a blade and you will see the benefit to a system that can repair it versus one that is mainly for maintenance.

I like the ease of use, simplicity, versatility, and the price on the GATCOs.

Good luck.
 
The Sharpmaker is a very easy tool to use, and perfect for kitchen knives. I keep one set up in my kitchen for weekly touch ups on the fine stone, although I do my twice-yearly sharpening on an EdgePro. It can be done on the Sharpmaker, but the EdgePro does a much more professional job of it. Not any faster, but more accurate.

The GATCO is an excellent system that allows for several different angles but requires more time setting up than the Sharpmaker. It's also not as easy (although it does work) to sharpen larger kitchen knives as you have to move the clamp every few inches.

If all you plan to sharpen are your kitchen knives, I think the Sharpmaker will be the better option. But if you plan to sharpen different style knives, smaller folders, or wish to re-profile a knife the GATCO system might be better for you. If you this is something that you will keep at home, and want the very best, buy an EdgePro. That will solve all your problems except for something to carry in your backpack.

Stitchawl
 
rc3mil said:
What do you guys think about BLUNTTHRUT4U' s recommendation on the GATCO sharpening system? Ive never successfully sharpened a knife. U think this would be a good system for me or should i go Sharpmaker or lansky? i heard "edge pro" was good too

His videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-KrDFLygeI&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaATEdp3lyY&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZ5JQexvW38&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xiSEBRMJ2II&feature=related
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He has some unusual ideas about sharpening. Some I think are flat out wrong, but who knows. Here are a few things he says in video #3:

1. Diamond stones have particles that "stick up" from the surface. Therefor if you use a stropping motion with them, they will "rip out" particles of steel, leaving your edge ragged and saw tooth like.
2. With the Gatco you need to use a marker to see if you are hitting the edge. You may need to use a DIFFERENT ANGLE ON EACH SIDE. In his video, he used 15* on one side and 19* on the other. He attributed this to "how it was clamped in" to the Gatco clamp.
3. He doesn't cut anything to test the edge until he's done. Instead he looks at the edge under light until he can't see the edge any more. Then he knows that he's done. He feels for the burr at the very end, but his real indication of progress is visual.

#1 seems like BS to me. #2 could be due to the clamp, but more likely is due to the factory grind right? #3 I'm not too sure about. I always feel for the burr, but I look for imperfections using light. I'm not sure how I'd tell that I had met the edge on both sides just using a bright light.

Brian.
 
bgentry said:
He has some unusual ideas about sharpening. Some I think are flat out wrong, but who knows. Here are a few things he says in video #3:

1. Diamond stones have particles that "stick up" from the surface. Therefor if you use a stropping motion with them, they will "rip out" particles of steel, leaving your edge ragged and saw tooth like.
2. With the Gatco you need to use a marker to see if you are hitting the edge. You may need to use a DIFFERENT ANGLE ON EACH SIDE. In his video, he used 15* on one side and 19* on the other. He attributed this to "how it was clamped in" to the Gatco clamp.
3. He doesn't cut anything to test the edge until he's done. Instead he looks at the edge under light until he can't see the edge any more. Then he knows that he's done. He feels for the burr at the very end, but his real indication of progress is visual.

#1 seems like BS to me. #2 could be due to the clamp, but more likely is due to the factory grind right? #3 I'm not too sure about. I always feel for the burr, but I look for imperfections using light. I'm not sure how I'd tell that I had met the edge on both sides just using a bright light.

Brian.
Click to expand...


#1 BS
#2 BS
#3 I can judge a edge by feel alone but that's only because I have almost 20 years experience, I'm sure he does not have that much knowledge of the edge. I like his strop too :rolleyes:
 
bgentry said:
He has some unusual ideas about sharpening. Some I think are flat out wrong, but who knows. Here are a few things he says in video #3:

1. Diamond stones have particles that "stick up" from the surface. Therefor if you use a stropping motion with them, they will "rip out" particles of steel, leaving your edge ragged and saw tooth like.
2. With the Gatco you need to use a marker to see if you are hitting the edge. You may need to use a DIFFERENT ANGLE ON EACH SIDE. In his video, he used 15* on one side and 19* on the other. He attributed this to "how it was clamped in" to the Gatco clamp.
3. He doesn't cut anything to test the edge until he's done. Instead he looks at the edge under light until he can't see the edge any more. Then he knows that he's done. He feels for the burr at the very end, but his real indication of progress is visual.

#1 seems like BS to me. #2 could be due to the clamp, but more likely is due to the factory grind right? #3 I'm not too sure about. I always feel for the burr, but I look for imperfections using light. I'm not sure how I'd tell that I had met the edge on both sides just using a bright light.

Brian.
Click to expand...

#1 I like the standard stones. For me they seem to work better. I bought one of GATCO's Coarse diamond hones thinking it might reprofile faster but it actually cut slower than the extra coarse stone.

#2 I use the marker at the beginning to make sure I am clamped up right and hitting the entire edge. I use the same angle on both sides of every knife I sharpen. If the factory angles do not match I reprofile them so they do. I do not own any knive such as the Japanese type of kitchen cutlery with uneven bevels.

#3 I use a piece of legal paper to slice to test. I test after the fine stone, after the ultimate finishing hone and after stropping. More to check for chipping or catching. I know the GATCO stones followed by the two finer hones and stropping will do the job. It is just nice to know about any problem areas that need extra attention. I really would not need to test. The GATCO works.

stitchawl said:
It's also not as easy (although it does work) to sharpen larger kitchen knives as you have to move the clamp every few inches.

If all you plan to sharpen are your kitchen knives, I think the Sharpmaker will be the better option. But if you plan to sharpen different style knives, smaller folders, or wish to re-profile a knife the GATCO system might be better for you.
Stitchawl
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I have not found the need to reclamp on the larges knife I have sharpened ( a 10" chef). I think any change in angle is negligible and doesn't affect the use of the blade. I have not percieved any difference in slicing and cutting between the 10" blade with no reclamp and the other kitchen cutlery I have sharpened on the GATCO.

With the Sharpmaker you are limited to I believe 15° per side and 20° per side.

I do the majority of my kitchen cutlery to the 11° setting. I have one knife that is being a pain and is stuck at the 15° setting. My Benchmade seeme to work best at the 19° setting. The Vapor is at the 15° setting. I did a few in deer camp. Most seemed to work great at the 15° mark or the 22° mark but one Buck wanted the 25° per side. I didn't have time to reprofile them all the day before the opener so I did them all as the bevels were. I was glad to have all of those angles available. Several were very dull and would probably have taken a bit of time to sharpen on the Sharpmaker. As it was I had stones and hones available to me from the extra coarse to the ultimate finishing as well as the strops to take a blade from dull to deer gutting and skinning sharp.

The Sharpmaker sure seems simple and easy. Nothing to think about. Limited options.

The GATCO on the other hand gives you more options, angles, stones. The GATCO is still cheaper out of the box than the Sharpmaker.
 
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