Gator Belts

J

jasperdog032469

Joined
Mar 14, 2007
Messages
115
Just wondering if gator makes anything more aggressive than the 80 grit. I've searched a few sites and havnt found them. Bought one of the 160's and am blown away!
 
80 is about all you need and have heard there is a 600 grit now A30 but they are illusive to find.
 
Gators are pretty much a second operation belt so 80 grit should be enough. Even people like me who use 60-80 grit for initial grinding tend to use something like Blaze or 3M Gold belts for the rough grinding. Gators just don't remove metal a efficiently for that task in my experience.
 
Thanks guys. Ordered some of the 80's and 300's. I've been using the 3m gold 50 grit for my initial grinds, so I'll stick to that and then try finishing everything else up with the gators.
 
I use A300 to A30 CF belts. I have found the Norax X-series last better in the X45 and finer.

I usually start with 36 or 50 grit ceramic belts, Blaze if I can get them. Tru-grit is sometimes not reliable on the Blazes and will change your order to regular ceramic belts without notice.
 
with a dressing stone like you would use in a shop grinding wheel
it works great if you glaze a gator and need it cutting back to new
 
I have had a bunch of gators hanging in the shop for a while, and I just started using them and I think they are awesome, good to know they can be dressed. I was just using the edge of a steel bar to kind of deglaze them.
 
Well, Lloyd Richard Harner III, I don't get "dressing". If you can make time, I'd like to get tutorialized... pics or no... just some clearing up, really... =]

Mike
 
Someone on here suggested using a wire brush to give the gator belts new life. I have been using this method rfor several months on old gators that I thought were worn out without having to buy new ones.
 
308 yep thats what i use

the stone brakes off the top coat of the belt makign it cut verry close to as new

when you use the stone bar you can keep the belt even so you dont get the high and low spots on the belt
 
nother tip on the gators when you clean up the spine of the blade
if you do it vertically make sure to move the blade around or you will grind a low spot i the belt in a short time
then you ll have a hell of a time getting nice grind


one more
its nice to have a belt of each grit that have the edges rounded a bit to soften the plunge (the sharp corner of the new belts can cut into a nice plunge fast )
 
I have been having a issue with my belts on my Coote. I will track the belt 1/8" of to the side but when I apply blade pressure to the belt, the belt tracks back over. I do brake the edge down some with scrap steel also.

Any suggestions


butcher_block said:
nother tip on the gators when you clean up the spine of the blade
if you do it vertically make sure to move the blade around or you will grind a low spot i the belt in a short time
then you ll have a hell of a time getting nice grind


one more
its nice to have a belt of each grit that have the edges rounded a bit to soften the plunge (the sharp corner of the new belts can cut into a nice plunge fast )
Click to expand...
 
on a similar note the gator belts are great for straightening out a crooked plunge line.
I also love how they clean up a flat grind after heat treat. they really make everything very uniform. I am quickly becoming a big fan.
 
might need ot use a bit more spring on the tensioner or let the belt do the work and dont push as hard
remember that these belts work best at clean up and semi finishing grinds
i use 60 and 120 grit then go to the gators
 
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