Gayle Bradley edge retention test.

[Noctis3880]

Yes, the thing people have to be aware of is the "toothy" edge that most high carbide volume steels will develop, as well as the cutting technique needed to take advantage of that particular edge. I thought my D2, CTS-XHP, and ZDP-189 were all dull as hell after a few cuts(probably less than what you did with that cardboard) and would catch whenever I tried to push cut paper. However, I found that slicing cuts work very well and it would take a HELL of a long while before you can no longer slice cut. My Dozier Buffalo River Hunter is mostly used for food prep and hasn't been sharpened for the better part of a year.

My Para2 in S90V has been put to cardboard duty and hasn't been sharpened in about 3 months.

I think high hardness 52100, SR-101, or 1095 would keep its razor edge longer. Though I don't think any steel would truly keep a "razor" edge for long when cutting something as horrendously abrasive as cardboard. If you don't cut anything tougher than celery or carrots, then I'm sure that razor edge will last you a month or so.

 

[Battle Creek Knives]

interesting, you'd think it would hold up better.. but again its not 1095

I remember watching blunt4truth's video a couple years ago where he takes his Izula against a 4x4 and whittled it in half.. It still shaved hair after that....... !!

so a couple years ago that very video led to my discovery of esee knives.. (then rat)

I wonder how it would perform against s30v, maybe you have some lemons?? who knows........ but I'd like to see more scientific (if there is such a thing) testing done with it paired up against even the aus8..or something else..

 

[Andrew Colglazier]

I used my GB to slice up electric livestock tape, this stuff -

Each of those strands is stainless steel covered with plastic. I made 50-60 cuts, and while the edge dulled, it was undamaged. All it took to bring it back to shaving sharp was to give it a few passes on a ceramic rod.

After using my ZT MUDD for the same job (it made far fewer cuts of this material) I had to sharpen it on a belt grinder.

That sold me on M4.

Andy

 

[wongKI]

^I remember you posting about that a while back My GB bisected an aluminium mess tin; that's quite a workout and it handled it fine.

 

[CrimsonTideShooter]

Your GB can cut through stainless steel while being umdamaged?

After filming that video there were chips in the edge big enough to see. WTF gives. I literally had to form a huge burr on the 120 grit stone of my edge pro to remove enough stock to take the chips out.

I used my GB to slice up electric livestock tape, this stuff -

Each of those strands is stainless steel covered with plastic. I made 50-60 cuts, and while the edge dulled, it was undamaged. All it took to bring it back to shaving sharp was to give it a few passes on a ceramic rod.

After using my ZT MUDD for the same job (it made far fewer cuts of this material) I had to sharpen it on a belt grinder.

That sold me on M4.

Andy

 

[Ankerson]

Your GB can cut through stainless steel while being umdamaged?

After filming that video there were chips in the edge big enough to see. WTF gives. I literally had to form a huge burr on the 120 grit stone of my edge pro to remove enough stock to take the chips out.

Cardboard can be very abrasive and tear the heck out of an edge in a real hurry depending on what the cardboard is.

 

[Andrew Colglazier]

Your GB can cut through stainless steel while being umdamaged?

After filming that video there were chips in the edge big enough to see. WTF gives. I literally had to form a huge burr on the 120 grit stone of my edge pro to remove enough stock to take the chips out.

I've also cut galvanized steel flashing and heavy fiberglass shower surrounds. The only thing that chipped the edge of my GB were carpet staples which I pried out of floor decking with the tip of the knife.

I forgot, I've also used this knife to cut sheet rock and to scrape down the edges of the sheet rock to smooth it. On all of these tasks, to bring it back to paper slicing, hair shaving sharp, all I had to do was use a steel or a ceramic rod on it.

After I chipped the edge on the staples, I did use my belt grinder, but not because it was dull, rather to try and grind the chips out. I decided that because it still cut stuff just fine, not to worry about the chips.

Andy

 

[CrimsonTideShooter]

Cardboard can be very abrasive and tear the heck out of an edge in a real hurry depending on what the cardboard is.

So you're confident that my knife is performing the way it's supposed to?

You obviously know way more about steel in general than I do, so if you say it's good to go then I'll be happy with it.

 

[Ankerson]

So you're confident that my knife is performing the way it's supposed to?

You obviously know way more about steel in general than I do, so if you say it's good to go then I'll be happy with it.

Like I said, it will depend on the cardboard, not all boxes are the same.

I cut a lot of cardboard in my life and some will just tear a blade to pieces while other cardboard won't, some of it's so bad that it's just like cutting dirt in your yard. What I mean is take you knife and go out and cut stab the dirt and cut through and keep doing it.

There just isn't just one answer.

But yes I would say you knife is fine.

 

[Noctis3880]

Your GB can cut through stainless steel while being umdamaged?

After filming that video there were chips in the edge big enough to see. WTF gives. I literally had to form a huge burr on the 120 grit stone of my edge pro to remove enough stock to take the chips out.

And you're absolutely certain that they were chips and not something else? I know it's easy to mistake a toothy "carbide edge" for a rolled one when you shine a light on it, but a toothy edge will feel like there's a burr on both sides. Whereas a chip is an isolated shiny "point" along the edge and will be felt as a bump if you run the tips of your fingernail along the edge.

If it's really chipping, I would send it back to Spyderco.

I've cut the super abrasive type of cardboard before, and you usually need to use both hands to muscle your knife through it. Both ZDP-189 and S90V never chipped on that, so M4 shouldn't either.

 

[Blownnova]

Have you tried the same test without taking the edge to such an extreme polish? It seems to me that some of the steels I sharpen on the edge pro stay sharp longer if I stop at 600 or 1000 grit and a quick brush on the ceramic rod. This could just be my imagination, I have never sat down and cut so much cardboard in an edge retention test, I am just going off of my daily use. I know d2 really seems to work better for me when its pretty toothy.

 

[CrimsonTideShooter]

I am positive they are tiny chips. When looking down on the edge under bright light they look like little glints of light, and yes they catch when running your fingernails up the edge. Rolls come out when I strop, these chips don't. I actually have to remove stock to get the chips out.

And you're absolutely certain that they were chips and not something else? I know it's easy to mistake a toothy "carbide edge" for a rolled one when you shine a light on it, but a toothy edge will feel like there's a burr on both sides. Whereas a chip is an isolated shiny "point" along the edge and will be felt as a bump if you run the tips of your fingernail along the edge.

If it's really chipping, I would send it back to Spyderco.

I've cut the super abrasive type of cardboard before, and you usually need to use both hands to muscle your knife through it. Both ZDP-189 and S90V never chipped on that, so M4 shouldn't either.

 

[230grains]

I am positive they are tiny chips. When looking down on the edge under bright light they look like little glints of light, and yes they catch when running your fingernails up the edge. Rolls come out when I strop, these chips don't. I actually have to remove stock to get the chips out.

Honestly, if you didn't thin the edge to a ridiculous level (my GB is THIN), then it shouldnt be chipping on cardboard. The only time i've chipped out the edge at all is prying a broken carbide insert out of a bore drill on my lathe.

 

[Ankerson]

I am positive they are tiny chips. When looking down on the edge under bright light they look like little glints of light, and yes they catch when running your fingernails up the edge. Rolls come out when I strop, these chips don't. I actually have to remove stock to get the chips out.

I think we are going to need some close good clear photos of these things you are calling chips.

 

[DennisStrickland]

having worked with spydies m4 mule on thick cardboard sometime back my results gave the m4 the longest lasting edge i've tested.i do believe 60v will shade it slightly on straight cardboard but the lateral stress superiority of m4 makes it a 1st choice for tuff exertions against most alloys . 90v & m390 probably will outcut m4 in most tests but i'm not sure a more tuffer versatile alloy is available. certainly zdp189 falls behind m4 in all catagories.the large number of formites having positive comments on m4 ,especially the bradley, certainly gives a big plus to this atomic alloy.--dennis

 

[paulhilborn]

Like I said, it will depend on the cardboard, not all boxes are the same.

I cut a lot of cardboard in my life and some will just tear a blade to pieces while other cardboard won't, some of it's so bad that it's just like cutting dirt in your yard. What I mean is take you knife and go out and cut stab the dirt and cut through and keep doing it.

There just isn't just one answer.

But yes I would say you knife is fine.

Like stated above "all boxes are not the same" This is so true. A buddy once told me that liquor boxes are brutal to cut up compared to other types of cardboard. He said just due to the weight of the items that are packed inside that they are very durable. This could be a factor or not. honestly I think you knife is fine---use it and abuse it and in the end enjoy it. The GB is my favorite Spydie

Paul

 

[THG]

Steel is just steel, some are better than others. But none truly live up to the hype.

Words cannot describe how much I agree with this!

I've tried several different types of steel, and they're all practically the same to me. That goes from ZDP-189 to VG-10 to CPM-S30V to 420HC to D2.

The only ones that were noticeably different were that CPM-S30V performs a *little bit* better than the others, and AUS-8 doesn't lose its burr. That's been my experience...

Well, do not believe what people saying about steels here - you never know what those sayings are based on.

Yep, especially the "I haven't had to sharpen this steel for 6 months!" line. Either they don't use their knives, don't use them for anything serious, or have a lame definition of "still sharp."

 

[Battle Creek Knives]

THG, I think I'll ride in your boat:thumbup:

I have some 1075 that wont break, and I tried all last winter.. go tramotina !!!

 

[nozh2002]

Yep, especially the "I haven't had to sharpen this steel for 6 months!" line. Either they don't use their knives, don't use them for anything serious, or have a lame definition of "still sharp."

Some people able to feel how carbides on PM steel bumps the blade during cuts and as well see carbides "micro serration" by their naked eye (on PM steel again)!
This forum full of very interesting people - experts I would say and they do not hesitate to to share their wisdom.

Thanks, Vassili.