GB, Wetterling, Fiskars. Any real difference?

Spooky, How's that Ka-Bar working out for you?:)

I've been waiting until I've got a camera while on a trip in the woods to write a review, but I'm really loving that thing! :D:thumbup: It's exactly what I would have hoped a big knife would be. Great control and chopping leverage with a distal hold, and very comfortable to choke up on. Balance is perfect. :thumbup:

I'm having a really, really hard time deciding whether to take it or my Fiskars when out and about, though. They weigh about the same and are about the same size, and have some different pros and cons. Too many choices! :eek:

I'm really happy with having picked it up. Just gotta get some good testing done!
 
I've been waiting until I've got a camera while on a trip in the woods to write a review, but I'm really loving that thing! :D:thumbup: It's exactly what I would have hoped a big knife would be. Great control and chopping leverage with a distal hold, and very comfortable to choke up on. Balance is perfect. :thumbup:

I'm having a really, really hard time deciding whether to take it or my Fiskars when out and about, though. They weigh about the same and are about the same size, and have some different pros and cons. Too many choices! :eek:

I'm really happy with having picked it up. Just gotta get some good testing done!
Glad it's working out for you...now I'm in the same boat as you were about having to make a decision. Eeeek! Tough one.
 
Fiskars and GB/Wetterling don't play in the same league.

Fiskars are a lot thicker and have large flat bevels.
While Fiskars plastic handles seem brittle, they are probably more reliable than wood.

GB and Wetterling compare in the sense that they have thinner head and are full convex. Wetterling is like GB except not as well made (as HoB said).

As for GB, while very good, I would still prefer to handpick it if possible as, while generally very good, they are not flawless.

GB are really sharper than Fiskars (compare to sharp knives), but Fiskars are still very capable axes.

One may also note, that as GB are thinner, they aren't the best axes for splitting.
 
Fiskars and GB/Wetterling don't play in the same league.

Fiskars are a lot thicker and have large flat bevels.
While Fiskars plastic handles seem brittle, they are probably more reliable than wood.

GB and Wetterling compare in the sense that they have thinner head and are full convex. Wetterling is like GB except not as well made (as HoB said).

As for GB, while very good, I would still prefer to handpick it if possible as, while generally very good, they are not flawless.

GB are really sharper than Fiskars (compare to sharp knives), but Fiskars are still very capable axes.

One may also note, that as GB are thinner, they aren't the best axes for splitting.

Now I'm really going in circles. So, correct me if I'm wrong. Fiskars make better splitters, but GB's and Wetterlings are better for "general duty."?
- Thanks
 
Now I'm really going in circles. So, correct me if I'm wrong. Fiskars make better splitters, but GB's and Wetterlings are better for "general duty."?
- Thanks

In a sense yes. GB, and Wetterlings with experience can do just about anything you want them to. The are decent splitters, however the Fiskars with it's thicker blade shaped like a wedge is a more proficient splitter.

I use my axes to make tent stakes, carve bowls, spoons, noggins, and lots of other smaller carving tasks. The Wetterlings and GB are much better for this task.
 
In a sense yes. GB, and Wetterlings with experience can do just about anything you want them to. The are decent splitters, however the Fiskars with it's thicker blade shaped like a wedge is a more proficient splitter.

I use my axes to make tent stakes, carve bowls, spoons, noggins, and lots of other smaller carving tasks. The Wetterlings and GB are much better for this task.

Thanks, I'd like my axe to be as "multi-functional" as possible. My knives tend to be very task specific. The hunting guides up in Labrador use their axes like knives up there...there must be a reason for it, right?
 
In a sense yes. GB, and Wetterlings with experience can do just about anything you want them to. The are decent splitters, however the Fiskars with it's thicker blade shaped like a wedge is a more proficient splitter.
Yep GB/Wetterling are more likely to stick in wood. You'll probably be able to split anything you can split with Fiskars, just a (little) bit more complicated.

On the other hand they are probably better at anything else.

So if you buy an axe mostly for splitting I would choose Fiskars.

If you want to cut/fell/carve... GB/W are probably better.

edit: clarification
 
Troop: for pure chopping power, I am also an axe fan. I think you'll find any of the designs you've mentioned to be good enough for you in the field. I'd give the nod to GB for fit and finish while all will hold a decent edge. For pure cutting in hard woods, I'd select the GB every time. In the splitting role, you'll want to select a thicker wedge to accomplish the task at hand. The fiskars price point is such that I have one in each car!
 
Yep GB/Wetterling are more likely to stick in wood. You'll probably be able to split anything you can split with Fiskars, just a (little) bit more complicated.

On the other hand they are probably better at anything else.

So if you buy an axe mostly for splitting I wouldn't choose GB/wetterling.

If you want to cut/fell/carve... GB/W are probably better.

Uh, Ravaillac, you're mentioning the same brands for both tasks. Sorry, but I'm confused enough. Thanks. Sorry, I misread. Please disregard.
 
Troop: for pure chopping power, I am also an axe fan. I think you'll find any of the designs you've mentioned to be good enough for you in the field. I'd give the nod to GB for fit and finish while all will hold a decent edge. For pure cutting in hard woods, I'd select the GB every time. In the splitting role, you'll want to select a thicker wedge to accomplish the task at hand. The fiskars price point is such that I have one in each car!
That's a very good idea...but I'll be lugging enough knives around, so I just want to have one axe with me. I'm thinkin' like for use up in Alaska, when I get up there in a few years.
- Thanks
 
Ibut, what about the "hole" in the head where the handle fits up into? Do they finish that on the Wetterling smoothly?
-Thanks

No it is not finished. Doesn't have to be, though. But it should be straight. That's what you call the "hang" of the axe. Forged axes are often not hung well (either canted fore or backward or of to the side). On cast axes this is usually not a problem. The Wetterlings are decently hung, but you might get unlucky, too. But I have seen some reports of the occasional GB not hung very well either.
 
From what I understand, from the times that I've been there, even going for a small walk in Alaska is basically a "survival situation." So, it looks like I can do more with a GB/W then with a Fiskars. What about the head on the GB Carpenter's axe ? Anybody have any experience with them?
- Thanks all for the posts. Sorry again, Ravaillac.
 
No it is not finished. Doesn't have to be, though. But it should be straight. That's what you call the "hang" of the axe. Forged axes are often not hung well (either canted fore or backward or of to the side). On cast axes this is usually not a problem. The Wetterlings are decently hung, but you might get unlucky, too. But I have seen some reports of the occasional GB not hung very well either.
Thanks for the lesson, brother. :thumbup:
 
Thanks, I'd like my axe to be as "multi-functional" as possible. My knives tend to be very task specific. The hunting guides up in Labrador use their axes like knives up there...there must be a reason for it, right?

You bet there is. My Grandad taught me how to use a hatchet, or axe when field dressing game. IMO there is nothing better for hard bone, ligaments, sinew, and flaying hides than a good axe or hatched with a polished pole.

This hatchet has a thin edge for clear wood, and slicing if needed, and a blunter, steep edge for hard wood with knots, animal bone and tissue.

Grohmann001.jpg
 
No it is not finished. Doesn't have to be, though. But it should be straight. That's what you call the "hang" of the axe. Forged axes are often not hung well (either canted fore or backward or of to the side). On cast axes this is usually not a problem. The Wetterlings are decently hung, but you might get unlucky, too. But I have seen some reports of the occasional GB not hung very well either.


I had to send one Wetterlings back for this very issue. Slanted to the right.
 
Well, most people here refer to the Wetterlings/GB hunters models, because they are the most useful for Woodcraft. From what I have heard and what I can see of the Fiskars, it is a more all around model. Of course GB makes a splitting axe as well, which should be hard to outperform on splitting, but it is heavy and large as a splitting axe should be. The hunters axe are medium sized (20" handle) fairly lightweight with slim profile that perform very well on chopping, especially greenwood, which of course works against them on splitting. They will also work for skinning and field dressing game (a good axe offers surprisingly good control when choked up...better than most large blades). As far as I know the edges of the GB and Wetterlings are significantly harder (58 Rc) than the "hardware store models" (around 52 Rc). There are some subtle differences between the Wetterlings Hunter and the GB Hunter and on the Outdoorsmagazin forum there are some that prefer the Wetterlings over the GB because of balance and feel (also a matter of how it is hung).
 
There are some subtle differences between the Wetterlings Hunter and the GB Hunter and on the Outdoorsmagazin forum there are some that prefer the Wetterlings over the GB because of balance and feel (also a matter of how it is hung).


I have read that review and tend to agree with most of it. With a little TLC the Wetterlings (if well hung;)) can and is just as good as the GB.

I sanded the head of my Wetterlings down to a 110 matte finish. I then sanded the clear crap off the handle, soaked it upside down in raw linseed oil for about two weeks occasionally coating the whole handle with a sponge.

It really made it swell up inside the eye, and sealed the handle against water while still providing a good grip.

Not a very good pic, put here it is with my Lee Reeves:

Hatchetpics010.jpg
 
You bet there is. My Grandad taught me how to use a hatchet, or axe when field dressing game. IMO there is nothing better for hard bone, ligaments, sinew, and flaying hides than a good axe or hatched with a polished pole.

This hatchet has a thin edge for clear wood, and slicing if needed, and a blunter, steep edge for hard wood with knots, animal bone and tissue.

Grohmann001.jpg

You know, that's a great idea...two blades with two grinds. I love that hatchet, but, it doesn't look like you can really "haul off" with that thing...But, then again, it's a "hatchet" and not an "axe", right?
- Thanks
 
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