GEC 1095 or 440c?

I just wanted to relate my experience in the sharpening of GEC 1095 and 440C: I had a 1095 first - when I sharpened it, it got very sharp, as I expected. I am very impressed with this steel for taking a fine edge.

When I got a 440C GEC, I thought I might be disappointed with the edge sharpness that I could attain compared to that awesome 1095. It was not so! I was very happy with the edge sharpness that I was able to attain on the 440C. I think my results were very similar sharpness between the 2 steels, although I did not do any kind of objective testing. Bottom line: I believe that GEC is using first-rate heat-treat or some kind of magic on their steels...
 
Since the steels are somewhat equivalent, unless you hate rust, rather than the steel, you should look at handle materials and fit/finish. Per a recent Knife World article on GEC, the 440C are their lowest level line, the 1095 knives are a cut above and it is reflected in price, handle materials, etc.
 
Per a recent Knife World article on GEC, the 440C are their lowest level line, the 1095 knives are a cut above and it is reflected in price, handle materials, etc.

That seems odd since the 440C is normally found only in their Great Eastern brand which seems to be the higher materials brand like the Northfield brand or so I thought. I had a Great Eastern #53 in 440C with really nice stag and thought it was just excellent. Really, all there brands are high quality.
 
the 440c in gec is labeled Great Eastern Cutlery & in my experience the 440 costs 10 to 15$ more. the carbon issues are northfield & tiduote. all the 440 i've seen has a high polish but joe bob or black mamba can tell us for sure.
 
I'm with you, Dennis. Polished and top materials in both GEC and Northfield, but they seem to offset the greater expense of the stainless by not swedging the GEC stuff, while Northfields are beautifully swedged. The Tidioute brand is definitely the low one on the totem pole, with less polished and usually unswedged blades. These are generalities--you will no doubt find a few examples that break these rules.

Also remember, they make many SFOs, so really any combination is possible. The SFOs are also not totalled in their website production totals by year.
 
The Knife World article (current issue) is pretty unequivical. The GEC line is the lowest level, while Northfield and Tioduette are higher levels. This is counter to what Queen and Case do, where all of their higher level knives are in stainless. I don't remember what distinguishes Northfield from Tioudette. The GEC is in stainless because they believe this is the best value and steel for every day carry.
 
brownshoe black mamba & joe bob know more about gecs than Knife World. i have taken knife world since 1978 so i know a little about the accurancy of that excellent publication. trust the forum members, believe me if one is incorrect he will certainly be informed very quickly.
 
brownshoe black mamba & joe bob know more about gecs than Knife World. i have taken knife world since 1978 so i know a little about the accurancy of that excellent publication. trust the forum members, believe me if one is incorrect he will certainly be informed very quickly.

Where is knife-swapper when you need him? I wish he'd chime in on this.

AFIK Great Eastern is at the top of the GEC line.
 
Steel conversations are almost as bad as religion and politics.

My 2cents:

GEC does a great job with both steels; thus it is down to what has always been true of well done 440-vs-1095. 440C holds better, but 1095 takes it easier and finer.

So it really boils down to what you want. If you can/will take care of 1095 and can actually put an edge on it to take advantage of the steel, go with it. If you like a lower maintenance steel that will get sharper than most people will ever need it, get 440c.

As far as finish, the GEC / Tidioute are about the same standard finish. Difference being that the GEC are mirror finish; but they have still not perfected this in my opinion and I would just as soon see them all satin finished. Northfield brand items are generally embellished a little more (not always the case) with swedge grinds, pinched / lined bolsters, etc. Most people seem to choose more along the lines of the handle material than the brand name.

I have had them krokus finish Northfield's for me in the past, and have had them leave off all etching before as well. So there are no hard/fast rules.

Mike Latham
CollectorKnives.Net
 
My "testing" is pretty subjective, but I have used the daylights out of a bunch of knives for years, cowboying and skinning a boatload of critters, as well as whittling and assorted other stuff.

The GEC/Northfield/Tidioute knives I have are all 1095, and they are cutting suckers. The combination of the fineness of edge you can put on the 1095, and the excellent edge geometry make them premium hard use knives in my book.
 
Thanks for all the input. KnifeSwapper that picture I posted is from your site where I will be buying the knife and I apologize if I shouldn't have posted it without asking. I wasn't aware you are a member here.
 
Thanks for all the input. KnifeSwapper that picture I posted is from your site where I will be buying the knife and I apologize if I shouldn't have posted it without asking. I wasn't aware you are a member here.

:):) Got caught didn't ya? Just kidding. I don't think Mike (knifeswapper) will mind too much especially, since you're buying a knife from him.:thumbup:

I e-mailed Mike earlier today about the GEC line and although not specific about what brand in the line was best, I think this partial reply of his to me is well put. Sums it up pretty darn good.

Mike Latham (knifeswapper) said:

If you like blade swedges, pinched bolster, etc. it is Northfield; if you like stainless it is GEC; if you like simple elegance it is Tidioute.

Whatever GEC you get, I think you'll be pleased.
 
Ok so here is the one I just pulled the trigger on.

7fb40a08.jpg


Photo courtesy of KnifeSwapper's site where I ordered it.

440c blade and dark zebra wood. I'll let you guys know when I get it.

Thanks again everyone.
 
From what I read here, my issue with 440C must be mental. I've never been able to sharpen a 440C to a point where I like it. Neither can I sharpen them to keep an edge (well, there was no great edge there to begin with.)

Carbon, on the other hand, unless it is an exceptionally crappy blade, is a breeze. It gets very sharp and it stays that way unless I abuse it; in which case it is very easy to get it shaving sharp again.

Of course, you are comparing 1095 to 440C, but for me a good example of how incompetent I am with 440C is when it comes to Randall. An 0-1 Randall can be a pretty decent blade; a 440C makes for a good looking piece.

Like I've pointed out, I'm assuming responsibility for my mistakes and not blaming the steels.
 
I think part of your problem with stainless Randalls is that they use 440b, not 440c. 440b isn't as good as 440c, everything else being equal.
 
You can get 440C pretty damn sharp but in my experience it takes more work than 1095 to reach a similar level of vorpalocity. (Since 1095 is usually given a heat treat in the middle high 50's to near 60 and 440C can be anywhere from high 50's up to 60 or just over.)

I wouldn't agonize over it either way. Best solution, buy one of each and see what you prefer. Only real way to find out and you can justify it in the interest of science. ;)

:cool:
Now this is what I love about this forum,; all the little things you pick up when you least expect it:eek: Elliot you da man:D:thumbup:
 
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