GEC Edges

Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Messages
142
Anyone experienced burned edges their GECs? I'm new to them and they were the devil to get sharp. They are beautiful and otherwise well made knives, but I'm leary of obtaining more.
 
No, I just wasn't impressed with the 01 in my GEC Bullnose, very soft and will roll exceptionally easily and didn't hold and edge. On top of easily rusting but knew that trait about 01 before I got it. Everything else about the knife I love though.
 
All three of mine are 1095 of recent manufacture. At first I thought I wasn't going to get along with 1095, then received some from Joe Calton that was a joy.

Went back to grinding on the GECs and after three or four sharpenings, the apex seem to crisp up and stabilize.
 
I found the edge at the heel very soft on my slip joint knives including GECs, presumably due to tempering of the blade tang.
Mine are 1095 and get nice edge otherwise with ease.
I use a diamond stone.
 
I think most all factory edges improve after 1 or more sharpening, but only experienced one severe enough to require major metal removal, it wasn't a gec.
 
I have several (like 12-15) and use them. All 1095. The factory edges have been inconsistent. However, I generally reprofile my edges to 19 deg so that I can touch up on the sharp maker. Once I take the factory edge off, they perform great for me. Get screaming sharp then with use develop to a nice working edge and hold that for plenty long enough. I then just touch up when needed without too much trouble.
 
I absolutely have teudy, but don't let it deter you from getting more. 1095 has no cr or protective elements that resist heat like cobalt. To add to that, you're talking about a pocket scalpel. The thin traditional blades are so susceptible to over heating because there no where for all the heat from manufacturing to go.

I have a congress and a #78, with the congress' warencliff blade I had no problem at all. The 78 needed 4 sharpenings to remove enough metal to get it to stop being gummy. Didn't make me upset or anything, you don't really horse these types of blades but yeah the darn thing would not take an edge and it wouldn't hold up to a little fooling around on a 1/2" thick pine branch.

When you go to fix the issue and sharpen the burnt edge off, dont go back and forth on a stone, go in one direction lift the blade and do it again and do it deliberately and precisely. With a blade so thin any mistake on a stone could require removing a lot of metal

Stick with the brand, theyre a great connection to the past and they're even made with the same machines they used at the turn of the last century; they're a time machine. I got an old traditional from my grandfather when i was a boy and always wondered what it looked like when he got it 50 years ago, brand new out of box and that's what i get to see every time i take one of these out of their little tubes. 1095 is a simple steel so you just have to put up with things like overheating from time to time when they're in a traditional.
 
Thanks Stolenives. I'd read about steels described as "gummy" before and didn't understand until I tried to sharpen my #15. It's all good now, but it was a frustrating experience.
 
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