GEC knife storage and preservation advice please

meako said:
Meanwhile back in reality.
I keep them in Plano tackle boxes that I buy as new as I require. They have adjustable compartments i which I either lay er with the wax paper that comes with or cut up bits of t shirt.
I like this because they are stackable and when I want to CE and CF it's like opening a box of chocolates. Give a regular smidgen of 3 in 1 oil and wipe clean.
Click to expand...

Stealing this idea. Thanks!
 
LastRodeo said:
It is a microsomething wax, it applies very thinly, I have not had any issues like you described, with years of use.
Click to expand...

Ramrodmb said:
No issues at all with Renwax.
It protects far better than any oil in my experience. On steel, bone, wood, stag, everything. Cant recommend it highly enough.
With that said, I use Mothers California Gold Pure Carnauba wax instead of Renwax. Much cheaper and basically the same type of product. It has to be Pure Carnauba wax with NO added cleaners. I could not find it at any local auto stores,(they all had added cleaners) but was easily ordered online.
Click to expand...

Railsplitter said:
No issues here with Renwax either. Just be sure to apply a very thin coat. If you put it on too thick you'll struggle to get it buffed off. You need only apply a thin film. It might not seem like enough but you'll know it is when you buff it off.

The thin film application also ensures that there won't be enough wax to build up in the cracks and crevices. I've never used it on jigged bone so I cannot comment on that.

On another note, I also use Renwax and VCI like LastRodeo mentioned. Quite possibly overkill but the two combined give me piece of mind in knowing that I'm doing all I can to protect my knives.
Click to expand...

I'm a mineral oil guy, but so many people recommend Ren Wax I will give it a shot. Before I buy this stuff, just to clarify, it's not going to remove or dull the blade etch? I'm double checking because I recall reading something about it pulling off the blade etch.
 
cbr1000 said:
I'm a mineral oil guy, but so many people recommend Ren Wax I will give it a shot. Before I buy this stuff, just to clarify, it's not going to remove or dull the blade etch? I'm double checking because I recall reading something about it pulling off the blade etch.
Click to expand...

I have applied Renwax to 1095 carbon steel GEC knives with blade etches and I did not notice any fading or removal of the etch. Having said that, I can't guarantee that it won't happen. Renwax dries very hard and it takes a little effort to buff it off. Not a lot of effort but enough that the pressure needed to buff it off could possibly fade or remove the etch. I don't think the wax itself will remove the etch but the buffing action might. This would likely hold true with just about any type of wax.

I had no problems but I certainly do recommend that you proceed with caution. And again, a very thin coat is the key. It's all that is needed and the less wax applied the less pressure needed to buff it off.

I would also be interested in reading the experience of others on this subject. Thanks for asking.
 
I'm another one for Renwax. If anything, Railsplitter is understating the need to only put on a very thin layer. The first time I used it I loaded up a knife and it was very very difficult to get back off. The stuff goes on and hardens like a rock. Luckily it was just on the scales. It's great stuff, just use a very very little bit and you'll be fine. You can always add more.
 
So do y'all apply thin coat of wax then put up for storage . Or is it apply thin coat , let dry , buff and then put up for storage?
 
Yes just like waxing the car. Apply, let dry, then "buff" (lightly) off.
I put a small amount on a rag and then apply. A toothbrush or toothpick works to get excess out of any cracks/ crevices.
It does not seem to affect the etch on mine.
 
Txjohn said:
So do y'all apply thin coat of wax then put up for storage . Or is it apply thin coat , let dry , buff and then put up for storage?
Click to expand...

I've done both ways. Lately I've been leaving it on (not buffing before storage). I don't have too much trouble with removal, but I apply a very thin coat. I find using mineral oil when I take it off seams to loosen it also. I've had no noticeable issues with the etch diminishing, but if you are applying/removing often, your experience may be different.
 
Renwax comes of easy in an ultrasonic tank with hot water and Dawn. air dry and oil afterwards.
 
meako said:
Maybe place them in tubes with a liberal coating of gun oil,renwax, wrap in clingfilm, place tube in zinc coffin liner ,weld shut and encase in 10metres of reinforced concrete.That'll keep the little rascals safe muuuhaaahhaah.
Click to expand...

I was thinking carbonite.

 
^^^ High entertainment value in that photo, TB!! :thumbup::D:D:thumbup:

- GT
 
For RenWax, I put on a light coat, polish, then a second coat, polish. I use it on bone and stag, no problems. I buff with an old cloth that has a "thick" surface, like a used towel or thick sock. It makes the knife shiny and it gives the steel a smooth feel. That's the only change to the blade.
 
I like and use Renaissance Wax. I bought the 200ml jar about 3 years ago, and I may have used 1/4 of it so far. I had figured it to be a 10-year supply so that's about right. It doesn't take much, just barely dab the cloth into it, wipe it on the knife. It leaves a very thin coating of wax that dries to a haze in like 10 seconds. Then you just buff off with a clean cloth. (I just use a paper towel, but if you are worried about fine scratches I suppose a cloth is better).

I have never noticed it to remove or lighten a blade etch, though it does have some polishing effect so I wouldn't buff a lot on the etched part of the blade, just enough to remove the haze.
 
If I carry a slippy like once or twice a week, do these rules still apply? I'm pretty new to traditionals, and recently picked up a Schrade Fire and Ice in a trade. It's got a pretty good patina on it. How often should I be oiling?
 
I only use Ren wax for long term storage. My users only get a wipe of oil, sometimes not even that.
 
Prior to yesterday I used ballistol oil for long term in tube knives . Knives in rotation usually get mineral oil because I use them for food prep . I switched ballistol for Mircocystalline wax for added security for long term . I have had a couple knives (2) develop pepper spots in the past four years . It is possible that I used mineral oil or didnt oil at all on those examples . Very small percentage of my collection but I'd rather avoid pepper spots / rust all together . I'm less concerned with my users because they all have patina and I check them frequently .
 
The reason I started not buffing before putting a knife into storage was it was easy to identify if I had forgotten to apply Ren wax when eye balling them later.
 
Good to know. I know some people that don't do any management and just use it a ton. So wasn't to sure with an already formed patina.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top