GEC Knives and use?

Bladenoobie1 said:
My GEC #85 intially had a little bit of side to side play. That is because the pin holding together the bolsters and the liners isn't peened or permanently secured in some fashion. If you wrap the bolsters with a piece of leather of thick fabric. Then grab any pair of pliers and squeeze, the play will go away. Sometimes when I strop (I strop over paper and glass) I put too much pressure on the blade causing a tiny bit of wiggle room to form. I just do what I described above and all the play goes away.
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Makes sense... I'll try that. Thanks.
 
I'll second the comment made earlier in that if it's 'proper' hard work, you'll need a fixed blade otherwise slipjoints are fine.

This Farm and Field line of GEC's was designed with hard use in mind. I can thank Leghog for this one, which is my go to for yard work, as it were.



To further prove the point, my father bought this one in 1962 and it has been his only knife until very recently when he bought an SAK for the softer springs. He recently gave it to me. This knife has worked hard. It has great carbon steel and great walk and talk even after more than fifty years of use.



Still worried a carbon steel slipjoint won't be up to it?

Paul
 
OK so I was looking at some more GEC knives and saw on a #68 buckaroo they had the same knife in jig bone Forrest green but one said jig bone A non A and one said jig bone B non B. They were the same price and looked the exact same to me. Any idea what this means?
 
Also is the only difference between the #66 calf Roper and the #68 buckaroo is that the #66 is a serpentine pattern? They are the same size length wise and all and look very similar. Someone school me on this!
 
GEC usually numbers the first portion of a run, and leaves the rest unserialized. It's common for a dealer's site to take pictures of each individual knife when bone or stag covers are used, as each knife will look a little different and this allows a customer to pick the exact knife they like as opposed to picking based on a generic picture. Then they'll label each knife so that they know which one you're ordering. The numbered knives are obviously noted with their numbers, which leaves letters for the unserialized knives. So non A is nonserialized knife A and non B is nonserialized knife B.
 
Bradb4178 said:
Also is the only difference between the #66 calf Roper and the #68 buckaroo is that the #66 is a serpentine pattern? They are the same size length wise and all and look very similar. Someone school me on this!
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Yes, the difference is that the 66 is serpentine whereas the 68 is straight.
 
So I have a question about a gec. I just received a #68 buckaroo and it has slight side to side play in two of the blades and looks like slight chipping in the bone. Did I receive a defective knife or are some like that sometimes
 
Nothing like taking a thread off topic - wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy off topic. There are plenty of threads in this forum about GEC knives and perceived blade play and the dreaded chipped bone covers. Use the heck out of that #68 and then come back and post a picture or pictures of it. No, your knife is not defective.
 
sorry I was the one who started the thread and this is my first gec. I figure I'd ask here since y'all have been helping me.
 
Bradb4178 said:
So I have a question about a gec. I just received a #68 buckaroo and it has slight side to side play in two of the blades and looks like slight chipping in the bone. Did I receive a defective knife or are some like that sometimes
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I agree with Ed. Use it like you stole it for a year, and post some pics of it.
 
I see you already picked up a GEC, so I guess congratulations is in order!

Don't feel like you have to completely cut out modern knives either. I carry a traditional in my back pocket (#15 Crown Lifter - recent birthday gift from the lady) and a modern folder (Benchmade 940 today) in my front pocket. They're both excellent knives, one is just better at some tasks than the other.
 
inheritthefire said:
Don't feel like you have to completely cut out modern knives either. I carry a traditional in my back pocket (#15 Crown Lifter - recent birthday gift from the lady) and a modern folder (Benchmade 940 today) in my front pocket. They're both excellent knives, one is just better at some tasks than the other.
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:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

No kidding! It doesn't have to be all or nothing!

There are SO MANY great knives available to us today it boggles the mind. All shapes, sizes, and prices.

No need to get stuck on labels, either. If you have a knife you like to use, carry it!

Robert
 
It's all good, many carry a traditional paired with a modern. Heck, I think there is a unintentional subculture of "Sebenza's and slip joints" only.
 
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