GEC protruding back spring (UPDATE)

Modoc ED said:
eric ea42 ea42 - Maybe you could use the second picture to tell the OP what part of the blade you are referencing.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the Picture, I appreciate it. I do understand what part he is talking about. Despite being new in the slip joint world I'm a knife fanatic that has been obsessed with knives since I was a kid and understand the interworkings of most knives.
 
Andrew your concerns are definitely justified, it should be flush and can definitely be a sore spot (literally) if it's not. Yes the junction of the run up and the blade back is what I'm talking about. The run up is usually angled in a bit so there's somewhat of a point at that junction that solely comes in contact with the spring. Don't hesitate to do it. If you take just a bit off it won't affect the knife at all and will drop the spring. Just do tiny increments and check the proportions of the open knife at each try. Don't go so far that the blade angles up from the spring in the open position. Sure beats having to think about it every time you see that spring.

For those of you who might be tempted to try this keep in mind that when a blade is open there's a small gap between the flat of the spring that's facing the tang and the flat of the tang underneath it (the back square in the image on the previous page). The spring is trying to rest against that flat but the runup in the blade is preventing this, keeping tension on the spring. Taking a bit off that point on the blade also decreases that gap. If you happen to have a blade that's hooked down a bit in the open position and the spring is proud you might think you have all kinds of material you can take off but you don't. If the spring is very proud and you need to take a lot off you'll either bottom out against the back square or against the runup and either one will drop the tension on the spring and cause a wobbly, tensionless blade in the open position. If it's not fixed with two or three swipes of a file stop. This is only a fix for a slightly protruding spring. Normally when a knife is in pieces this can be remedied by taking some material off the tang corner where the back square meets the round end but you don't have that option on an assembled knife.

Eric
 
ea42 said:
Andrew your concerns are definitely justified, it should be flush and can definitely be a sore spot (literally) if it's not. Yes the junction of the run up and the blade back is what I'm talking about. The run up is usually angled in a bit so there's somewhat of a point at that junction that solely comes in contact with the spring. Don't hesitate to do it. If you take just a bit off it won't affect the knife at all and will drop the spring. Just do tiny increments and check the proportions of the open knife at each try. Don't go so far that the blade angles up from the spring in the open position. Sure beats having to think about it every time you see that spring.

For those of you who might be tempted to try this keep in mind that when a blade is open there's a small gap between the flat of the spring that's facing the tang and the flat of the tang underneath it (the back square in the image on the previous page). The spring is trying to rest against that flat but the runup in the blade is preventing this, keeping tension on the spring. Taking a bit off that point on the blade also decreases that gap. If you happen to have a blade that's hooked down a bit in the open position and the spring is proud you might think you have all kinds of material you can take off but you don't. If the spring is very proud and you need to take a lot off you'll either bottom out against the back square or against the runup and either one will drop the tension on the spring and cause a wobbly, tensionless blade in the open position. If it's not fixed with two or three swipes of a file stop. This is only a fix for a slightly protruding spring. Normally when a knife is in pieces this can be remedied by taking some material off the tang corner where the back square meets the round end but you don't have that option on an assembled knife.

Eric
Click to expand...
Thank you very much! This is super helpful and gives me some confidence. I have one question though, what file should I use for this? I don't have my bastards file and my knife with me right now but I feel like the file is alot thicker than the blade and wont fit in the gap to file down the tang.
 
A small, fine, flat file would be good. A popsicle stick and fine sandpaper would also work but be careful not to get grit down in the joint. I think the best position would be to file it when the blade is closed, or if you have a vise at the half stop with the blade (wrapped in cloth) pointing down in the vise. I know there's not much room in either position so be careful not to hit the handles. You want to file perpendicular to the blade back. Remember you're not hogging off material, just one or two short one inch swipes and then check until you're comfortable with what's coming off. Those two swipes might be all you need.

Eric
 
ea42 said:
A small, fine, flat file would be good. A popsicle stick and fine sandpaper would also work but be careful not to get grit down in the joint. I think the best position would be to file it when the blade is closed, or if you have a vise at the half stop with the blade (wrapped in cloth) pointing down in the vise. I know there's not much room in either position so be careful not to hit the handles. You want to file perpendicular to the blade back. Remember you're not hogging off material, just one or two short one inch swipes and then check until you're comfortable with what's coming off. Those two swipes might be all you need.

Eric
Click to expand...
Thanks Eric, do you have a recommendation or a link to a small, fine, flat file that would be good for this? I don't have anything of the sort.
 
Andrew Echols said:
Thanks Eric, do you have a recommendation or a link to a small, fine, flat file that would be good for this? I don't have anything of the sort.
Click to expand...
I'd do a search for "needle files" they usually come in a pack of assorted shapes and sizes.

Then again, I'm no craftsmen of Eric's caliber - perhaps he has a better suggestion.
 
Andrew Echols said:
Thanks Eric, do you have a recommendation or a link to a small, fine, flat file that would be good for this? I don't have anything of the sort.
Click to expand...


Something like this would be fine;


20240118_181614.jpg

Say if you'd like me to have a look at it shoot me an email at ealbers@hvc.rr.com.
It'll save you the trouble of having to buy a file. Just cover the shipping.

Eric
 
Andrew Echols said:
Thanks for you input, that is useful to know. Don't think I'm gonna sell it though. To get a GEC I want I'd have to sell it for $70+ more than I bought it for or pay more and I'm not interested in either.
Click to expand...
OR.....hang on to it for 10 years...when the C in GEC stands for something else but the E is deffo Eastern...and the dried bones of the flippers lie bleaching in the baking sun half buried in the burning sand.....young newbies will ask you how you were able to attain such a rare beautiful gem....🤙👍
 
meako said:
OR.....hang on to it for 10 years...when the C in GEC stands for something else but the E is deffo Eastern...and the dried bones of the flippers lie bleaching in the baking sun half buried in the burning sand.....young newbies will ask you how you were able to attain such a rare beautiful gem....🤙👍
Click to expand...
Hahaha I love this! Amazing.
 
GEC sands the backspring area flush with the blade in the CLOSED position.... I assume this is for the protection of the blade.... if the tang lobes were All Equidistant to the centerline of the pivot pin, then the backspring would be positioned the same as the blade is indexed.......

I have a few hundred GEC knives.... Some are flush at open and some aren't..... It's the way they are built and it is an acceptable variation for me....
 
Whereas I would expect the spring to be flush in all 3 positions, on any knife, I have some GECs that are not. They are all pretty flush in the closed position.

The only ones that have been consistently flush in all 3 positions, for me, were the 71 F&F models.
I believe that being a model made regularly for many years they know how to make it well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top