general question for somebody who might want to go full time in the long run.

[JZknives]

These questions will be sort of at random so bare with me here. If you know the answer to a particular question and dont feel like adressing the other ones , feel free to do just that.

- The most important question I have is more of a psychological question. Do bladesmiths often feel like quitting alot? I feel like every time I finish a knife im extremely happy and proud of myself but when i get back to starting a new knife it feels like tedious and frustrating. About to the time where i get to the handle making , edge grinding , sharpening and other things is where I start to enjoy myself. Is this normal and something im going to have to deal with ? Should I invest in tools to make the things I hate go more faster like a band saw or oxy torch?

- Dust. I have basically no dust system in my house and im doing work out of an old workshop in the basement. Im worried that the dust is going to damage the furnace or other parts of the houses heating / air system. If im going to do this in the long run would a workshop seperate from the house be a good idea? If not what should I do?

- Dust part 2. I purchased a 3m respirator and it was great for a little bit. But it was cheap and the strap hole for it broke and is not repairable. On top of this fact It often made breathing a massive pain in the butt when using it for a long period. I have looked online and there are lots of different types of respirators. Are there any really preferable respirators over all others for periods of long use? I know there are respirators that have their own air supply and stuff and want an opinion if a expensive respirator that will last a long time is better than a dinky one.

- Grinder. I know this is a hotly debated issue but while I want to keep expenses to a minimum , sometimes cost is worth it. I have had people tell me the grizzly is great and have used it in person and it is great. But what would a move up to a more serious machine give me the ability to do that the grizzly cannot? Also what are some of the favorite belt brands that last the longest or are the best bang for the buck.

-Buffer. I love having a gleaming knife and have never actually had a legit scratchless knife. I understand you need a pretty high powered buffer to achieve this. What im worried about is safety. I am always cautious with my tools but sometimes I get lazy. Im aware that out of all the tools in a knife shop the one you dont want to have an accient with is the buffer (flying knives). Are there alternative tools that could do the same job with less of a safety risk? I saw a video on youtube of those guys in nepal who make kukris using electric angle buffers/sanders to achieve a mirror finish. Would this be a good alternative? If so any tips on what I should get.

- Heat treating. I recently sent off my first batch of knives and It cost quite alot of money to ship/have done/ship back. Is getting a heat treat oven a good investment? If so is there a favorite? I really would prefer not to use my forge because i like to use some stainless steels.

- Milling machine. I really like making bolsters and guards for my knives. But using a file and or bandsaw seems tedious for this purpose. I know a milling machine will do the job and make a perfect fitting guard every time but out of all the tools you can purchase , milling machines are the most expensive (because of all the bits). Is there a cost effective way to make a (perfect) slot in a piece of stock without dropping a grand on a milling machine? Or should a milling machine be a good investment for the shop?

 

[Marko3]

Seeing I started making knives about a year ago and a lot of this stuff is fresh for me.

1. Respirater. You should buy good one's. I'm a painting contractor by trade and I buy full face mask . But anything is better than nothing.

2. Grinder. I started with a wood beltsander first and worked my way up to my Wilton Square Wheel. Buy what you can afford but get 2x72 for sure.

3. For me I like doing most everything about making a knife. If there was something I could complain about it would be the dust from Micarta.

I have no illusions of being a full time maker but plenty of people do it. When you are new to something it is best to pick up things as you go. I have a knack of finding what I need in the secondary market like Craiglist and yardsales and friends. I have found drill presses two box kilns and a anvil. I'm sure more people will chime in.

good luck

Mark

 

[james terrio]

...Do bladesmiths often feel like quitting alot?...

It's a long way to the top if you want to rock'n'roll, and if it was easy everybody would do it.

If you need to make knives, nothing will stop you.

If you think you might, kinda, maybe, want to make knives, someday, sort of as a hobby, maybe one day for profit, or maybe not... everything will stop you. Don't waste your time.

 

[Patrice Lemée]

Do bladesmiths often feel like quitting a lot?

All the time! Of course it is not really about quitting, I'd say more ups and downs. But as long as you feel the overall quality of your knives improving you continue to slug along. And the "crap that turned out good" moments also help you forget the bad times.

 

[JZknives]

All the time! Of course it is not really about quitting, I'd say more ups and downs. But as long as you feel the overall quality of your knives improving you continue to slug along. And the "crap that turned out good" moments also help you forget the bad times.

okay this is good to hear !

 

[Salem Straub]

I'll write some answers and thoughts of mine in red.

- The most important question I have is more of a psychological question. Do bladesmiths often feel like quitting alot? I feel like every time I finish a knife im extremely happy and proud of myself but when i get back to starting a new knife it feels like tedious and frustrating. About to the time where i get to the handle making , edge grinding , sharpening and other things is where I start to enjoy myself. Is this normal and something im going to have to deal with ? Should I invest in tools to make the things I hate go more faster like a band saw or oxy torch?
You will enjoy some aspects more than others. I've not thought about quitting since I started, but I certainly have been guilty of shirking the less enjoyable tasks until I HAVE to do them. Investing in the core tools of your shop will improve morale. A good grinder most of all.

- Dust. I have basically no dust system in my house and im doing work out of an old workshop in the basement. Im worried that the dust is going to damage the furnace or other parts of the houses heating / air system. If im going to do this in the long run would a workshop seperate from the house be a good idea? If not what should I do? Yes, a separate workshop is a good idea. Dust collection, regular sweeping, and an air filter fan would help until then, as well as afterwards.

- Dust part 2. I purchased a 3m respirator and it was great for a little bit. But it was cheap and the strap hole for it broke and is not repairable. On top of this fact It often made breathing a massive pain in the butt when using it for a long period. I have looked online and there are lots of different types of respirators. Are there any really preferable respirators over all others for periods of long use? I know there are respirators that have their own air supply and stuff and want an opinion if a expensive respirator that will last a long time is better than a dinky one.
I just use a 3M half face filter. Using compressed air to blow out the fabric pre-filters helps them breathe, but the cartridges will have to replaced from time to time.

- Grinder. I know this is a hotly debated issue but while I want to keep expenses to a minimum , sometimes cost is worth it. I have had people tell me the grizzly is great and have used it in person and it is great. But what would a move up to a more serious machine give me the ability to do that the grizzly cannot? Also what are some of the favorite belt brands that last the longest or are the best bang for the buck.
I would take exception to the Grizzly being great. Depends on what you compare it to. A better grinder will allow you to hollow grind, flat grind, and shape handles more effectively and without burning everything at high speed, as well as use small wheels, etc. More than anything else, putting your shop money into a good grinder will improve your work, and boost your production. When you get that grinder, then research the belts.

-Buffer. I love having a gleaming knife and have never actually had a legit scratchless knife. I understand you need a pretty high powered buffer to achieve this. What im worried about is safety. I am always cautious with my tools but sometimes I get lazy. Im aware that out of all the tools in a knife shop the one you dont want to have an accient with is the buffer (flying knives). Are there alternative tools that could do the same job with less of a safety risk? I saw a video on youtube of those guys in nepal who make kukris using electric angle buffers/sanders to achieve a mirror finish. Would this be a good alternative? If so any tips on what I should get.
A powerful buffer is not necessary for a nice mirror finish. You can use cork belts and rouge on the grinder, followed by light buffing with a loose wheel and get a good finish. You can hand sand up to 2000 and buff lightly for a nice mirror with crisp lines, too. Correct grinding and buffing procedure and a 1/2 horse buffer made from a bench grinder will get you farther than impatience or brute force, and a 3 hp. Baldor.


- Heat treating. I recently sent off my first batch of knives and It cost quite alot of money to ship/have done/ship back. Is getting a heat treat oven a good investment? If so is there a favorite? I really would prefer not to use my forge because i like to use some stainless steels.
After you get a grinder and a metal cutting bandsaw of some sort, I'd say invest in that if you feel it's time. Shop around for HTing prices, and send in quantity to make it worthwhile.

- Milling machine. I really like making bolsters and guards for my knives. But using a file and or bandsaw seems tedious for this purpose. I know a milling machine will do the job and make a perfect fitting guard every time but out of all the tools you can purchase , milling machines are the most expensive (because of all the bits). Is there a cost effective way to make a (perfect) slot in a piece of stock without dropping a grand on a milling machine? Or should a milling machine be a good investment for the shop?
Great guard slots can be made in a reasonable amount of time by the old "drill a web of holes, file them connected and square" method. A guard slotted by bandsawing to a drilled hole goes very quickly. A mill is not a guarantee of a perfect fitting guard, or a fast job of it. With practice and the right cutters it's very nice to have a mill, but I wouldn't put one in my list of core knife shop necessities, which would probably be: drill press, grinder, metal bandsaw, buffer, wood bandsaw. In that order.

 

[JZknives]

^ thank you very much , very good info

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Salem really summed it up, I agree with everything.

Practice a lot and there really are no shortcuts.

 

[clockworkfish]

i happened to luck out and get a kiln for free (won an art store sweepstakes for just walking in, go figure) and i have to say that if you want to really dive in and study metalurgy and all its mysteries it is very very very worth it.

I have a grizzly and not a super fancy belt sander and it does the job quite well, really cannot go wrong with it for the price. That being said i am starting to see the perks of having a good belt sander, the main thing for me would be the ability to control the speed of the belt which would prevent overheating of whatever material you use. Though my concern with one would be the fact that they are often open and would be harder to get rid of the dust. With a grizzly, i assume its the 1X30 we are talking about, you can hook a shop vac to the side which greatttttlyy reduces dust.

As far as dust goes a shop vac is fine, a fan in a window also works wonders, a dust collection system is also one of those things that if you really want to get into knife making would likely be a good investment. As for a respirator half mask works great, as long as it fits your face! Again, it would not hurt at all to have a fancier respirator.

Lastly as of right now knives are often all i think about and i cannot stop thinking about them so one day id like to go full time. My main curiosity is how hard is it to stay afloat financially with knife making, figure its one of those you need to work hard and have good pr to get to the top top of the industry, but inbetween is it ridiculously hard? or just similar to being a poor college student with access to fancy fun toys?

 

[Mudbug007]

- The most important question I have is more of a psychological question. Do bladesmiths often feel like quitting alot? I feel like every time I finish a knife im extremely happy and proud of myself but when i get back to starting a new knife it feels like tedious and frustrating.

Then more than likely, this will only get worse if/when you go full time. Once "you have" to do something, a lot of the enjoyment will leave. I've turned two hobbies into small businesses and grew to loath both because I "had" to do it in order to eat and pay bills.

- Dust. I have basically no dust system in my house and im doing work out of an old workshop in the basement. Im worried that the dust is going to damage the furnace or other parts of the houses heating / air system. If im going to do this in the long run would a workshop seperate from the house be a good idea? If not what should I do?

Yes a separate workshop would be ideal. And yes, all that dust in your basement will not be healthy for your HVAC units nor your family.

- Dust part 2. I purchased a 3m respirator and it was great for a little bit. But it was cheap and the strap hole for it broke and is not repairable.

I use a 3M 7500 series and it's a good one. Just make sure you keep clean filters in it.

- Grinder. I know this is a hotly debated issue but while I want to keep expenses to a minimum , sometimes cost is worth it. I have had people tell me the grizzly is great and have used it in person and it is great. But what would a move up to a more serious machine give me the ability to do that the grizzly cannot? Also what are some of the favorite belt brands that last the longest or are the best bang for the buck.

If you can save up enough for a Grizzly, you can save up enough for a serious grinder. A Grizzly will not have variable speed like many other 2x72 grinders. You'll find that with the fast speed of the Grizzly, you'll make mistakes much quicker, often before you realize you've made one. If you're going to be a serious knife maker, get a serious grinder.

-Buffer. I love having a gleaming knife and have never actually had a legit scratchless knife. I understand you need a pretty high powered buffer to achieve this. What im worried about is safety. I am always cautious with my tools but sometimes I get lazy. Im aware that out of all the tools in a knife shop the one you dont want to have an accient with is the buffer (flying knives). Are there alternative tools that could do the same job with less of a safety risk?

Actually, IMHO, your knife should be 'scratchless' before heading to a buffer. I wouldn't want to use a buffer to remove scratches. I only use one for final polishing. I made my own from a slow speed grinder from Woodcraft. You have to have patience with it, but it's nice and slow.

- Heat treating. I recently sent off my first batch of knives and It cost quite alot of money to ship/have done/ship back. Is getting a heat treat oven a good investment? If so is there a favorite? I really would prefer not to use my forge because i like to use some stainless steels.

I think a heat treat oven is a must if you really want to get into knife making. It's one thing to send off a few stainless or high alloy blades every once in a while, but having to send all your work seems like a lot more hassle than what it's worth. Personally I feel that a maker should know how to HT the steel they want to use. Plus there's something to be said for having the convenience of HT a blade in your shop.

- Milling machine. I really like making bolsters and guards for my knives. But using a file and or bandsaw seems tedious for this purpose. I know a milling machine will do the job and make a perfect fitting guard every time but out of all the tools you can purchase , milling machines are the most expensive (because of all the bits). Is there a cost effective way to make a (perfect) slot in a piece of stock without dropping a grand on a milling machine? Or should a milling machine be a good investment for the shop?

Can't help you on this one. I'm still using saws and files for fitting! But once you get established, a small mill to do jobs like this can't hurt if you have the skill to use one properly.

 

[SteelSlaver]

A 2x72 of the KMG has another huge advantage over machines like the Grizzly and that is adaptability. Being able to use the small wheel atachment is a big plus as is quickly going from a wheel to a platen.


If you were to be full time a HT oven would pay for itself and the wait time drops to HT time and during temper time you can work other projects.

I use my small 3/4hp buffer less and less. Buffing don't make up for a poor grind and sanding job, It will just make shiny scratches.

I am not full time, but am looking to supplement my retirement coming soon. Just as a part time I sometimes feel frustration, getting grinds to match up up, fitting guard etc, can get tedious. But, as the thrill of seeing the knives develop and then finished more than overcomes any frustrations.

My mill is a handy dandy. Slotting guards making pieces absolutely flat and parallel, the more I use it the more I find I can do with it. A decent mill is worth the money. If you have no experience with a mill there is a learning curve that will cost you some screwed up material and cutters. Read a lot and practice making stuff. Don't regret my purchase. Tooling, etc. will add up to as much or more than the mill itself. You are looking at $2-3000 unless you find a good used deal with tooling.

I wouldn't consider going full time until I had a good basic setup and some inventory of steel, handle material and consumables.

 

[JZknives]

You guys are helping out a lot with these answers I really do appreciate it. Anybody have more info on respirators? Are the full face masks impact rated like safety goggles?

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

I like the 3M 6000 series of full face respirators. I'm not sure on impact rating but it is great for keeping sparks and metal slivers out of the eyes. After using a full face I'll never go back to a half face.

One thing is that you want lots of fresh air, maybe you can put the grinder on a cart or get some blower fans going. I just set up my dust collector and fumes/small particles are still an issue, I grind with my shop doors open half the time.

Take your knives to 2000 grit; a piece of leather and compound will bring them to a mirror finish by hand in no time. Once you rely on a buffer to clean scratches you will wash out your crisp lines. I call that the "polished turd" look, lol that is just my personal preference though. There is nothing wrong with a buffer but I wouldn't use it much. Be careful too, they are very dangerous.

Buy a load of belts and steel, experience helps the most!

Good luck with everything!

 

[Fiddleback]

A few points without quoting you.

1. Knifemaking isn't easy work. There are more efficient ways to make a living. Its gotta be a labor of love. You seem to have what it takes in that regard.

2. Knifemakers fight a war on dust. Or, they live in/with it. It will put a hurting on your furnace, and if you have a return in the space, it is going to spread the dust throughout the home.
----You said your workshop was in your basement. Your homeowners insurance will call your situation gross negligence, and deny claims based on this. So eventually, a seperate shop is a good idea especially because of the fire hazard of the dusts and oils, etc.

3. I use a 3M 6000 full face respirator. I like not having to look for my goggles, and no dust in the eyes is a big plus. The straps wear out and break, the filters clog. Its expensive, and really not pleasurable to wear.

4. The Grizzly grinder does not allow you to use attachments, and that is a huge negative from day 1. Its for hobby folk, not full timers.

5. I've been bit by a buffer, and don't have one in the shop. YMMV.

6. Heat treat your own steel. Its good steel knowledge you will need. Big batches sent out is a big plus, but you still need to be able to HT prototypes, etc.

7. Milling Machines make me happy. I don't have one yet, and make almost 800 knives a year. You need it when you get to folders, but until then, you can go without.

 

[Salem Straub]

Let me clarify that I only include a buffer on my list of essentials for polishing fittings and handles... I could easily do without one for blades.

 

[JZknives]

you guys are a great help